You may be familiar with Loro Piana’s CashDenim series. While CashDenim pieces look exactly like traditional denim, the brand has transformed the hand feel of the hardy material by infusing precious cashmere. This not only gives the resulting fabric a luxuriously soft touch, it also enhances the durability of denim with the added boon of heat-retaining properties without making the wearer feel the heat. Basically, CashDenim is denim made better.
Denim has been around for centuries and the advancement of fabric technologies has allowed it to take on forms that previously would have been unthinkable. CashDenim is relatively new, having been launched in 2022, and is a fine example of brands experimenting with denim in new ways.
This season, Berluti introduces a speckled Canadian tuxedo crafted with cotton-silk-infused denim for a deceptively hefty piece—you wouldn’t necessarily be able to feel the silk by touch but there’s a marked difference in weight. Prada’s all-denim looks for Autumn/Winter 2024 are some of the thinnest manipulations of the fabric we’ve ever experienced that they almost seem un-denim-like.
While it’s not exactly tweaking the composition or make of denim like the others are doing, Kenzo deserves special mention for creating denim that appears almost like jacquard. Cleverly making use of contrast topstitching, a full denim look is decorated with a “Kenzo Star Tiger” motif that looks incredibly elaborate.
If it isn’t already apparent, luxury is more than that visual appeal at the very first glance. While bold, striking colours and designs are undoubtedly special, the feel of a piece of ready-to-wear evokes that same kind of experience that luxury fashion should provide. If you’re shelling out upwards of four figures for an outerwear, it better feel every bit as special as it’s made out to be.
Textural pieces are emphasised this season through technical explorations of craft as well as materiality. Fendi’s slew of outerwear ranging from zip-up jackets to knee-length coats have an almost homespun slant with textures that look and feel plush. A plaid coat amps up the tactile experience with raglan sleeves of a contrasting texture from its bodice. Chunky cable knits by Tod’s employ the use of different colours as an example of elevated knitting techniques—they’re also trimmed with contrasting ribbing for added tactility.
What appeared like pony hair on the Hermès runway turns out to be calfskin upon closer inspection. The calfskins used are heavily polished to effect a beautiful pony hair-like sheen that catches light with every movement. And of course, they feel as decadent as they look—all for the wearer to experience and appreciate fashion on a more sensory level.
It was earlier this year on award show red carpets that lapel pins and brooches suddenly became a trend among Hollywood celebrity stylists. Almost every single male celebrity sported a version of one, pairing it with all manner of tailoring.
The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections are rife with brooches and they’re mostly grandmother-like in nature. You know what we’re talking about—those impossibly bold ’90s designs in shades of gold that our grandmothers used to hold two ends of a scarf together or simply as a piece of statement jewellery to complete an evening jacket. Hey, who said anything about brooches and pins being for a specific gender anyway?
Dolce&Gabbana had a multitude of variations attached to almost every look in its monochromatic collection, while Emporio Armani’s more subdued versions are used to finish relaxed tailoring. In true grandmother fashion, Fendi replaced button fastenings with bejewelled FF brooches as a way of securing coats and cardigans.
Jewellery in menswear has become more prevalent. It’s not unusual to finish an outfit with rings or earrings or even necklaces. The addition of a brooch is a long time coming, and who doesn’t love more options to play around with?
Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere is a marvel in that not only is the brand committed to keeping it fully traceable, the fabrics resulting from it are testament to Zegna’s mastery in innovation. The Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection employs the use of Oasi Cashmere in myriad ways, pushing the limits of cashmere’s use beyond the traditional.
Cashmere over cashmere over cashmere are layered to create monochromatic looks that protect, while reinforcing the idea of luxurious preciousness. They’re shaped into multi-melange cashmere tops and sweaters, cashmere suiting as well as cashmere-backed plongé leather. The latter may seem visually hefty, but are mind-blowingly lightweight in feel. It helps too that Oasi Cashmere benefits from artistic director Alessandro Sartori’s billowy and oversized silhouettes that serve to showcase the material in the best ways possible.
What’s especially evident—and has since become a running theme at Zegna—is that the pieces are timeless in nature. The heavily layered looks are easily broken down to individual pieces that can then be paired with garments from previous as well as upcoming collections. Investments are only as good as their returns and you’d be rest assured that these are definitely every bit bang for your buck.
One would think that with increased digitalisation, the need for bags would become obsolete. But instead, they’re getting bigger than ever. We’ve reached the other end of the spectrum when it comes to bags—it was only a few years ago when bags that could hardly fit a pair of AirPods were a thing.
Thankfully, capacious bags are more functional. If you think about it, they actually make sense for the multifaceted lifestyles that we lead. Whether we’re working from just about anywhere aside from the office, or cram our after-office hours with fitness classes (and more work), a bag that fits in all that’s needed makes a worthy investment.
Balenciaga’s nifty offering is the Bel Air XL Carry All bag that’s designed with a wide front pocket and an incredibly roomy main compartment with two zipped pockets and two flat pockets on the inside. The generous handle drop is non-adjustable but it allows for shoulder as well as hand carry. Gucci’s more traditional shape—you could easily bring this to the office—comes with an extra adjustable shoulder strap. The tote bag in question is crafted in leather that gives its structured shape but is as soft as it is sturdy (as evident from the how the models carried them on the runway).
For part one of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.
A new fashion season often welcomes the introduction of new ideas and fresh perspectives on dressing, even in the simplest details. The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections aren’t any different especially as the industry at large is currently experiencing a slowdown.
There’s a constant conundrum in fashion season after season. As much as brands continuously take creative licenses in seasonal collections—collaborating with a slew of artists, materialising new silhouettes, and crafting interesting narratives—familiarity and wearability are most often paramount to the general consumer. It’s apparent that since the resurgence of minimalism (guised as “quiet luxury”) there’s a growing mindful approach to fashion where appeal goes deeper than first-glance statements.
The slew of menswear collections for the Autumn/Winter 2024 season reflect a more concerted effort at balancing creativity with tried-and-tested staples. However, the offerings aren’t as pared back as Autumn/Winter 2023 when “quiet luxury” was at its peak. There are considered inflexions of more showy displays of techniques and craftsmanship, especially by luxury fashion brands. And even the simpler forms aren’t exactly what they seem.
Love it or hate it, streetwear’s reign within the luxury fashion context has most definitely come to its inevitable end. Streetwear-centric garments, however, have grown to be such quintessential elements of menswear that you’d find them in a variety of iterations across all levels of fashion retail hierarchy.
The pullover hoodie is given due focus this season. No, this isn’t your average go-to that’s become part of your airport fit or the one you’d grab for date nights at the movie theatre. The Autumn/Winter 2024 versions are generally devoid of any graphics or embellishments yet make for strong statements just based on materiality alone. Take for example Burberry’s offerings in super supple leather that even the keenest of eyes could easily mistake for nylon hoodies. Loewe takes it up a notch with leather iterations that reach all the way to the thighs, complete with ribbed trims. Pushing the envelope further, McQueen serves up hoodies that are almost far removed from what you’d expect of a hoodie while still remaining wearable.
For the more pragmatic, Coach’s cotton versions are cut long with a raw edge—and finished with tasteful distressing around the hood—perfect for layering. Or opt for Wooyoungmi’s self-tie hoodie for a piece marked by a style detail that’s effortless and chic.
At Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson’s continued exploration of the parallels between art and fashion has led to a collaboration with American artist Richard Hawkins. Known for his collages that focus on the male body and its portrayals across many different types of media—including fantasised celebrity porn–Hawkins was given carte blanche to create original artworks for the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
Hawkins employed the use of an AI script to assist in generating the collages before turning them into paintings. The painted collages are then further broken down and are effectively snippets as they’re translated onto pieces in the collection in true Loewe form. The works are crafted as jacquards and prints on knitwear, while they’re recreated as stunning beaded embellishments on supersized Squeeze bags for men. In certain pieces, different permutations of embroidery, leather marquetry, glass studs, and fringes are paired together to further emphasise the collage nature of Hawkins’ work.
One may be immediately drawn by the male bodies in the artworks, but on closer inspection, the different layers within each collage become more apparent. The disparate elements—messages and graphics—echo the combination of visuals that we’re inundated with on a daily basis and how that informs our reality in some shape or form.
Work-from-home arrangements and the loosening of office dress codes for a majority of industries may be the norm now, but fashion refuses to let ties die. And let’s face it, ties will never really go out of style.
As though in defiance of societal norms (how very fashion), corporate dressing is increasingly gaining traction. It’s almost human nature that we often tend to eagerly act in reverse to convention; we don’t want to abide by strict dress codes but rather have the freedom to do so whenever we feel like it. Ties take centre stage in this wrestle for control as corporate-esque outfits are built around the once-powerful accessory.
Prada’s entire Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection revolves around the idea of corporatewear, splicing them with the desire to escape the confines of the office. Silk ties are the connecting thread that, well, ties the entire collection together as they’re paired with trompe l’œil shirting (some are actually made of Re-Nylon) and trousers attached with leather belts.
Saint Laurent and Sean Suen both reference the past with silhouettes that nod to when ties were a hallmark of traditional menswear. The former has brought back wide ties to match the equally wide lapels of its blazers, while Sean Suen’s printed versions stand out against reimagined classics.
As corporate dress makes a menswear comeback (or “corpcore” as the kids call it these days), you’d be able to find pinstripes in just about every single Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. At its most classic, like at Brunello Cucinelli, the pattern is used as a way of lengthening the overall look of the brand’s double-breasted offerings, while CELINE’s three-piece pinstripe suit gives off the vibe of a menacing mob boss.
Yet, where pinstripes truly make a renewed difference are on atypical pieces far removed from its tailored heritage. Dior Men takes the lead in this approach. The House’s pinstripe creations take on forms that resemble more workwear-inspired pieces. There are pinstripe suiting and coats, but there are also overalls and rompers completely dressed in pinstripes. The pattern immediately imbues these pieces with a sense of sartorial formality that elevates the entire look, especially when worn with more louche pairings within the collection.
There’s also an attempt at making pinstripes somewhat sexy. Burberry’s roomy cut suiting are irreverently worn sans an inner layer or with a deep V-neck sweater, while Onitsuka Tiger opts for a deconstructed knit collar with its modern interpretation of a pinstripe suit.
