The first thing anyone would have noticed at the Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 runway show—apart from the beautiful projections of horses galloping—were the models. And not that they're unusually more attractiveor that there's quite a diverse cast (it's de rigueur for the brand), but rather, it's the fact that they're smiling. It's a known fact that models don't typically smile on the runway; any other facial expression apart from a neutral one is considered distracting. But at the Emporio Armani show, the smiles added so much more levity and underscored the ease of the collection.
Mr Armani intended to capture an escape from the limitations of city living, running off out into nature in pieces that reflected a nuanced combination of the two. The colours graduated from muted shades of wheat, sand and the like before hitting a crescendo of purple hues brought about by lavender fields. But just how much freedom was Mr Armani looking to convey? Well, let's just say that the finale was rather spirited pairings of a man and a woman—the latter a vision of spring's boldest hues. The Emporio Armani man accompanied her, dressed in nothing a pair of leather shorts matched with a leather harness, boots, and at times carrying a basket of lavender blooms.
The fit: There's no doubt that the Armani aesthetic worked exceptionally well here—no other silhouette speaks to the airiness and lightness of freedom as the Armani look. Shoulders are dropped across the board while trousers (Mr Armani introduced high-waisted variations with their top folded over) billow with every slight movement, giving air a temporary visual presence. Layering was kept to a minimal (at most an inner layer over lightweight outerwear) with bare skin being quite an important element for the season. It's not done in any vulgar way however, but rather a complement to the act of being one with nature.
The details: Leather harnesses and waists cinched with triple-tour belts (or what looked like a belt-over-belt-over-belt situation) added equestrian elements that juxtaposed the overall airiness of the collection. Sure, you'd think everything would be loose and unrestraint for a collection that's all about freedom. But therein lies a beauty in reining in—some stylistic tension is always the mark of a genius. And speaking of genius, Mr Armani is also all about the details and I spotted a tunic with stunning trimming along its front that added such fine, luxury craftsmanship.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3's super relaxed vibe topped off with strings of unrefined stones as a necklace; a look consisting of an oversized white suit decorated at random with raw edged holes; and look 65's masterful pairing of monochromatic hues.
The takeaway: An Italian Western love story of spring and its bountiful harvest of colours and freedom.
View some looks from the Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
It was one of the colder nights in Milan this entire Milan Fashion Week Men's and serendipitously, it was as though Giorgio Armani himself summoned the cold. Because right at the Armani/Teatro, the Emporio Armani Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection took centrestage. A makeshift lighthouse sat at the very end of the theatre space, while the floors filled with a light-play resembling waves.
When the space turned dark, it was then that the lighthouse lit up. And with it, the collection was revealed—like a gathering of ships making their way to the same destination where the Emporio Armani man and his decadent lifestyle belong.
The fit: The inspiration was clear from the very start. A military-inspired coat hung broad and oversized on the shoulders and on the model's head, a sailor hat stylised and trimmed in white. Then came more literal interpretations of all things nautical—from Breton stripe-esque jumpers to sailor collars branded with Emporio Armani at the back. And they're all swathed in navy too, both a nod to the inspiration as well as an iconic Emporio Armani hue.
Then it transitioned to the collection's ski offerings drenched in stark white with puffers and ski trousers designed with embossed lines. The nautical references were pared back as the collection transitioned into its more formal pieces. Classic Armani tailoring—that unmistakably languid and roomy construction—was topped off with scarf ties and delicate draping that recalled calm waves.
The details: The collection's footwear grounded each look. Chunky and almost heavily constructed, one of the standouts included calf-high boots crafted with supple uppers that pooled to create beautiful, naturally set draping. They looked like reimagined wellies, if you will.
What immediately took my breath away was the use of embroidery. Even from where I sat, the embellishments looked exceptionally executed. They resembled coral with a range of starburst shapes and colours, and employed on a number of denim as well as wool coats—the juxtaposition worked really well.
Three exceptional looks: Look 8's multi-layered outerwear was a stunning execution of form and function; the many details apparent in look 24 that requires multiple examinations; and look 92's sparkly overshirt that's an update on an Armani classic.
The takeaway: Even approaching his 70th birthday, Giorgio Armani's steely resolve on his design aesthetic and style still hasn't waned.
View the full Emporio Armani Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
