Although haute couture was largely controlled by men since its beginning in the 17th century, it has always been regarded as part of the women’s universe—even if men’s fashion during the time had just about the same level of intricacy as women’s. Haute couture has often been in reference to the elaborate court dresses that only master tailors were allowed to produce for noblewomen, while couturières (female designers) could only work on casual dress.
Societal shifts have further segmented fashion terminologies in the present day. Haute couture—while still remaining a male-dominated sector—largely deals with custom pieces for women; the closest male equivalent would be Savile Row’s bespoke tailoring, which, while employing a similar level of custom tailoring, is arguably less labour intensive and intricate than haute couture.
At Dior Men, artistic director Kim Jones’ constant deep dives into the house’s couture heritage have culminated in his first collection of couture pieces for men. Shown during the Rudolf Nureyev-inspired Winter 2024 runway show, the haute couture pieces closed as nods to the ballet dancer’s more flamboyant persona. Familiar menswear silhouettes that reflect nuances of movement and sport are handcrafted with embroideries (inspired by archive ball gowns) and employ the use of traditional techniques.
A silk crepe kimono closed the show. Worn over a romper, it’s one of a few pieces in the collection that was inspired by Nureyev’s collection of vintage textiles and clothing. The particular piece features embroidered tulle ribbons treated in a gradation of hues that seem to endlessly journey throughout the kimono. A silk organza top using the same application is found in a prior look, its sheerness displaying the detailed artistry as the ribbons appear to float and dance around the torso.
It’s fair to say that while the Winter 2024 collection marks Jones’ first haute couture collection for Dior Men, he’s no stranger to adapting couture techniques in past ready-to-wear collections. It’s difficult not to—Dior’s haute couture heritage runs deep with iconic haute couture creations still being referenced by designers within and beyond the house. And if anyone could make men’s haute couture part of the mainstream, it’s Jones.
When TOMORROW X TOGETHER made their way to Paris for the closing of the Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2024 show season in January this year, they were given the complete Dior experience. The quintet did the usual touristy things—visiting the Louvre and strolling around the Seine—but also had the opportunity to visit La Galerie Dior, the exhibition space located within the House's iconic 30 Avenue Montaigne address.
Throughout their adventures around Paris, TOMORROW X TOGETHER were dressed completely in Dior Men, ranging from artistic director Kim Jones' more casual streetwear-leaning proposals to impeccable tailoring that stayed true to the haute couture spirit of the House. The latter was on elegant display as the group entered (to a cacophony of screams and camera clicks, no less) the show space of the Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show at Paris' École Militaire in the city's seventh arrondissement.
TOMORROW X TOGETHER's outfits were a calculated move, both by the group as well as the House. Tapping on his own personal experiences and roots—as he often does time and time again at Dior Men—Jones' inspiration for the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection revolved around the perceived reality of a ballet dancer's life versus the actual reality of it. The ballet dancer in question is Soviet-born Rudolf Nureyev, one of the most renowned male ballet dancers in the world and just so happens to be a friend of Jones' uncle, photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones.
Before delving deeper into the inspiration behind the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection, it's important to note that the very beginnings of the collection was an exploration of Monsieur Dior's own relationship with ballet. English ballerina Margot Fonteyn is said to have first discovered the house of Dior in 1948 while on a trip to Paris and became a fan of its creations. A friendship with Monsieur Dior naturally developed and Fonteyn often chose to wear Dior on numerous occasions.
This is where an almost unbelievable happenstance begins. Fonteyn's most famous dance partner is none other than Nureyev—effectively linking Monsieur Dior and Jones in the most amazing way.
"When Colin became a photographer, he maintained strong links to the ballet world and, in 1966, Time Life asked him to document a day in the life of Nureyev, regarded by some as the greatest male ballet dancer of his generation. Bonded through their shared history and mutual sense of fun and mischief, the pair went on to forge a great friendship," explains Jones.
The resulting Dior Men Winter 2024 is one of contrasts: the difference between ready-to-wear and couture, between onstage and backstage, and between the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. "Here, it is a meeting of the dancer's style with that of the Dior archive," expresses Jones.
There's no doubt that Jones is already more than familiar with crafting from points of contrasts. His oeuvre at Dior Men has always been merging elegant signatures from the archives with contemporary stylings. The Winter 2024 collection takes references from Saint Laurent's time at Dior, translating the late designer's tailored volumes, vents, pleats and necklines. The iconic Bar jacket created by Monsieur Dior is contextualised once again, this time, combined with Jones' very own Oblique tailoring.
While the runway collection is imbued with more extravagant flounces as well as the debut of Dior Men's haute couture—as nods to Nureyev's theatrical career—the dramatic flair as seen on TOMORROW X TOGETHER are more nuanced. '60s- and '70s-inspired tailoring are cut with a rigid straightforwardness, especially in the single-breasted variations, that are then paired with gently flared trousers. Conversely, the collection's more commercial pieces lend a more streetwear air. Take this as the contemporary equivalent of a dancer's off-duty look with slouchy cardigans and hoodies worn over essential white T-shirts and paired with the roomiest of trousers.
It may be a stretch to compare the duality of Nureyev's life with that of TOMORROW X TOGETHER's, given that the former didn't have to contend with the accessibility of social media and in turn, the almost instant, global fame achieved by TOMORROW X TOGETHER. Yet, what remains a similarity is in the versatility and adaptability of both to weave in and out of their lives onstage and off that echo that contrast of two opposing worlds within the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection.
Photography: Brett Lloyd
Animation: Joan Tai
Now in his sixth year at the Maison, artistic director Kim Jones has built a reputation for elevating Dior's menswear, seamlessly blending street style elements with the house's couture history. For the Dior Men Summer 2024 collection, Jones paid tribute to various Dior predecessors and eras, integrating their influences with a contemporary design language. Constantly challenging the notions of tradition and modernity, there's no doubt that the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will be one that brings to the fore forgotten or lesser known elements of Dior's history.
For confirmation of what the Dior Men Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 21 June 2024 at 9pm Singapore time
"I think I'm pretty good at this," Cha Eun-woo nonchalantly said while playing a game with Dior where he masterfully guessed the Dior Men collection by artistic director Kim Jones based on a number of corresponding objects.
He should be a pro at it; Cha has been to a number of runway shows for both Dior and Dior Men since 2022. In fact, he was the only Korean idol to have ever attended a fashion show in Egypt, the site of Dior Men's first show in the country for its Fall 2023 show in Cairo.
Cha's connection with Dior began in 2022, first as a Dior Beauty ambassador. Sure, there's no doubt that the multi-talented actor and singer is as good-looking as they come—there's that impossibly perfect, poreless, porcelain skin and facial proportions that can only be described as stripped from a fantasy novel—but Cha's proven to be more than just a beautiful face. The man has serious style chops.
At the 2022 exhibition Treasure Gardens in Seoul by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel (sponsored by Dior Beauty), Cha wore a Dior Men double-breasted suit with classic accoutrements. It was his first official appearance for the House and it felt fitting as a nod to Dior's haute couture beginnings. But just as Dior Men is more than mere tailoring, Cha has proven that he's quite a fashion chameleon with a range that's as wide as the roles he's taken on as an actor.
Cha continuously exemplifies style deftness on the front row. His first Dior show, the Dior Spring/Summer 2023 collection, saw him opting for a full-black ensemble with a Dior Cannage coat that added much needed textural contrast. In Cairo, he switched it up with an outfit from the Dior Men Spring 2023 collection—a collaboration with Los Angeles-based ERL—that stood out in a different way. "There were several outfits I tried during fitting and chose this in the end," he said, referring to the tinsel sweater in a gradation of blues from look 15 of the collection. And if that wasn't enough tinsel, he had on a Dior Saddle bag in the same treatment and affixed with an oversized gold chain. But before you cry foul that Cha essentially wears Dior Men like how it's styled on the runway, he substituted the jorts and sneakers in the original look for denim jeans and sneakers that complemented his frame and gave more attention to the top half of his outfit.
It's this duality (a term that's been gaining popularity of late in reference to celebrities being adaptable and having multiple personas) that makes Cha quite the perfect Dior man. You'd see him in a monochromatic, elegant ensemble one day, and the next, he'd be in the House's more streetwear-inspired leanings.
The Dior Men Fall 2024 collection speaks to this duality—a convergence of past, present and future. Jones continued exploration of the house codes led him to the visual narratives by Monsieur Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The collection might be a tailoring-focused one, but peppered with elements of the outdoors as well as military-inspired pieces. Subverted tailoring include front-tie blazers and striped shirts paired with shorts as well as bermudas lined with a peeking layers of silk. There's an Art Deco feel in the patterns used on sweaters with zipped details providing that extra element of functionality.
Dior Gravity Leather reinforces the Dior Oblique motif's timeless relevance. The latest interpretation of the icon sees an entirely unique embossing technique that marks leather with the aid of gravity, hence the name. The result is a grained leather series of bags, shoes and accessories that are branded ever so lightly with the motif.
One could say that Cha's ascension into the stratosphere of fame is akin to defying gravity. Even before debuting as a member of then-sextet Astro, he was already dabbling in acting. To date, he's appeared in a couple of films and a string of series, of which the latest, Wonderful World, explored a darker side with themes of grief and revenge. Cha released his first solo EP ENTITY in February but even before that, he's lent his voice as a solo artist in a number of soundtracks.
What's next for Cha? No one really knows except the man himself. But what's for certain is that he'll be taking anything on with the spirit of a Dior man—with grace, elegance, and style.
Photography: Park Jongha
Editor: Im Geon
Styling: Lim Keon
Art Designer: Ju Jeong-hwa
Hair: Lee Il-jung
Make-up: Ahn Sung-hee
Nails: Kim Su-ji
Assistant: Kim Jung-ho
Animation: Joan Tai
In season five of Friends, there's an episode aptly titled "The One With Joey's Bag". The central narrative was of Joey Tribbiani (played by Matt LeBlanc), having received a bag from Jennifer Aniston's Rachel as part of his desire to fit into a role of "a real clothes horse" that he's auditioning for, falling in love with said bag. But of course, given that it was 1999, his friends found every opportunity to ridicule him for even carrying the bag.
You'd think that the bag was in a ghastly shade of pink or a tiny purse that could barely fit anything (even so, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a man wanting to carry either) but in actual fact, it's reminiscent of a top-handle briefcase that's far from extraordinary in today's context.
How times have changed, and thankfully so.
The best bags this season are big. They're made to fit more than just the essentials, with some having the capability to be versatile enough to transition from work bag to gym bag. And of course, because we're all for longterm investments, they're crafted from sturdy and luxurious materials that'll not only last but age well too. From Loewe's latest Pebble Bucket bag to Bottega Veneta's massive tote, we've curated some of the best bags of the season made for every man that you are.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Kenneth Chia using KEVIN.MURPHY and TOM FORD BEAUTY
Photography Assistant: Xie Feng Mao
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Model: Aaron C at MANNEQUIN
Artistic director Kim Jones continues to expand Dior Men’s visual vocabulary in a manner that respects and upholds the legacy of the House. His latest—for the Fall 2024 collection—looks at reimagining the Dior Oblique motif once again.
Debuted in the Dior Men Winter 2023 collection, the Dior Oblique Gravity was the medium of choice to launch a new iteration of the Dior Saddle, dubbed the Dior Saddle Boxy. The Dior Oblique Gravity was introduced in a number of rich, bold hues that highlighted its characteristic patent leather sheen, with the embossed grooves providing a kind of tonal gradation.
For Fall 2024, Jones introduces an update. Where the Dior Oblique Gravity was visually more robust, the Dior Gravity Leather is its softer cousin in more ways than one.
Unlike its predecessor, the Dior Gravity Leather employs the use of grain-textured leather for a more matte finish. The embossing technique itself is a work of art that reflects the house’s handcrafted approach in everything that it dabbles in. Instead of a typical embossing technique where pressure is manually applied to create the desired pattern, the Dior Oblique motif visible on the latest expression is created though a unique technique that delicately marks the leather with the aid of gravity. The result is an almost barely-there appearance across a selection of small leather goods and bags.
The Dior Gravity Leather is available in more muted shades of beige, black and khaki. Small leather goods, such as a belt and a cardholder, are dressed in the motif’s original scale, while bags are given a blown-up, maxi version for a play of proportions. The latter includes the Dior Hit The Road backpack that strikes a beautiful balance of luxury fashion and ruggedness in one refined piece.
The answer: seemingly limitless. The Dior Men Charm bag is the latest of artistic director Kim Jones’ contemporary take on Dior’s storied heritage.
Familiar motifs have taken on new forms before. We saw how Jones supercharged renewed interest in the classic Saddle bag by reimagining it with a Matthew M Williams-designed buckle. Jones also introduced sneakers into the house’s design vocabulary by featuring either the Dior Oblique or in the case of the B30, a streamlined, sporty CD logo. This time, Jones has taken things up a few notches by combining two.
For a start, the Dior Charm bag features a clasp adapted from the hardware of the iconic Lady Dior in the house’s women’s universe. While the original motif consists of connected letters, D, I, O and R (of course), as mobile charms in a calculated arrangement, the Dior Charm of the men’s universe is rendered as a single plaque fashioned from the same characters, with the ‘O’ as the base. It sports an antique silver finish for a grittier look that distinguishes itself from that of the Lady Dior.
But the immediate defining characteristic of the Dior Charm bag is the Cannage motif that completely envelopes the piece. The Cannage Cosmo leather—first introduced by Jones in Summer 2023—is a slightly blown-up version of the original Cannage and translated as a whole laser-cut cage stitched onto smooth calfskin. A true testament to the skills of the Dior artisans, the topstitching is thoroughly precise and serves to enhance the encasement of the motif. In the Dior Charm’s grey and black iterations, they’re subtle and sleek; the Cannage is decidedly bold in the cognac colourway, especially against the antique silver-finish hardware.
Jones is no stranger to referencing the house’s women’s universe and transmuting these references into what would later become key motifs of Dior Men. The Dior Charm is one of those once-in-a-lifetime lightbulb moments that seem so obvious now that it’s been realised. Having it as part of a new bag like the aptly named Dior Charm bag and then combining it with an equally iconic motif like the Cannage (but once again, reworked) is genius.
The past is often revisited in luxury fashion, especially when a great deal of history and heritage are involved. But sometimes, the past whispers fresh ideas, and Jones is the reigning master of listening to them.
Artistic director Kim Jones’ continuous delving into the Dior archives has resulted in a Dior Men Summer 2024 collection that is an amalgamation of ideas of the house’s past creatives. From the tailoring silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferré’s couture embroidery, the collection celebrates the archetypal masculine wardrobe and elevates them into something extravagant, yet reined with a spirited elegance.
The year 2023 was significant for many reasons. There was the rise of artificial intelligence with ChatGPT gaining traction (I assure you this story is written by an actual human). A new King was crowned in the United Kingdom. Twitter was rebranded to X under Elon Musk. Meta launched Twitter-, I mean X-adjacent, Threads (is anyone using this?). The Israeli-Palestinan conflict resurged with fierce aggressions of genocidal proportions. And a host of other life-altering events.
On the much lighter side of things, 2023 also saw a tsunami of Korean entertainment as it was effectively embraced as part of mainstream culture. There was no escaping the torrent of K-dramas and -movies released on streaming platforms, as well as K-pop songs that became part of TikTok dance challenges, all breaking through to the psyche of even the most casual of followers.
Luxury fashion brands appeared to have announced Korean celebrities as ambassadors in succession at one point. K-pop group Stray Kids' Felix and Hyunjin were officially tied to Louis Vuitton and Versace respectively, while Dior locked in TXT as well as Haerin of hit group NewJeans. As well, BTS members V, RM, Jungkook, J-Hope, Jimin and Suga all gained new brand ambassadorships in the same year. There have been at least 30 such announcements made, adding to the growing number of Korean celebrities and idols internationally recognised by luxury fashion brands.
Brand events came out of the woodwork too, tapping on the popularity of Korean celebrities, whether or not they were official brand ambassadors. In Singapore, it became more common to witness dedicated fans camping out in malls and outdoor event spaces for hours before their favourite Korean celebrities were scheduled to make an appearance. From catching their idols gracing the launch of a new product, a new store opening, even a one-night-only private staging of a brand activation, fans welcomed the flurry of events that the brands have organised.
And like well-oiled machines, Korean celebrities know the things to do or say to get their crowds going. That's not to say that there's a tinge of insincerity in their actions or that they're simply going through the PR motions, but rather, these entertainment pros are used to the concept of fan service—an essential part of the Korean entertainment scene.
The term “fan service” is said to have originated from Japanese anime and manga fandoms. It relates to the addition of certain scenes and imagery designed to pander to the desires of fans, often based on collective feedback. These can range from a romance-led narrative between two popular characters that fans have been clamouring for, or even the inclusion of a violent fight scene erupting from an underlying tension fans have deduced. The term has been used in a wide range of instances since—including Hollywood-related fandoms—but in the Korean entertainment scene, it's almost a de facto job requirement.
Ardent K-pop fans will be familiar with the number of weekly music shows where comebacks—a K-pop term that refers to new era-defining music releases by a unit—are performed as part of a scheduled publicity push. As with every K-pop performance (at least at the very beginning of a comeback), the dance choreography is kept synchronised with no deviations between each performance as a way of reinforcing the correlation between movements and song. The outfits and aesthetic concepts, however, vary every time. And fans notice everything.
Every facet of a performance is scrutinised, but largely for candid moments that main camera shots are likely to miss. And if you think K-pop groups have it easier because they technically could hide behind—other members in the line-up—it's common for groups to be made up of more than 10 individuals—you'd be sorely mistaken.
Fancams ensure that nothing escapes the fans. There are typically two main types of fancams. The first is a still camera setup that captures the entire onstage performance with zero edits and cuts. The second is a camera that's trained on each member of a group throughout the entirety of the performance, including when they're out of the main camera frame. Consider the latter as a fan service to those wanting an even closer focus on their bias (a fan's foremost favourite in a group), giving them access to every moment within a performance.
While it does seem intrusive, it isn't that much different from the hordes of phone cameras these artistes are faced with while performing a concert set. Fans often make use of these close-up shots to be better acquainted with their biases—noticing their performance quirks, facial expressions and more. It's the opportunity to also separate an individual from the unit, and in turn, further deepens their affection for an individual member. And of course, these are then shared on social media platforms with like-minded individuals.
Fancams are employed for solo artistes too. It's unlikely that a K-pop idol performs without backup dancers because the scale of even the simplest of productions in K-pop is rarely small. At my first K-pop concert by singer and rapper B.I. in March last year, I witnessed the whole phenomenon unfold. Seated among a visibly younger crowd, I could see through their phone screens just how tightly they zoomed in to capture the biggest and clearest view of the performer.
I have attended a fair share of concerts in my lifetime, yet nothing could have prepared me for B.I's L.O.L.: The Hidden Stage concert. I was offered a set of VIP tickets by a friend, not realising that it afforded me more than just the usual concert experience.
Typically, VIP ticket holders are given access to a soundcheck session hours before the start of the actual concert. Idols tend to be more laid back in both attitude and appearance as they perform a select number of songs, both as a way of prepping the sound and an opportunity for a vocal warm-up for the main event. At times, it's a set list that's completely separate from the concert, and coupled with some banter. I was unfortunately unable to make it for B.I's (it was a really last-minute ticket offer) but heard really good things about it after.
VIP packages vary from artiste to artiste, and can range from anything that includes meeting the artiste as a select group, to more intimate after-show backstage sessions. At B.I's, we were given the opportunity to take a group photo with the performer after the concert. Each row of the VIP section was called up to the stage where chairs were arranged in a similar manner one would find in a school class photo. We were arranged in order of our seat numbers, sat down on the chairs or stood behind them, and B.I would position himself wherever he felt comfortable. All this was done in full view of the other VIP ticket holders who were either waiting for their turn or have completed the experience.
After all the rows had been called up and had their photos taken, the final part of the VIP experience was a last glimpse of B.I. As we walked out of the event venue, he sat casually slumped over a desk and waved goodbye to every single one of us.
The entire experience spanned almost four hours—a three-hour-long concert that included performances, pre-recorded video intervals, casual crowd interactions, a closing video made by fans that was watched together by the man himself, and the hour-long VIP experience—excluding the soundcheck. In contrast, a concert by a non-K-pop artist rarely goes beyond the two-hour mark.
To complete my 2023 Korean entertainment immersion, I attended a fan meet. It was a concept that's completely foreign to me. You see, a concert by a musician makes complete sense because it's a showcase of their repertoire of musicality and is pretty much what a musician does. Actor fan meets, however, seemed a bit strange. Was Jung Hae-in—an actor I personally adore and whose mug has been featured several times here on the pages of Esquire Singapore—going to be acting in a skit? Or perhaps reenact scenes he's known for? I was intrigued.
Presented by streaming platform Viu, Jung was in Singapore for his “The 10th Season” fan meet in October last year. It was a touring series of fan meets in celebration of a milestone 10th year of his career. Singapore was scheduled to be his last overseas stop before heading back to Korea for an encore, and then it's off to the United States and Canada.
The cherub-faced actor filled his fan meet with numerous games and interview sessions, as well as a few musical performances (Jung mentioned in one of the chats during the fan meet that he hopes to be able to sing more, having done so in a number of shows).
It was akin to a variety show. A host drove the conversations and helped transition from one segment to the other, while Jung was accompanied by his translator. In one segment, fans were told to vote, before entering the venue, for their favourite scene out of the many dramas that he's been a part of. Jung then regaled with behind-the-scenes anecdotes and divulged some of the processes that he had to go through before filming a certain scene. Lucky fans too were given the opportunity to get even closer to the actor as seat numbers were called to either participate in games or win merchandise—and of course, an opportunity to snap a selfie or two, which were mostly initiated by Jung. Fan service, people.
For someone who wasn't as familiar with these fan experiences that have become integral parts of the Korean entertainment scene, they do seem a great deal to expect of the artistes. But for the industry, the artistry is but a smidge of the public obligations that the artists are beholden to. Fans are what drive the industry; their dedicated fervour is what expands the reach of these celebrities beyond the Republic. They invest not only in the music, dramas and films, but also in the merchandise, exclusive experiences, and undoubtedly, the lives of these idols.
Perhaps it's an intrinsically Asian trait for Korean celebrities to feel the need to be indebted to fans for their continuous passionate support. And that's not a bad thing, especially when Korean celebrities have become bigger than Western ones in many ways. The fact that they're still as accessible—despite the screams from the crowds that gather to catch even a glimpse of them at everything from fashion week appearances to in-store events—edges them further ahead of their Western counterparts.
I wouldn't say I'm completely taken by all of this—the demands of fan service have led to some terribly unfortunate circumstances within the industry too—but there is a lot to be admired and learnt from individuals who take their time to be of service to their fans, in recognition that these fans are who have helped create the unprecedented international frenzy of today.
B.I was noticeably tired as he made his final fan service at the exit of his Singapore show, and that's understandable. As much as the fans are passionate about their idols, the idols too have the same passion about giving back the same kind of energy that, for all we know, could change someone's life. It may sound dramatic but for someone who paid quite a sum for such a relatively intimate experience, any form of validation is a reward.
It was almost a given that the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection would once again be artistic director Kim Jones' homage to the storied history and archives of the House. Jones' continued reverence for the House has undoubtedly created some of the most inspiring contemporary pieces of late. And the fact that he's able to do so season after season, displays just how extensive the Dior archive is—there are still so many stories to discover and rediscover. Jones is helping to tell those stories.
For Winter 2024, Jones focused on the relationship between Dior and ballet, specifically Margot Fonteyn and Monsieur Dior, and by extension, the former's dance partner, Rudolf Nureyev. In a surprising happenstance, Jones' uncle—photographer and former ballet dancer Colin Jones—too had a link to Nureyev, having photographed the legend and developed a friendship with him. The Winter 2024 collection was thus fashioned as a complete wardrobe of a dancer's life, both onstage and off—channelled through Nureyev's life.
And if you think theatricality was left only in the clothes (including a Dior Men haute couture finale debut), you'd be sorely mistaken. Jones has been dabbling with the runway show theatrics of late. Summer 2024's show saw models ascending from the ground; Winter 2024 saw models ascending to the starry sky of the showspace in a stirring finale that in some ways, reminded me of the staging of one of the rooms in La Galarie Dior.
The fit: Tailoring was sharp and languid all the same—once again taking inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent's definitive silhouette for the House. But for Winter 2024, I'd like to focus on how the collection felt like it's made ready for travel. The collection consisted more of separate pieces than specifically designed coordinates, meaning that everything could be easily spliced and remixed together, reflecting the malleability of a dancer's off-duty wardrobe. Just grab a few pieces and one would essentially look pretty put together.
There's an apparent '70s vibe to the entire collection, marked by the simplicity of the shapes and the lack of excessive details (especially in the beginning looks). Fastenings too were designed to be easy—zips were rampant throughout the entire collection on everything from coats to rompers to deep-V cardigans.
The details: Ballet slippers were interpreted as Mary Jane loafers in a multitude of colours. One that stood out the most on the runway for me was one rendered in an electric blue, paired almost casually with a more grounding brown outfit (look 19). There were also more obvious interpretations of ballet slippers as well as slip-ons thrown in the mix.
Cannage bags were crafted from silk-like material, giving off a sheen that looked luxurious even from the elevated seating I was put at. They came in the form of camera as well as bum bags that added a utilitarian juxtaposition to the ready-to-wear's more elegant designs. One particular bag that immediately caught my eye was a backpack (look 47) embroidered with a somewhat blown-up toile de Jouy motif and paired with a top done in the same treatment. Beautiful.
While this collection felt more commercial and simplified than perhaps the Summer 2024 collection, the details were still aplenty, especially in the couture offerings. Embroidered collars and waists took on intricate forms, enveloping the circumference of where they're positioned and encasing the body with armour-like protection.
Three exceptional looks: Look 4's unassuming romper paired with a turban (inspired by a 1999 Stephen Jones creation for Dior womenswear) and mustard socks; the scrumptious oversized brown coat worn with leather trousers for a monochromatic fit in look 21; and the divine jewelled mastery of look 50 that also combined elements of Jones' interpretation of Dior Men that I personally gravitate towards.
The takeaway: A brilliant way of gaining inspiration from ballet without forcefully injecting tutus and skirts and all that stereotypical ilk.
View the full Dior Men Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.
It's the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week Men's and it's set to be quite a day with two big-named fashion houses scheduled to showcase their Autumn/Winter 2024 collections—Kenzo and Dior Men.
Artistic director Kim Jones has already revealed that the starting point of the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection is the relationship between Dior and ballet. Jones has also linked it to his own personal story of having an uncle who was a ballet dancer and connected to Rudolf Nureyez—quite easily one of the most renowned ballet dancers in history.
Knowing how Jones operates in the soft and often romantic side of things, there's little doubt the Dior Men Winter 2024 collection would be rather gender-blurring but in the most unexpected ways. Don't expect to see tutu skirts though; Jones will definitely put his own magical spin on ballet-influenced details.
For any confirmation, stay tuned for the show this Friday. And for an even closer look at the collection, follow @esquiresg on Instagram as we bring you the action live from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
What: Dior Men Winter 2024 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Friday, 19 January 2024 at 10pm Singapore time
A new trio of actors have ascended as the face of Prada's latest menswear campaign. The Spring/Summer 2024 menswear campaign features—for the very first time—Harris Dickinson, Troye Sivan, and Kelvin Harrison Jr. and lensed by Willy Vanderperre. All brilliant actors in their own right, just like how they each embody different characters from role to role, they portray the transformative nature of fashion coupled with Prada's penchant for stylistic juxtaposition.
We finally have a firm date for Dior Men's upcoming Fall 2024 runway show in Hong Kong. The show is set to take place on 23 March 2024—a break from its usual tradition of a December showing. While there isn't a show venue announced yet, it's safe to say that the fashion house will definitely not be taking over the city's Avenue of Stars that was the site for Louis Vuitton's show in November last year.
Pharrell Williams' first collection for Louis Vuitton has officially hit boutiques this week. And the collection's latest face—the first was a pregnant Rihanna debuted as a lead-up to the runway show last year—is none other than LeBron James. The professional athlete was already pictured with Williams' reworked Louis Vuitton Speedy back in October and made the announcement on social media almost immediately, but we now have the full slate of the campaign going live. And let's just say that it's about time that James is given the LV spotlight.
Saint Laurent's latest at Singapore's Paragon is a two-floor boutique that's unlike the others. The brand new design concept by Anthony Vaccarello is both raw and refined—quite like his creations for the House of late. Industrial grey concrete flooring is juxtaposed with grigio alpi marble walls and blue lumen marble as well as golden spider marble furnishings. The new boutique houses Saint Laurent's collection across all its categories and features a VIP room located on the second floor.
