These days, it's no longer enough to be produce an It bag. The 2000s and their stylings may be back and experiencing a (rather long) resurgence, but the trendy mindset of the times aren't being adopted as much. We're more cognisant of our purchases—buying designs and pieces as investments instead of fleeting of-the-moment wants.
The Hermès Birkin has unwittingly become the benchmark for this enlightened approach to luxury fashion and it's not difficult to see why. It-bag status has been replaced with a flagship investment bag so tied to a fashion house that it's bound to be a perennial hallmark unaffected by trends; the Birkin's continuously sought-after demand and distinct aesthetic has made in an icon of design as well as status.
That's not to say that a fashion house like Balenciaga hasn't had hits or isn't known for a particular style. In fact, the Balenciaga City bag by former creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was an indelible part of the noughties that the House brought it back into rotation since 2021 under a rebranded Le City tag. It also became a point of reference for the Le Cagole line, featuring the former's signature studs. But a Birkin-equivalent, Le City is not.
What makes a bag worthy of being exalted to Birkin status, you ask? For one, a design that's quite unlike any other with elements you'd immediately associate it with. Like the Birkin, an icon hopeful needs to have a versatile everyday appeal and practicality while exuding a sense of elegance—you should just as easily bring it to the office and still stuff it to the brim with groceries and all manner of randomness. Then, there's the potential for it to age and age well, meaning that it has to be made with stellar craftsmanship and material. And of course, there's the aspirational pricing that offers some sort of exclusivity to owning one.
The Balenciaga Bel Air could potentially be Balenciaga's answer to the Birkin.
A completely new design by creative director Demna for Balenciaga, the Bel Air made its first appearance only this year and had already appeared in a campaign fronted by brand ambassadors Isabelle Huppert and Michelle Yeoh, and Naomi Watts in August. In the latest Bel Air campaign, Balenciaga positions the bag as a gender-neutral option with the XL iteration worn by model Kit Butler and Juyeon of K-pop group THE BOYZ.
The Bel Air is in some ways a follow-up to the Balenciaga Rodeo but packed with a bit more functionality. Unlike the latter, the Bel Air is constructed with gussets at the sides that unbuttons to transform it into a roomier piece with extended sides. The front of the Bel Air (like the Rodeo) is interchangeable as well between a clean exterior and that of a more relaxed folded front that's instantly recognisable. Space-wise, the XL version (it's also available in small and medium) is massive with a wide inner zipped compartment and a fully unobstructed interior space.
There's no denying that the Bel Air is well made too. It's crafted from smooth calfskin that's also soft enough to give that supple drape at the front. Yet at the same time, it's a sturdy piece. And going at SGD10,900 for the XL size, it isn't something that's easily accessible to a lot of people.
It may be too soon to predict how the Bel Air will fare in the luxury market. But given all that it has going for it, this could potentially be Balenciaga's next big thing, and if done right, it's very own answer to the Birkin.
Demna is readying the the Summer 2025 collection for Balenciaga in a couple of days in Paris. And as with his previous shows and collections, we won't exactly know what to expect from the creative director who continues to spark conversations about his curious creations—from a bracelet made to look like masking tape to shoes loaded with towering soles.
For confirmation of what the Balenciaga Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Tuesday live from Paris Fashion Week.
What: Balenciaga Summer 2025 runway show
Where: Paris, France
When: Tuesday, 1 October 2024 at 1am Singapore time
It would be remiss of me to talk about Balenciaga without referencing the moment in February 2023 when creative director Demna declared—after months of dealing with a duo of controversial campaigns—that he was "to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes—not making image or buzz." The quote (taken from an interview with Vogue) has been brought up many times since, cropping up after every runway show or collection drop.
Demna may have jumped the gun, and it's rather understandable. In the hopes of quelling the heat surrounding the campaigns, he may have underestimated just how much people would cling onto the statement he made. But to his credit, the Balenciaga collections since have been rather restrained; or at the very least, less controversial.
To say that fashion—especially luxury fashion—could do without the "image" or the "buzz" seems pretty idyllic. One of the reasons Demna got into the position at Balenciaga and in turn, helped build this image of a rebellious and out-of-the-ordinary luxury fashion house was because of the buzz that he created through pieces that were so out of left field that one wouldn't necessary associate them with luxury. And in many ways, so did founder Cristóbal Balenciaga during his time.
Balenciaga's Spring 2025 runway show in Shanghai felt like an eventual return to Demna's roots. The rain was pouring rather heavily but the House decided to carry on with the show, prompting the audience to be shielded from the rain with on-brand black umbrellas. The models, including brand ambassador PP Krit, walked down the runway with little concern for the weather—it actually added to the overall mood of the show.
The fit: If "roots" were of any concern, the Balenciaga Spring 2025 collection showed that Demna knew how to balance the House's tailoring expertise with his more contemporary sensibilities. The show opened with a slew of oversized tailoring that have become Balenciaga signatures. Padded, elongated shoulders were de rigueur but this time, they were designed to be long and tall to mimic the towering high rises of Shanghai's Pudong district. In fact, the entirety of the collection referenced this elongated silhouette with platform footwear upping the ante.
The menswear portion of the collection riffed on favoured staples the likes of blazers, coats as well as sweats. The latter were at times skintight, further emphasising the inspiration of the collection. A futuristic sense of styling—sharp-angled eyewear, oversized accessories, and bags shaped like garments—leaned into the more experimental sides of the House.
There were a couple of collaborations too. One that was immediately noticeable was a collaboration with Under Armour, which essentially saw the brand's technical fabrications and logo given the Balenciaga treatment through oversized silhouettes. The other would've easily escaped the eyes of those unfamiliar with the brand. An Alipay collaboration was kept simple: a merch T-shirt simply branded with logos of both brands.
The details: If you thought the Triple S sneakers were oversized enough (or not), Demna took things quite literally a few levels higher. The collection's platform sneaker was essentially the Triple S on steroids, featuring an outsole significantly bigger than the sneaker's upper. Metalhead boots (also given a supersized platform treatment) proved to be very sturdy during the downpour and no model slipped or fell down throughout the show.
The Spring 2025 collection's more buzzy piece would probably be a clutch shaped into a sneaker box and crafted in leather. It's in line with Demna's penchant for attention-grabbing accessories. Turning the ordinary into seemingly ridiculous luxury objects, you could take it as a critique of the state of luxury—why just covet the sneakers when you can do the same with the box they're packaged in. Or you know, just chalk it up to the "buzz".
Three exceptional looks: Look 2's monochromatic look that showcased the ageless nature of a Balenciaga collection; the effortless Under Armour collaboration of look 17; and look 27's equally effortless combination perfect for the storm that was happening.
The takeaway: There's no taking out the "buzz" from Demna.
View the full Balenciaga Spring 2025 collection in the gallery below.
