No, there isn’t a new artistic director at Berluti. In fact, there hasn’t been one since Kris Van Assche left the Maison in 2021. There is, however, a new CEO in the form of Jean-Marc Mansvelt.
Mansvelt has been in the LVMH Group of brands for decades. He had spent about 10 years in Louis Vuitton before moving to become jewellery house Chaumet’s CEO in 2015, focusing on storytelling to revive what was often referred to as the “sleeping beauty” of the jewellery world. And while high jewellery is far from the world of luxury fashion, Mansvelt is likely to enact a somewhat similar approach to Berluti as its CEO.
The Maison’s latest campaign is the first of what is certain to be many new directional changes for Berluti. Lensed by Bastian Archard, whose works often capture objects and people in a quiet and intimate manner, the 17-image campaign zeroes in on the Maison’s emblematic pieces. They’re treated like objets d’art—shoes and bags positioned on pedestals, while ready-to-wear pieces envelope and take on the personalities of the models they’re put on.
There’s no distinguishing the timeless Berluti classics from pieces picked out from the latest collections. It’s a strategic and artful approach to signal this new chapter of Berluti where seasonality is seemingly obsolete. Instead, the focus is on the craft honed by its artisans. A number of the images from the campaign highlight the design intricacies and details that are easily recognisable for those already familiar with Berluti, while serving as a reminder of the hands and artistry that go behind each piece. The tone-on-tone hand-stitching of the Andy loafers, and the sliver of the contemporary on the sporty-soled Fast Track leather sneakers showcase time-honoured expertise, and are essentially a snapshot of the artisans themselves. The scuffed up and worn out soles of a pair of Alessandro lace-ups demonstrate that Berluti’s pieces are meant to be lived in and remain dependable for years to come.
Perhaps, the most drastic change is the return of the classic Berluti logo. The serif typography has been revived, given due prominence with each and every campaign image bearing the mark—even alongside the Van Assche-initiated trademark onto the sole of a pair of boots. And like the creations it’s featured against, the emblem radiates character and renewed energy, a signifier of the history and upcoming stories yet to be told with the brand.
All that is to say: Berluti is home.
We've long been accustomed to Western and European influences dominating pop culture and fashion. However, in recent years, Asian cultures have made profound impacts. They have steadily carved out their own distinctive niches. K-pop and anime have exploded in popularity, showcasing the nuanced aesthetics of traditional and contemporary Asian design. Chinese social media platforms like Douyin (Chinese TikTok) and Little Red Book (Xiao Hong Shu) are also driving this cultural shift, further amplifying Asia's influence. These platforms are shaping global trends and influencing consumer behaviour.
As you explore this list of Asian menswear brands, you'll find yourself immersed in a new world of fashion. There's no mere mimicking of Western styles; instead, it is a pioneering of unique and innovative approaches ripe for exploration and appreciation.
Post Archive Faction (PAF), a South Korean brand founded in 2018, is known for its utilitarian garments made from performance-specific materials. However, labelling it simply as an outdoor brand would not do it justice. PAF offers more than practical clothing, which likely led to it being shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2021.
The brand has showcased at Paris Fashion Week and launched a collaboration with Off-White, partnering with the late Virgil Abloh. Its "left, right and centre" approach to collections stands out the most, inspired by South Korea's political system. Each collection features a numbering system, indicating updates to previous models and designs.
Established in 2021 by Kartik Kumar, Kartik Research is an artisanal brand based in New Delhi, India. With a mission to "reintroduce humanness into clothing," it counters fast fashion's overproduction by prioritising craftsmanship and quality. Its collection showcases a human touch, with handcrafted shirting and quilts dyed using plants and herbs. Each piece bears hand-stitched embroidered details, embodying uniqueness and imperfection. Kartik Research strives to revive forgotten Indian craftsmanship, offering a blend of heritage and contemporary aesthetics.
Each collection draws inspiration from a subculture within India's heritage. The latest Autumn/Winter 2024 collection titled "Delhi-Jodhpur", explores the fractured dialogue of India. The collection blends emotional connections to India's past with optimism for its future. Shot at a sandstone mine in Jodhpur, it symbolises this dialogue, juxtaposing the aesthetic utopia of the past with the realities of modern commerce.
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, Taiga Takahashi moved to New York to hone his skills. Starting with cloth and textile, he expanded his practice to include sculpture, architecture, installation, and performance. Takahashi's work embodies a philosophy inspired by the ancient Japanese sense of beauty, refined through time and historical relics.
Describing himself as a "sartorial archaeologist," he draws inspiration from his extensive archive of American garments spanning the 18th to 20th centuries. In his designs, he transforms elements from these archives with each garment telling its own unique story.
In his art, cloth serves as a canvas where craft, design, history, and art converge seamlessly. This concept drove him to found his label T.T Gion in New York in 2017, and later established an integrated Kyoto-based art space and Tea Ceremony in December 2021.
Unfortunately, Takahashi passed away unexpectedly in the spring of 2022. His team continues his legacy, designing garments that draw from the past, are made for the present, and will endure into the future.
Doublet, the streetwear brand founded by Masayuki Ino in 2012, won the LVMH Grand Prize in 2018. Its debut Spring/Summer collection was unveiled in 2013, featuring casual daily wear infused with a sense of uniqueness. The novelty and unique details enhance the avant-garde and distinctly Japanese character of its designs.
The brand has showcased its collections at Tokyo Fashion Week and, as of summer 2022, Paris Fashion Week. Doublet has 25 stockists worldwide including Dover Street Market. Despite the fast-growing presence of the brand, it manages to maintain its relatively underground presence.
In 2016, Liu Dan Xia (Dan) and Shan Peng Wong (Shan) founded Danshan. The design duo strive to disregard gender archetypes and instead explore what is beneath the façade of machoism and strength. Danshan delves into the nuanced aspects of contemporary male existence, dissecting the evolution of male body language and investigating methods to imbue a masculine silhouette with femininity, all while respecting the traditional boundaries of menswear.
Growing up during the era of the "Single Child policy" in China, where sons were often favoured, Dan was raised as a boy by her family until the age of 12 due to societal pressures. Her unorthodox upbringing profoundly influences the brand's ethos, manifesting in garments crafted from "softer" fabrics traditionally associated with femininity.
Launched in 2021 by designer Hung La, Lựu Đạn emerged during the George Floyd protests and Stop Asian Hate movement. The brand delves into the intricacies of Asian identity, symbolised by its name, which combines "pomegranate" and "bullet" in Vietnamese to signify a "dangerous man." Embracing rich-coloured palettes, nostalgic prints, and bold silhouettes, Lựu Đạn pays homage to heritage while celebrating new legacies within its community. Celebrities like Billie Eilish, Justin Bieber, K-pop idols such as Felix (Stray Kids) and Heesung (Enhypen) have been spotted wearing Lựu Đạn.
Born and raised in Taiwan, Peng Tai graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2017 and moved to Paris. His eponymous brand actively explores the relationship between nature, humans, and cities, featuring two distinct lines: the main line and the "meditation room." His design philosophy, deeply rooted in the ancient Chinese principles of yin-yang and the five elements, seeks a precise balance.
Incorporating the five elements—earth, wood, metal, fire, and water—Peng Tai aims to achieve harmony through balanced design. The meditation room line leverages the power of Chinese medicine, using fabrics dyed with Chinese herbal medicine to blend traditional wisdom with contemporary fashion.
Established in 2019 by Danish streetwear enthusiast Tobias Billetoft and Korean designer Sangchan Lee, HGBB STUDIO seamlessly blends regional influences, reflecting their shared ideals. The collections are rooted in utilitarian shapes, enhanced with stylistic flourishes in fabric and detail.
HGBB STUDIO aims to transcend the "visual expression" of established brands by addressing rapidly changing trends and catering to a trend-oriented generation. They strive to carve out a unique identity through diverse projects and collaborations with independent partners.
Phyn Studio epitomises contemporary streetwear with its effortlessly cool vibe and a focus on gender fluidity, crafted by designer Phoenix Tan. Recently, the brand partnered with Levi’s for an upcycle denim workshop, transforming old denim into unique accessories. Tan also curates projects like Morph by Phyn, which deconstructs and reconstructs objects into new forms. Additionally, Phyn Studio collaborated on a capsule line for the 2022 Hennessy x NBA partnership.
Josh Tirados, a Filipino-born, Singapore-based designer and multidisciplinary artist, debuted his gender-neutral label last year with the collection 01-Anino. Working with deadstock fabrics, Tirados handcrafts nearly all his garments. His creations are often characterised as romantic workwear with subtle sensuality, influenced by his background in the Japanese dance form Butoh. They showcase neutral earthy tones, meticulous tailoring, and rustic textures. Alongside his clothing line, Tirados also designs his own jewellery and accessories.
The Louis Vuitton Malle Courrier isn’t just one of the most enduring of the famed French fashion house’s designs—it’s the literal foundation of the entire company. And it’s the story of this trunk that’s at the heart of the first episode of Esquire’s new series, Iconic, which details some of the most recognisable and resilient items in the fashion world.
Back in the middle of the 1800s, before his initials were one half of the name of luxury juggernaut LVMH, Louis Vuitton himself revolutionised the luggage industry with a flat-topped, stackable trunk better suited to the uptick in rail and boat travel than its rounded predecessors. And the biggest innovation? Instead of using leather to protect the wood it was built from, Vuitton’s trunk employed lightweight-but-tough canvas that wasn’t prone to rotting in a baggage hold midway across the Atlantic Ocean.
The Louis Vuitton trunk was such a smash hit that other companies soon began copying the distinctive striped pattern of the original canvas. This led to the creation of the unmistakable Monogram canvas that we all know so well. A combination of the letters "L" and "V" with Japanese-inspired flower motifs, it was like nothing else on the market and an instant status symbol.
These days, though, identifiable imagery doesn’t hold the same value it once did in the fashion world. In fact, modern luxury’s emphasis on logos and signifiers doesn’t quite hit the mark. True luxury is defined by the work that goes in behind the scenes, the craftsmanship and know-how that inform the construction of goods that serve a real purpose and just so happen to elevate our experience of the everyday in the process.
That’s the idea behind Iconic. It’s not about names or brands or flash. It’s about the substance that earns these items their lofty place in the world—and maybe, eventually, your own collection.
Originally published on Esquire US
For over three decades, SHANGHAI TANG has blended luxury fashion and lifestyle with Asian flair. It's a cute-meet between East and West. Through the combination of millennia-old cultural influences, exquisite craftsmanship, and contemporary art.
Renowned for its collaborations with artists to promote Chinese arts and culture, the brand didn't break new ground with its partnership with Jacky Tsai. But it is a collaboration that works. The multimedia Chinese artist, who is based in London, has an impressive body of work that ranges from traditional canvases to real-time NFT digital pieces, integrating Eastern ideology and cultural symbols with Western Pop art icons and motifs. Themes of his pieces include alternative narratives and realities, constantly reflecting on our own.
Like SHANGHAI TANG, Jacky Tsai unifies the differences and similarities between perceptions. His art is a provocation into viewers' ideas of intercultural relationships and that establishes both tension and harmony between cultural representations.
(SHANGHAI TANG)
This year’s Holiday Collection draws inspiration from Tsai’s iconic butterfly and galloping horse motifs. Each piece is infused with a dynamic and chic pop art vibe. With bold colour contrasts and striking patterns, it embodies the lively spirit of Tsai's original artworks. Along with SHANGHAI TANG's signature embroidery, it imbues a refined craftsmanship. You're wearing art as each garment is a canvas of creativity. The collection features limited edition pieces with exclusive designs that captures three decades of a shared artistry and cultural innovation.
