The finale at the Burberry Summer 2025 runway show.
(BURBERRY)

There have been plenty of articles attempting to critically analyse Burberry's current strategy—both creatively as well as from a marketing standpoint. It has become a continuously profound struggle for Burberry, a heritage brand that has been experiencing a sort of fall from financial grace for years now, to find that balance between being fashion-forward and desirable.

The Burberry Summer 2025 runway show proved that chief creative officer Daniel Lee has perhaps found that balance after almost two years of steering the brand back to its British roots. Noticeably, there were a few design elements that Lee initiated in his first few collections that he's now seemed to forgo this time around. The Burberry Check is back in its original rendering after seasons of being skewed at an attempt to modernise the motif, while the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) wasn't as prominent.

Lee likens the collection as a continuation of Winter 2024. "An easy elegance that feels inviting for summer. We want the pieces to feel welcoming, and for the wearers to feel confident," he says. Cue the much softer approach in terms of fabrications, treatments as well as colour palette—as though to say that these pieces are indeed wearable and easy enough buy into.

The fit: A lot of the Burberry Summer 2025 collection's focus is on the military aspects of the brand's heritage. It's evident from the overall swathe of pastel, washed out and weathered colourways that Lee's intention was to highlight Burberry's more utilitarian functionality. The collection's outerwear pieces remained key grounding elements and inherently made the collection Burberry. This time, trench coats were reconstructed into asymmetric jackets, a couple of slightly cropped iterations as well as multi-pocket field jacket versions. They were all season-appropriate—crafted in lightweight silk, linen or bonded wool.

The zipped elements from Winter 2024 made a return on the runway. They were featured on a number of zipped trousers styled open at the knees to further accentuate the roominess of the cut. Where pockets weren't adorned with weatherproof flaps, zipped details reinforced utilitarian elements as well as versatile styling proposals.

Overall, the collection excelled at reimagining Burberry house codes without needing to shout with bold graphics or an overuse of branded signatures and motifs. Silhouettes felt easy to wear with chic simplicity apparent throughout the collection. In some cases, perhaps, they were too simple in execution, especially when broken into individual pieces. Together though, the styling felt the most Burberry that Lee has crafted thus far.

The details: A complete overhaul of the bag offerings seemed to be intentional. The collection saw introductions of completely new styles all designed to be unlined and relaxed. The Country comes as a crossbody, bucket bag and tote in grainy leather with the Burberry Check, while the B Clip—named after its b-shaped front fastening—is a new messenger bag, tote and holdall in tumbled leather and suede with the addition of a rather stunning Burberry Check style in patchwork leather.

Three exceptional looks: The super chic opening look styled almost like a regal, royal officer; look 32's classic Burberry Check rendered in a deep hue for a truly utilitarian ensemble; and the timeless silhouette of look 47.

The takeaway: Lee has found a balance between his own leanings and Burberry's Britishness—how open customers will be to adapting remains the brand's challenge.

View the full Burberry Summer 2025 collection in the gallery below.

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(BURBERRY)

Burberry is the final big-named house on the London Fashion Week calendar and it's poised to bring some newness. Unlike previous runway shows by chief creative officer Daniel Lee, the Burberry Summer 2025 runway show will be staged indoors as opposed to the brand erecting a tent. Lee has also enlisted English artist Gary Hume to design the set of the show.

There's been a consistent Britishness about Lee's creative direction at Burberry—rooting designs on the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) seen above, reimagining Burberry's trench icons, as well as silhouettes that lean on familiar English heritage. It's highly likely that Lee will continue to do so, especially with teasers focusing on "born of function, grounded in heritage". The Burberry check is probably set on making a more prominent design element—but how that will look like remains to be seen.

For confirmation of what the Burberry Summer 2025 collection will look like, stay tuned for the show this Monday live from London Fashion Week.

What: Burberry Summer 2025 runway show
Where: London
When: Monday, 16 September 2024 at 11pm Singapore time

1. Rocking Horse tote, BURBERRY

It might be odd to think that something as angular as this tote is called the Rocking Horse. The name actually refers to the line’s initial bag designs constructed with a curved base that allows them to easily rock like a rocking horse, and are distinguished by the “b” closure. Its tote incarnation keeps things classic with a briefcase-like silhouette for some serious corporate-appropriate style chops.

2. Chelsea boots, CELINE

We could all do with some added height and when it comes to heeled boots, hardly anything comes close to Hedi Slimane’s versions for CELINE. These are cut in a familiar Chelsea shape for fuss-free slipping in and off and the pointed toes immediately help to elongate the legs further. Also, peep that subtle Triomphe branding right at the ankle—an extra touch of if-you-know-you-know branding.

3. Gucci Savoy small cabin trolley, GUCCI

Gucci’s connection with London’s The Savoy goes all the way back to when founder Guccio Gucci worked as a porter at the famed hotel. The experience prompted him to found his own luggage atelier upon his return to Florence (no guesses what that eventually turned into). This cabin trolley is a nod to the very beginnings of Gucci, but of course, updated with wheels and a telescopic handle. When not in use, it makes for quite an ornamental interior piece much like a classic travel trunk.

4. Lace-up shoes, TOD'S

Nothing comes close to being as classic and unbelievably versatile as a pair of leather lace-ups. You’d easily be able to dress them up or down and they go with just about anything. Tod’s may be known for its pebble-soled Gomminos but the comfort of its footwear translates even to something as sturdy as a pair of leather lace-ups. The lugged rubber sole gives it a more contemporary flair and traipses the line between formal and casual seamlessly.

5. Black Bay, 41mm steel case with steel bracelet, TUDOR

The TUDOR Black Bay is an icon. And like most icons, it requires little tweaking. This latest iteration keeps all the design aesthetics with a monochromatic intent that successfully highlights every detail to perfection. The black sunburst dial is undoubtedly subtle but perfect for a timepiece you would want to put on every day, for any occasion.

6. Personal crossbody bag, RIMOWA

RIMOWA’s Personal crossbody bag receives a new seasonal colour in a stunning shade of emerald green, and it’s quite honestly one of the more eye-catching shades in its aluminium series yet. The shell is wrapped around leather straps in a darker shade of green that matches the leather interior, and the palladium hardware contrasts beautifully against the rich hue. It could be an intimidating colour to wear but match this with neutrals for a surefire way of pulling it off.

7. The Dandy eau de parfum, PENHALIGON'S

With an Art Deco-inspired bottle design, you would think that Penhaligon’s The Dandy is somewhat of a traditional, masculine fragrance—heavy, woody and mildly overbearing to most. Yet, the fragrance surprises by being woody without that heavy lingering of intensity. The hints of warm, spicy notes cut through slightly after a while for a more balanced take on a liquor-forward scent. The Dandy is definitely more of an evening scent but its lightweight quality could just as easily be used in the day too.

8. Scarf, LORO PIANA

Never underestimate the power of a scarf, especially one with hand-rolled trims and in colours that will never go out of style. Loro Piana updates the paisley print with bold, stark lines for a more elevated look. It’s a cashmere-silk blend that’s incredibly lightweight yet will definitely provide some warmth should you need it; or wear it loosely around the neck (in as many permutations as you could think of) to simply add a touch of irreverent elegance to an outfit.

9. Wasabi scented candle, LOEWE

The beauty of a Loewe candle is that the moment the wax completely burns off, the ceramic vessel can be used in a myriad of ways, all while looking like a piece of art. The latest Wasabi scent is one of the line’s more intense offerings with its green and spicy notes reminiscent of that first whiff of a spoonful of wasabi. Fair warning: this may make you crave for some sushi.

10. Card case, SAINT LAURENT

Yes, you don’t necessarily need a card case any more since everything is pretty much be done with your mobile. But neither do you need a watch nowadays too. It’s all about the aesthetics and this piece by Saint Laurent is a slim iteration with four card slots (just right). It also comes with a detachable strap you’d able to secure around a belt loop or wear around the neck as an accessory. The design is clever—the card slots are enveloped within a leather housing for added security.

Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistants: Aliy Alam and Syed Abdullah

It's the second Friday of May. You're a couple of days away from turning up to Mother's Day dinner with a flower arrangement that (a) you didn't order in advance so it's pretty much an assortment of leftovers the florist managed to collate, and (b) you're kinda screwed, dude.

Not to bring up an Asian mother trope, but we sure she's going to be nice about receiving a floral bouquet, before flicking through Facebook or her Whatsapp group chat with [insert aunty's name] showcase of the gift her thoughtful son got her. It's no competition, yes. But she definitely deserves something more.

Thankfully, there are plenty of last-minute Mother's Day gift options out there that you don't even need to sneakily get her sizes for. And we've scoured 10 just for you.

Ella Boston bag, MCM

(MCM)

Adorned with the signature Visetos monogram, the Ella Boston Bag in Maxi Visetos epitomises timeless elegance and contemporary allure. Drawing inspiration from vintage travel trunks of Munich's golden era, this bag boasts a leather hang tag and a logo-engraved metal padlock, paying homage to its jet-setting heritage. Red roses? Nah.

Diva's Dream necklaces, BVLGARI

(BULGARI)

How do you honour a mother's invaluable and nurturing love? Bulgari’s exquisite Diva's Dream necklaces might offer a radiant answer. Featuring signature shapes with mother of pearl inserts and vibrant malachite, these timeless pieces symbolise unconditional love—a perfect tribute to the extraordinary mothers in our lives.

Rogue Dior lipstick, DIOR BEAUTY

(DIOR BEAUTY)

Encased in a sleek, new design with magnetic closure, a Rouge Dior red lip never goes out of style. Its long-lasting formula ensures comfort, enriched with hydrating lip care for nourishment. There's a spectrum of shades in matte velvet and satin finishes—the matte velvet finish grants full, soft lips with a weightless feel, while the satin finish imparts brightness and shape. More than just a lipstick, it's also a small piece of luxury that she'll be able to carry with her wherever she goes.

Origami Flowers by Atelier Oï, LOUIS VUITTON 

(LOUIS VUITTON)

We know we’ve been veering from the usual flower choices, but bear with us—these aren't your typical blooms. These exquisite origami flowers are crafted by Atelier Oï in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. It's a partnership that celebrates craftsmanship with creations inspired by emotional material encounters. Each leather petal reflects a story of love and care, reflecting the essence of maternal strength as well as the beauty of handmade artistry. If you want to get her flowers, get her these ones that won't wither after a week.

Collection de l’Atelier, HENRY JACQUES

(HENRY JACQUES)

Made from the handpicked roses cultivated in the House's new Southern France atelier, Henry Jacques reveals its latest expression, Collection de l’Atelier. The limited edition collection features three distinct fragrances—Rose Soleil, Rose Trés Rose, and Rose Azur—in generous 30ml volumes to emphasise the rarity, preciousness and quality. Also available as a set of three, elegantly presented in a handcrafted chest. Limited to just 500 bottles, each a singular creation, this collection is an exclusive offering never to be duplicated. 

Rocking Horse bag, BURBERRY

(BURBERRY)

Handcrafted in Italy from textured calf leather, the Rocking Horse Bag blends nostalgic charm with modern versatility. Featuring a unique "b" closure, it's a nod to the classic rocking horse toy. With an adjustable strap, it effortlessly transitions from shoulder to crossbody wear. Embellished with the iconic tartan-check pattern, this medium version in Lichen ensures versatility and ample space for your mother's everyday needs.

Slides, GUCCI

(GUCCI)

Just as mothers gracefully navigate the twists and turns of parenting, shoes likewise adapt to diverse terrains. Show your appreciation with a pair of Gucci slide sandals—a perfect nod to their resilience and elegance. Crafted from light blue denim, these slide sandals are adorned with an embroidered Gucci script and striped accents, merging style with comfort seamlessly.

Replenishing Moisture collection set, LA MER 

(LA MER)

Pamper mom with the La Mer Replenishing Moisture Collection Set. This limited-edition set comprises of La Mer's hydrating Treatment Lotion, transformative Eye Concentrate, protective Lime Tea Concentrate, and luxurious Hydrating Infused Emulsion and Crème De La Mer. With indulgent moisture in four simple steps, it's the perfect pampering solution for radiant, youthful-looking skin, suitable for all skin types.

Les Eaux d'Issey Solar Violet, ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS

(ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS)

Issey Miyake introduces L’Eau d’Issey Solar Violet. This new fragrance pay homage to nature's beauty, embodying the transformation of water after encountering the sublime. L’Eau d’Issey Solar Violet, crafted by perfumer Marie Salamagne, merges freshness with sensuality, featuring luminous violet and sunny pear notes. Dermatologically tested and suitable for sun exposure with proper protection, it makes a thoughtful gift as a celebration of the radiant spirit of motherhood.

Airstrait straightener, DYSON

(DYSON)

The Dyson Airstrait Straightener revolutionises hair straightening with air, not heat. Its innovative design allows for simultaneous drying and straightening from wet, without hot plates, ensuring no heat damage. Featuring precise directional airflow and intelligent heat control, it safeguards hair's natural shine by measuring temperature 16 times per second. No more accidentally burning her fingers for mom.

Bucket bag, LOEWE

In season five of Friends, there's an episode aptly titled "The One With Joey's Bag". The central narrative was of Joey Tribbiani (played by Matt LeBlanc), having received a bag from Jennifer Aniston's Rachel as part of his desire to fit into a role of "a real clothes horse" that he's auditioning for, falling in love with said bag. But of course, given that it was 1999, his friends found every opportunity to ridicule him for even carrying the bag.

You'd think that the bag was in a ghastly shade of pink or a tiny purse that could barely fit anything (even so, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a man wanting to carry either) but in actual fact, it's reminiscent of a top-handle briefcase that's far from extraordinary in today's context.

How times have changed, and thankfully so.

The best bags this season are big. They're made to fit more than just the essentials, with some having the capability to be versatile enough to transition from work bag to gym bag. And of course, because we're all for longterm investments, they're crafted from sturdy and luxurious materials that'll not only last but age well too. From Loewe's latest Pebble Bucket bag to Bottega Veneta's massive tote, we've curated some of the best bags of the season made for every man that you are.

Ear cuff, HERMÈS. Bag, DIOR MEN
Ear cuff, HERMÈS. Tote bag, BOTTEGA VENETA

Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Kenneth Chia using KEVIN.MURPHY and TOM FORD BEAUTY
Photography Assistant: Xie Feng Mao
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Model: Aaron C at MANNEQUIN

Brand ambassador appointments are nothing new—in fact, they're quite a regular occurrence nowadays. What's unusual and quite rare are instances where multiple brand ambassadors are announced on the same day and by two very different brands.

But that's the beauty of appointing a brand ambassador. One is carefully chosen based not only on popularity and personal achievements in the space that they inhabit, but also by how they fit in with the brand ethos and aesthetic. Hence, even when Burberry and RIMOWA announced their newly crowned brand ambassadors on the same day (8 March 2024), the distinction was very clear.

Barry Keoghan for Burberry

Irish actor Barry Keoghan, known for his roles in movies such as Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk, Martin McDonagh's The Banshees of Inisherin, and most recently, the highly talked about Saltburn, has had many affiliations with Burberry. The BAFTA winner was a guest of the brand for the 2023 Met Gala (dressed in an attention-grabbing outfit featuring chief creative officer Daniel Lee's reworked Burberry check), and opted to wear Burberry to the European premiere of Apple TV+'s Masters of the Air and the 2024 BAFTA Film Awards. If you've been following the Burberry runway shows closely, you would have also spotted Keoghan on the front rows of the Summer 2024 and Winter 2024 shows.

Keoghan's brand ambassadorship seems like a longtime coming then. "I've been a fan of Burberry for many years now. It's such an iconic heritage brand with innovation at its heart, and a commitment to supporting arts and culture. I'm very excited to be a part of this next chapter," he says.

Jay Chou for RIMOWA

Trust the King of Mandopop to be a fitting ambassador for RIMOWA. Jay Chou confesses to be a longtime fan of RIMOWA: "As I travel around the world, my RIMOWA suitcases have been trusted companions that I share precious memories with. They've accompanied me not only in professional settings but during other travels too, as I delved into new realms to seek out new inspiration." If you're still in doubt about the authenticity of Chou's affinity for RIMOWA, one of his own was showcased as part of RIMOWA's 125th anniversary exhibition SEIT 1898 back in 2023.

Chou is now part of the latest instalment of RIMOWA's Never Still campaign. As an overarching narrative that defines travel not only as a means of personal advancement, but also a catalyst for inner transformation, Chou's campaign sees him relating travel to his musical endeavours and the boundless inspirations that being "never still" offers. "Melodies know no rules, stories unfold spontaneously," he says as he's captured navigating the streets of London (no doubt one of many cities the seasoned entertainer has travelled to) with a RIMOWA Original Cabin in Titanium.

Edited by Asri Jasman

Nostalagia hit the runway at the Burberry Winter 2024 show. Not only was the show's soundtrack a selection of Amy Winehouse's songs—"You Know I'm No Good", "In My Bed", "Half Time", and "Back to Black"—the show was opened by Agnyess Deyn. And if you were in your teens in the 2000s like me, Deyn would be a familiar name and figure—an English model known for her platinum blonde pixie cut and a fashion inspiration for girls and boys of the time.

The fashion served a similar platter of nostalgia. Chief creative officer Daniel Lee refocused his attention towards the military heritage of Burberry for the Winter 2024 collection with a colour palette that captured the earthy tones of the outdoors. Now that the new brand signifiers have been put in place—the Equestrian Knight Design, the Burberry knight blue and key bags emblematic of Lee's creative direction—its the coats that were reworked with a further military slant.

The fit: Trench coats took on new forms both in silhouette as well as the way they were worn. Instead of belting to accentuate the waist, the belt was tied from the back for a more minimal front. The collar was turned up and buttoned up to create a funnel neck (practical for the colder seasons). The trench coats were also dressed with the oversized epaulettes that were first introduced in Lee's debut collection for Burberry, as well as new keyring hardware that zipped up the front of the coat to the storm flap. The latter an example of Lee's penchant for decorative hardware at Burberry.

There was a decidedly oversized silhouette employed throughout the collection, exuding a sense of warmth and protection that Lee intended. But also, an extension of a signature British aesthetic prevalent on the streets.

Duffle coats and field jackets took on more voluminous forms as they were either crafted from fleecy wool or trimmed with a burst of braided fringing. Zippers on these outerwear were extended to trousers too, with each side consisting of three zipper pulls to allow for creative manipulation. They're reminiscent of those trackpants lined with buttons along the sides that were a big part of the noughties, but here, the attention was front and centre.

The details: On the bags front, a variation of the Trench Tote bag seemed to be a key push. Constructed with zippered sides, they were available in a number of materials with the standout being the ones featuring the Burberry check. And if I'm being honest, a more superior version that the original. The Shield bag, on the other hand, received a more functional upgrade with an exterior compartment.

While the knight blue wasn't part of the colour palette, it wasn't completely stripped from the Burberry Winter 2024 collection—its Lee's coloured signifier for the brand, after all. With every step of each model, the colour peeked through from the soles of every footwear. Not that we need to be reminded of how much that colour is now a part of Burberry (there's a whole knight blue takeover of Harrods that's still going on), but perhaps it's one of those subliminal messaging cleverly employed.

Three exceptional looks: Look 7 had the makings of being the next go-to fit for every British renegade youth; the easy and comfort-first look 19 with that plush mustard vest; and look 48's moleskin trench that's cool in every way.

The takeaway: I'm inclined to say that this is the best Lee for Burberry collection yet.

View the full Burberry Winter 2024 collection in the gallery below.

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Burberry's Seongsu Rose pop-up as part of its Seoul edition of Burberry Streets.

A new collection by a newly installed creative is a big deal, especially when it’s coming out of a storied fashion brand like Burberry.

When chief creative officer Daniel Lee’s debut collection was shown earlier in February during London Fashion Week, there was no denying that Lee’s visual aesthetic for Burberry took a stark departure from his predecessor’s, for which the overall consensus had been that it lacked Britishness for a quintessentially British brand.

While Lee’s collection only began rolling out into boutiques and online in September (that’s a seven-month wait if you’re counting, granted select clientele were given early buying access), the brand had already been releasing campaign visuals progressively. It had been introducing a new Burberry visual vocabulary to act as a sort of palate cleanser before Lee’s vision physically materialised in its entirety. But visuals can only do so much, particularly at a time when people are inundated with a constant flow of them from every direction. And let’s face it, we’ve devolved to have such short attention spans that any clip over 30 seconds is likely to get scrolled past.

Enter Burberry Streets.

The entirety of the main Seongsu Rose pop-up was drenched with a rose-motif tarp.

The street takeover series was first launched in London for a week in September, coinciding with the Spring/Summer 2024 edition of London Fashion Week. Burberry was serious about the takeover and went as far as to partner up with Transport for London to allow it to temporarily rename Bond Street station to Burberry Street station, including recolouring the roundels in knight blue—Lee’s colour signifier for Burberry. At the same time, North London’s Norman’s cafe played host to a special Burberry menu, had its interiors refurbished with the new Burberry icons, and made its run around London via a food truck.

But that’s only the tip of it. Burberry Streets is conceived to be a travelling series of takeovers around the world, with Seoul and Shanghai as planned stops thus far.

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It was in Seoul that we bore witness to how the Burberry rose print and the revived Equestrian Knight Design (EKD)—two key visual elements of Lee’s first collection—peppered the entire city, especially along the hip Seongsu-dong. A precinct that used to house shoemakers and leather factories, Seongsu-dong is now considered one of Seoul’s artistic districts where galleries and cafes are found next to existing manufacturing hubs and warehouses. There’s a certain grittiness to the area, punctuated by colourful graffiti. The campaign saw Burberry Streets take over the space for an entire month, ending on 5 November.

Murals, billboards, flags and awnings featuring the Burberry rose print motif stretched across a 10-minute walk along Seongsu-dong. They seem to be presented at random. At one point, the motif sat right atop the sign for an operational leather workshop, while EKDs were spray-painted on roads. But they all pointed in the direction of three Burberry pop-ups.

Seongsu Shoe featured all of Daniel Lee's first collection of shoes for Burberry.
The water bottles seen on the Autumn/Winter 2023 runway had its own Seongsu Bottle pop-up.

The first (depending on where one set out) was at Seongsu Shoe that’s dedicated to all things footwear from the Winter 2023 collection. At the other end was the bright yellow Seongsu Bottle, featuring the colourful hot water bottle accessories that are emblematic of the collection. Both were planned as micro pop-ups to flank the main Seongsu Rose pop-up—a massive space drenched in tarp emblazoned with the rose motif. It was here that visitors got to experience Lee’s debut collection in its entirety. Imagined within a “Petal Maze” installation, the collection is segmented into categories—bags, shoes, menswear, womenswear, accessories and more—encouraging visitors to explore each English rose-inspired element of the installation to get better acquainted with the new Burberry.

To underscore the Britishness of the entire takeover, Burberry brought over Norman’s for a dedicated pop-up right next to Seongsu Rose, serving up an all-day selection of British classics. And of course, also introducing a sliver of Norman’s interior to those unfamiliar with it.

The beauty of the Seoul takeover lay in that it was a visual feast of all things Burberry under Lee, exuberantly integrated into its local surroundings. The rose motif and the EKD stood out, yes. Yet they felt like artwork that you would typically find at Seongsu-dong.

The interior of Seongsu Rose was imagined with rose-inspired elements.
Burberry brought over Norman's too.
It was essentially a maze meant for complete exploration of every facet of the collection.
Each area was segmented into the different categories that comprise the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection.

It certainly helped too that the opening event of Seoul’s Burberry Streets takeover was attended by a curated list of Korean celebrities and creative figures. Fans came in droves, armed with their mobile devices and some professional camera equipment as they readied themselves for appearances by the likes of Lee Dongwook, Lee Jongsuk, Seventeen’s Wonwoo, Burberry ambassadors Bright and Jun Ji-hyun, and of course, Lee himself.

Chief creative officer Daniel Lee.

Let’s just say, every photo taken by every single fan that evening would have included their favourite idol dressed in Lee’s Burberry and with the hard-to-miss rose motif in the background. Need we say more?

There was no doubt that Burberry chief creative officer Daniel Lee's first showing for the British brand was a stark departure from predecessor Riccardo Tisci's.

The debut—a collection that we're finally able to experience in boutiques now—was a return to Burberry's Britishness, replete with elements and motifs ripped from Lee's lived experiences as a Brit as well as from the brand's archives. The Burberry check was rendered at a slant and blown up (a simple but effective way of modernising the brand signifier) and the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) revived as a complementary branding device.

For the Burberry Summer 2024 collection, Lee continued to reimagine the brand's heritage with an even more focused lens. Building a new visual vocabulary for a brand like Burberry is no mean feat. With the second runway collection, we're starting to see the fruits of that labour.

If the Winter 2024 collection was a foundational collection that at times may have seemed a bit chaotic—a mallard beanie and a cacophony of visuals ranging from roses to more mallards to the EKD—the Summer 2024 collection felt more intentional and evolved. Surprisingly, the latter was more subdued and less colourful than the debut. In fact, the 'knight blue' that Lee has adopted for Burberry was little to be seen on the runway.

The fit: The overall colour palette for the collection was relatively quite dark. Instead of knight blue, colours graduated from black to a dark green before branching off to richer hues.

Yet, at the same time, prints were a key focus of the collection. What appeared as though vintage scarf prints lifted from the Burberry archives were actually prints of metal hardware in the shape of a horse—part of the Knight bag introduced for Winter 2023—and chains. Similarly, a repeated motif of the clasp of the Rocking Horse bag too appeared as a print. Both prints adorned a number of ready-to-wear pieces, including a new take on the classic Burberry trench. Lee's intent was to reimagine the trench for the summer and that included making it more lightweight than ever—in look 47, the trench could be seen hung by the neck simply by a thin chain.

What I especially liked about Burberry Summer 2024 was how Lee doubled down on the brand's military past. And while that could have resulted in quite costume-y creations, the ready-to-wear looked simply at home. Epaulettes on shirting as well as outerwear extended well beyond the shoulder line, while the trench coats cut a sharp, regimental silhouette while still retaining a sense of modernity with a dropped waist and exaggerated belt.

The details: Lee may have kept the tailoring sharp but he injected off-kilter semblances in the styling as well as accessories. The collection's slip-ons for example (looks 41 and 45) were doused in rhinestones with the EKD fixed like one would a Crocs Jibbitz. Leather loafers were crafted with an extended leather buckle in the shape of the Burberry Shield bag and topped with the EKD. It's these constant details that help drive the message of the new subtle visual vocabulary of Lee's Burberry.

Three exceptional looks: The ease and simplicity of look 16's black fit embellished with cleverly printed trousers; look 23's printed coordinates that could easily be broken up into pieces that could stand on their own; and look 45's new take of dressed up casual in classic Christopher Bailey-era hues.

The takeaway: Burberry is back to being refined with doses of unexpected quirks—a truly Brit aesthetic.

View the full Burberry Summer 2024 runway collection in the gallery below.

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Next stop: Burberry Street

If the Riccardo Tisci-era saw Burberry taking over beach clubs with the TB Monogram, Daniel Lee’s appears to be more subdued and tastefully so. As part of the brand’s announced "Burberry Streets" takeover series, the British brand has kicked things off right at home during London Fashion Week. In partnership with Transport for London—the government body responsible for the transport network in London—Bond Street station has been completely transformed into Burberry Street, complete with signs rendered in Lee's knight blue hue. The takeover will last until 19 September 2023. “Burberry Streets” is set to be an immersive brand experience consisting of events and installations in cities around the world. The series will make its rounds in Seoul and Shanghai this October.

Balmain pieces stolen in Paris

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In what would be any fashion designer's foremost nightmare, Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing revealed on Instagram that pieces from the house's upcoming Spring/Summer 2024 runway show have been stolen. "More than 50 Balmain pieces stolen," Rousteing says, expressing his anger and disappointment at the loss of the hard work by his team. With just 10 days to go to the show during Paris Fashion Week, it does seem like Rousteing and his team will have to, in his words, "work days and night" to ensure that everything turns out as planned.

adidas' latest with Craig Green

A new take on adidas' iconic Stan Smiths has been revealed, courtesy of British fashion designer Craig Green. The CG SPLIT STAN retains the original silhouette of the shoe save for the "splitting" right down the middle—a rubber protrusion that's seemingly inserted between the two segments. The new design has dropped in three monochromatic colourways: white, black, and khaki.

The adidas Originals and Craig Green CG SPLIT STAN sneakers are now available through the adidas App and online.

Stone Island's artistic endeavour

Stone Island is embarking on a multi-year partnership with Frieze. Starting with Frieze London 2023—happening this 11 to 15 October—the brand will be the Official Partner of Focus, a fixture dedicated to younger galleries at Frieze London, Los Angeles, New York, and Seoul. Participating emerging galleries of Focus will each receive a bursary from Stone Island amounting to 30 per cent of each exhibitor's stand fee (in addition to Frieze's ongoing subsidies) as well as overall amplification of Focus through a dedicated content series. Stone Island will also become the Official Partner of Frieze 91, the organisation's membership programme. Frieze 91 allows members so gain exclusive access to art and artists through curated experiences as well as members-only content and benefits.

A Moncler icon revisited

As part of Moncler's RE/ICONS series—an annual celebration of the brand's iconic achievements of the past while looking to the future—the brand has revived its 1954 Karakorum duvet jacket. Worn by climbers in 1954, the Moncler Karakorum is known for its unparalleled warmth as well as technical excellence. Just how excellent, you ask? Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli each wore the Moncler Karakorum while scaling K2 and becoming the very first people to reach the summit in 1954. For the RE/ICONS series, the Moncler Karakorum has been reenvisioned in three designs (with a range of colours) varying in length and fit.

Shiny, simmering, splendid

In Coach's latest campaign, Dove Cameron, Yanfei Song, Lil Buck, and newly appointed global ambassador Youngji Lee battle their inner demons. It might sound a bit too dark for a fashion campaign but the "demons" in question are doppelgängers criticising their choice of wearing the Coach Shine collection—a range of metallic and patent leather pieces. The individual duos battle it off in fast-paced choreography before the expressive selves eventually triumphs. Basically, no one should ever dull your shine, Coach Shine or not.

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