Il bel vestire, an inherently Italian mindset of turning up well, is something we could all adopt. It shouldn’t entirely be a new concept to any of us, however. The idea of making an effort to turn up for something in a put-together manner is a sign of respect. Not only for the person one is meeting or the event but, most importantly, for one’s self.
It’s no surprise that Brunello Cucinelli has been an unyielding believer of this. Since its inception in 1978, the Italian brand associated with gentle luxury has charted a path of crafting contemporary menswear steeped in sartorial excellence. Its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection focuses on elements that have been exalted as menswear staples and that are interpreted in Brunello Cucinelli’s effortless stylings.
The collection is rooted in ’80s-styled choices. Nothing is slim-fitted or stays close to the skin. Outerwear—a selection of decadent trench coats, overcoats and peacoats—sit squarely on the shoulders with a tailored cut that aims to enhance the physique, yet imbued with an elegant ease. Suiting retains an air of formality, but at the same time, designed to be versatile for most occasions (or non-occasions). The colour palette is one that’s familiar to any Brunello Cucinelli follower: soft and earthy to further emphasise the collection’s ease and versatility.
Lest we forget, tailoring isn’t the be all and end all of sartorial elegance. The collection’s knitwear stand out with tactile craftsmanship, the likes of waffle stitches, flecked yarns and mélange treatments, while shaped into cosy volumes with a refined structure. They’re not afterthoughts; shawl-collared cardigans are washed with soft colours decorated with geometric motifs that, again, call to the ’80s but paired with a denim shirt. You’d easily do a double-take not because of the offbeat choice, but rather in how the pairing makes complete sense and looks just as exceptional.
As it has with the rest of its collections, Brunello Cucinelli executes Autumn/Winter 2024 with a materials-first approach. But this time around, the focus is sharpened to ensure versatile functionality. While there is a certain structure apparent throughout the collection, the materials are kept luxurious with a soft and lightweight hand-feel to exude that signature Brunello Cucinelli ease. Blended fabrics help to elevate even the most casual of pieces as synthetic fibres are combined with the natural, balancing functionality with luxury.
Brunello Cucinelli might deal in the luxury fashion space but it is fair to say that the brand is a way of life—one that is all about turning up and doing it so respectfully well.
It was a strong start to Milan Fashion Week Men's. Moschino's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show—the first men's show by creative director Adrian Appiolaza—made little effort to hide what the collection was all about. The show set was decorated with towers of a cacophony of luggage and suitcases, and the show invite was essentially an electronic boarding pass.
The obvious kitsch could have come up as rather generic, or worse, predictable. But this is Moschino we're talking about. It was great seeing Appiolaza staying true to the spirit of the brand.
It's clear from the very first look—an Inspector Gadget-esque coordination paired with a heart-shaped briefcase—that Appiolaza intends on keeping Moschino, well, Moschino. Look after look, there was a sense of oddity that was captured in the form of an exaggerated accessory or a truly unfathomable styling of an office worker blue shirt with a sarong. The idea of the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection was one of individual expression and exploration, with each look barely having any resemblance to any other in the line-up.
The collection's theme afforded Appiolaza to take reference from cultures around the world. The soundtrack was engineered to echo these adaptations—as an instrumental percussion-heavy song played towards the end, floral garlands (reminiscent of Indian floral garlands or leis) dressed models in a number of ways.
One accessory that definitely was not difficult to miss and probably spoke the loudest was a watermelon clutch. The press notes say nothing of the intent of the specific accessory. It may be a nod to Moschino's watermelon prints and appliqués that the brand has done in the past, revisited and reworked. But given the context of the collection as well as what's happening in the world right now, it's not too farfetched to say that Appiolaza made quite a statement.
The fit: There was hardly anything serious about the collection, other than the fact that the concepts were strong while still remaining wearable in the real world. Deconstruction and reconstruction made way for interesting silhouettes, including a polo tee riddled with multiple collars on the back and front, a white shirt affixed with multiple long sleeves at its hem, and a pinstriped coat paired with a printed white shirt with both looking as though they went through a paper shredder.
The details: The Moschino Love heart ran rampant throughout the collection. Like the aforementioned briefcase, a smaller heart-shaped bag made of wicker came decorated with floral tendrils. It also wouldn't be Moschino without prints and they ran the gamut from artistic still lifes to trompe-l'œil renderings of office-appropriate accessories on blue shirts.
Three exceptional looks: Look 3's functionality pushed to the extreme; the button-riddled suiting of look 12; and the trompe-lœil casualness of look 54.
The takeaway: Fashion hasn't lost its ability to seduce, inspire, not take itself too seriously, while at the same time, express what matters most.
View the full Moschino Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
"The care of style is the care of instinct," reads the introduction of Brunello Cucinelli's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection. The brand stuck close to its Italian craftsmanship and understated style, but adopts a fresher silhouette that speaks to evolving tastes in menswear—because it's only instinctive to continue to change albeit progressively.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is defined by light, breathable fabrics, with a palette grounded in earthy neutrals—warm beige, soft greys, and washed whites—interrupted by summer brights the likes of blues and cherry blossoms.
The fit: Cucinelli’s approach to tailoring this season, while still grounded in the brand’s signature elegance, has brought about slightly loosened silhouettes with soft-shouldered blazers and more relaxed trousers that lend a carefree, easygoing feel. This relaxed approach is in tune with a wider trend toward comfort in menswear, but Cucinelli executed it in a way that felt inherently polished.
While, yes, there's an inherent evolution of the brand's style, that's not to say that Brunello Cucineli has gone rogue. The collection still referenced signature '70s and '80s design details and silhouettes, recontextualising them for the now. There's something to be said about timeless style and elegance and while they may come across as referential or seemingly backward, there's hardly anything wrong with something as classic as a camp collar peeking over a linen blazer.
The details: What looked exceptionally chic (but once again, nothing specifically new) was Brunello Cucinelli's layering of T-shirts and knitwear with blazers. At the presentation in Milan, a number of vintage-looking souvenir T-shirts depicting key tourist attractions around the world added touches of modern flair to its exceptional tailoring. The collection's lookbook further emphasises on knitwear as one of the stars of the collection with thick-ribbed, crew-neck sweaters for more casual finesse.
The takeaway: A fresh yet familiar approach that’s as suited to the evolving landscape of men’s fashion as it is rooted in tradition.
View the full Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.
