Do not think of Loro Piana as “quiet luxury”. The Italian brand has been around for 100 years and remains one of the foremost producers of top-quality fabrics used by every luxury fashion house from Yves Saint Laurent to Giorgio Armani to Savile Row’s own Huntsman. Anyone with a go-to tailor would be more than familiar with Loro Piana pre-Succession, as it’s constantly name-dropped by tailors as one of their offerings as a mark of quality.
Ardent customers of Loro Piana are able to distinguish a Loro Piana piece quite easily—if not by look, by touch. The incorporation of its signature vicuña colour as trims, the hidden touches of luxurious comfort (a pocket lined with cashmere for instance), the white soles of the Summer Walk loafers, and more are all telltale signs of a Loro Piana creation.
If you are part of the camp unfamiliar with the brand’s classics, the brand is making it easier to do so. The Loro Piana Icons series is a consolidation of 12 key styles the brand has introduced over the years, each originally designed for a specific activity and then further developed into everyday classics. Collectively, the Icons embody Loro Piana’s ethos of masterfully merging functionality, comfort and versatility through the utmost attention to detail.
Consider the Icons series as a mainstay capsule collection. Pieces like the Horsey (a jacket first introduced in 1992 for the Italian Equestrian Olympic team), the formal Spagna jacket, and the impeccably lightweight and roomy Roadster jacket can each be easily worn over the Polo Open shirt or the Neopolitan-inspired André shirt. Finish with the aforementioned White Sole series—choose between the Summer Walk loafers or the Open Walk boots—or the Sergio Walk loafers, and you are pretty much set.
The Icons series is rather outerwear heavy and there is good reason for that. Not only is the brand known for its quality fabrications, it has also come up with a number of nifty design elements and technologies to enhance functionality. Designed with numerous pockets and an adaptable back and waist, the Voyager jacket is also crafted from waterproof fabric to suit the needs of anyone constantly on the move; the Traveller field jacket is similarly constructed with a waist drawstring for that added versatility. The Storm System treatment is central to the Icer jacket—a cashmere ski jacket that is waterproof and wind-resistant—while Windmate makes the Loro Piana Bomber an indispensable sailing companion as it is lightweight and teamed with the warmth of cashmere.
To complete the 12-piece offering is the Grande Unita scarf. It is the oldest design in the series as it was one of the first finished products introduced by Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana in the 1980s. The cashmere scarf is undoubtedly soft to the touch and is the embodiment of timeless elegance, functionality and comfort.
There is no telling if the Loro Piana Icons series is set to grow in the future, including more of its designs into the fold. If there is one contender that could easily find its way into being an Icon it would be the Bale bag. The leather bag was first introduced in Spring/Summer 2023 as part of the womenswear collection, inspired by cashmere bales. For the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection, the Bale is reintroduced in an extra large hobo style for men while still retaining its unlined construction and bulbous shape. And of course, marked by that steely attention to detail and functionality.
So is Loro Piana “quiet luxury”? At least, only to those not in the know.
Considering that RIMOWA has been around for more than a century now, it's inevitable that the brand has evolved. What started out as a brand famed for pioneering aluminium and polycarbonate for use in suitcases—effectively changing the way people travel—is now a luxury lifestyle brand that still puts materiality, innovation and craftsmanship at the forefront.
RIMOWA's biggest shift was in 2020 when it launched its first series of lifestyle bags and accessories parked under the Never Still line. The soft, canvas constructions are trimmed with nylon and leather for hardy, urban-driven solutions that extend the brand's ethos of functional tools for a lifetime of movement beyond the travel space. Around the same time, a collaboration with Dior introduced the Personal case, which is essentially an Original suitcase shrunken into a crossbody bag or clutch, that now remains part of RIMOWA's core offerings and has birthed a Sling Clutch iteration. And just last year, the RIMOWA Signature line was launched with sustainable regenerated nylon as its base material.
Now, four years since its evolution into lifestyle bags and accessories, RIMOWA returns to its game-changing lightweight aluminium innovation for its first unisex handbag, the Original Bag.
Right off the bat, the design of the RIMOWA Original Bag is distinctively RIMOWA—the grooved design emblematic of the brand, the seamless colour-matched aesthetic, and the rounded reinforced corners. Like the Personal, you could consider it as a mini-sized Original suitcase but constructed and designed with updated functionality to adapt for its handbag use. It's crafted in aluminium with a leather handle that's further reinforced with an aluminium frame so that it's both comfortable and sturdy to hold on to as a top-handle bag. A branded webbing strap is included for added versatility so that it can be used as a shoulder bag or a crossbody bag.
Because the Original suitcases' locking mechanism wouldn't make complete sense to be adapted for a handbag (imagine having to fiddle with two clamps every few minutes), RIMOWA devised a new button mechanism that facilitates easy opening and closing of the Original Bag. And if you're familiar with the Original suitcases' handles that snap down flat with that rather satisfying clack, the same mechanism would be a potential annoyance for something that you'd reach for far often than a suitcase. The top handle on the RIMOWA Original Bag stays upright so you're able to grab it and go with ease, but it can also lay flat for a more sleek silhouette when not carried as a handbag. All very clearly thoughtfully crafted.
The interior of the Original Bag is fully lined with Italian-made leather with a roomy compartment. Considered touches include a zipped pocket as well as slots for cards; there's ample space for all that you'd need on the daily to go about your way.
This is a new chapter for RIMOWA and the Original Bag is most certainly just the beginning. You could say that this new design is a longtime coming but as they say, good things come to those who wait. And, boy, isn't this a good one.
The RIMOWA Original Bag in Silver and Black is now available at RIMOWA stores as well as online.
Elsa Peretti never dreamed of having castles in the sky, nor did she wish for money to grow on trees. Despite coming from wealth, the Italian model-turned-designer found herself financially cut off at 21 and had to work her way up. She supported herself by teaching Italian and skiing before deciding to try her hand at modelling, which led her to New York. There, new opportunities unfolded allowing her to showcase her talents.
Peretti began creating pieces for American fashion designer Halston and even had the opportunity to wear them on his runway. Halston later introduced her to Tiffany & Co., and whether it was luck or her undeniable talent, it only took 15 minutes for her to be hired. And five decades later, her work remains iconic and celebrated.
To mark the 50th anniversary of Peretti's icon, the House launched the Bone cuff as part of its "With love, Since 1837" campaign. Reintroduced earlier this year, the campaign celebrates the love, craftmanship and rich heritage that defines Tiffany & Co. and is inspired by legendary window designer Gene Moore. It sheds light on the untold stories behind Tiffany's most iconic jewellery collections while modernising Moore's famous vitrines with imaginative storytelling.
The "With love, Since 1837" campaign imagery draws inspiration from Moore's whimsical window displays, merging the extraordinary with the ordinary. The Bone cuff imagery, specifically, nods to Peretti's cultural impact in fashion as well as design. A floating hand gesturing upward references her signature modelling poses, and a ladybug perched on the index finger, pays tribute to the famed Bone cuff advertisement shot by Hiro, Peretti's close friend and photographer.
The Bone cuff remains as modern and timeless as ever with its sensual, sculptural form. The design is carefully sculpted to fit the contours of both the left and right wrists to allow for the cuff to seamlessly blend with the body. It has since been adapted into a number of other designs, bearing in mind the same design intent.
Like the Bone cuff, the Bone ring showcases Peretti's talent to transform simple forms into symbols of beauty and elegance. The Split ring adds a subtle edge with its central split while still retaining every bit of Peretti's Bone cuff curvatures.
Few designs stand the test of time, but Peretti's jewellery continue to captivate with enduring style and beauty.
The Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff by Elsa Peretti collection is now available in stores and online.
Much can be said about style and functionality. They're often two sides of the same coin, yet to be able to exist harmoniously in a way that makes perfect sense requires equal parts technical know-how and a great sense of taste. Montblanc has both.
The brand known for its artistry in crafting writing instruments, has made a name for itself translating the same level of craftsmanship and attention to detail onto timeless style accompaniments. Luxurious bags and leather goods, travel and tech accessories, as well as timepieces are designed to not only last, but be part of one's journey through a life well-lived.
South Korean actor Lee Jin-wook—most recently starring in Netflix's Sweet Home as well as a new cast member of the much-awaited second season of Squid Game—showcases just how well Montblanc crafts pieces that are meant to be classic mainstays. Paired with equally classic menswear silhouettes, you'd be hard-pressed to not be able to find a Montblanc piece you wouldn't be able to integrate into your own style.
Photography: JDZ Chung
Fashion Editor: Kim Yujin
Styling: Lee Hajeong
Grooming: Gu Hyeonmi
Production: TwelveSixteen
Styling Assistant: Zoe Lee
Assistant: Sin Dongju
Art Designer: Kim Daeseon
For his first menswear collection for Gucci, creative director Sabato De Sarno focused on strengthening house codes seen through a more modern lens. The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection saw accessories making their own statements—distinct in form yet not brashly shouting to be heard. Dressed in the House's now signature Rosso Ancora shade, staples like the Double G belt and the Horsebit loafers-turned-creepers reflect a renewed Gucci aesthetic.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistant: Chay Wei Kang
It's not often that we're afforded the opportunity to bear witness to the birth of a legend—they're considered "legendary" for a reason. Son Heung-Min is one, a legend whose football skills have earned him critical acclaim and a number of accolades, while at the same time, possessing the charm and charisma of a seasoned public personality. And let's not kid ourselves, Son also has the mug of a model.
We'd go as far as to say that the partnership between Son and TUMI has been a seamless fit based on those attributes alone. The global ambassador embodies TUMI's dedication to quality, innovation, and style that the latter prioritises in pretty much all of its creations across the different facets of its ever-growing universe.
Son's latest campaign with TUMI is perhaps the most personal yet. The entire campaign was shot at the Tottenham Hotspur Stadium, essentially the second home of the club captain. "I was personally excited for this campaign to be set in my home away from home," he says. "I always value that TUMI is there for me and has my back, whatever journey I’m on." The brand literally has had Son's back for quite a while now too. He's often spotted with an iteration of the Navigation backpack from the Alpha Bravo series that pairs stylishly with both his professional kit as well as his off-duty outfits.
It's no surprise then that the latest campaign highlights the Alpha Bravo as one of the essential companions to Son's fast-paced lifestyle. Looks aside, the Alpha Bravo series' ballistic nylon composition has been a staple signature of TUMI for over three decades. Its hard-wearing strength is a boon for just about anyone living in the fast lane and dispels any worry about their bag falling apart or belongings not being well protected. Couple that with nifty design elements that put function at the very forefront, the Alpha Bravo series is made to outlast and outperform.
Speaking of innovations, the Tegra-Lite® luggage series takes centrestage as Son's travel companion. The series is available in a number of configurations and dimensions (a select few seen in the campaign) and all feature the durable and lightweight Tegris® material commonly used in lifesaving armour, race cars, and professional athletic gear. The shell of every Tegra-Lite® luggage is a composite of many layers that further strengthens the exterior, so you're assured that it'll hold steady against any and every bump along the journey.
Both the Alpha Bravo and Tegra-Lite® excel at being the embodiment of TUMI's key design pillars. The brand takes it a step further this time around—these pieces are not only thoughtfully designed to accompany your journeys, but also to be part of every moment. It ties back to Son; the signature pose that the pro footballer is known for—connecting his index fingers and thumbs together to resemble a camera, and often paired with a smile—after every goal as a means of capturing those moments and holding on to them. TUMI intends on the Alpha Bravo and Tegra-Lite® series to do the same albeit in more tangible ways.
As much as it's uncommon to be living in the same era as a known legend, TUMI's commitment to continuously innovating its function-first approach to design while marrying that with style, is too a rarity in the arena it's in. And if you're in the habit of making memories of just about every moment, the Alpha Bravo and Tegra-Lite® series by TUMI may just be the essential companions to those journeys.
The latest Alpha Bravo and Tegra-Lite® collections are now available at TUMI stores.
I remember my first RIMOWA purchase. It was May 2019 and my then editor-in-chief asked me along to the RIMOWA boutique at Mandarin Gallery after a meeting with a client. He wanted to check out new ones in preparation for an upcoming trip—he already owned a couple of aluminium RIMOWA suitcases then—and thought I should get into the brand.
“It’s an investment,” he proffered, rather convincingly. He has a real knack for persuading someone, just about anyone really, to buy that embroidered Dries Van Noten shirt or that pair of Celine boots that adds a few centimetres to your stature—all me, by the way.
To be fair, I was already contemplating on getting one. I had a few work trips lined up and had a long winter vacation to the States to look forward to, so it wasn’t so much a push into my first purchase as it was a gentle nudge. I went home with an Essential Check-In L in Gloss Green. The polycarbonate construction was a no-brainer because it’s incredibly lightweight and sturdy, and the green... well, I didn’t want to be too boring nor too flashy.
It has been five years and the suitcase has seen its fair share of cargo holds, boots of Uber rides, and hotel rooms. We made it to Italy at a time when you had to fill up pages of forms and undergo Covid-testing to get in and out of the country; it was my companion on my first multiple-transit flights to Egypt; and it saw me through my first full fashion weeks in Milan and Paris.
I’ve added more into my own RIMOWA family since. An Essential Trunk Plus in a Gloss Slate Grey, and most recently, my first aluminium suitcase in the form of an Original Cabin in Silver, have both become quite indispensable travel essentials. I might have entered a cult; I’m not entirely sure about that yet.
But if it’s a cult—it’s not, this is purely a haha I’m a witty writer kind of thing—I’m in it for life. In 2023, RIMOWA introduced a lifetime guarantee for all of its suitcases purchased from 25 July 2022. It means that a RIMOWA customer can easily rock up to a RIMOWA boutique and get any of the functional aspects of a suitcase fixed for the entirety of its lifespan.
“Behind every RIMOWA case is a symphony of German engineering and the dedication of our community—the skilled artisans, passionate owners, and the meticulous repair technicians. Together, we create cases that aren’t just built for life, they truly become a canvas for the enduring spirit of those who journey with us,” says Emelie De Vitis. The senior vice president of product and marketing at RIMOWA is referring to “Ingenieurskunst”, a German word that translates to “the art of engineering”.
Now, RIMOWA isn’t saying that its German engineering is the best there is but rather, that it’s an artistic philosophy that manifests itself in every RIMOWA suitcase. It’s this craftsmanship and know-how honed since the brand’s founding in 1898 that allows each suitcase to be a lifelong companion in whatever journey one goes on.
There’s little doubt that a RIMOWA suitcase can live for multiple lifetimes, as evident from the brand’s many exhibitions that have showcased pieces dating back for more than a century and still remaining functional. A RIMOWA suitcase is engineered for life, able to go through every natural wear and intentional personalisation so it’s not really about how long a suitcase can live for, but rather the life it can live through. The lifetime guarantee aids in this quest for the ultimate luxury item that’s a symbol of a life well lived from the moment it leaves a boutique.
It’s like us going through life. We hit a bump in the road, we pick ourselves up, go through a process of reflecting and fixing what needs to be fixed, and then continue through life again—an applicable cycle for a RIMOWA suitcase.
I haven’t felt the need to send in my suitcases for a fix just yet. They’re still functioning as swimmingly as when I first got them. When the need arises though, I’m confident that any member of my RIMOWA family will be back with me journeying through life without missing a beat.
“It’s an investment.” I hate to give it to him, but he was right.
Pharrell Williams made waves when he was spotted with a custom pair of Tiffany & Co. sunglasses (a stunner totalling 25 carats worth of diamonds). Now that they’re both part of the LVMH family, a proper collaboration only made sense. The Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams collection is iced out with diamonds against spear-shaped links that reference the Atlantean King—both an ode to his love of water as well as the neighbourhood he grew up in.
The basis of the Sulwhasoo The Ultimate S Enriched Water’s vessel is the porcelain white moon jars originating from the Joseon dynasty. The design mirrors the phases of the moon and symbolises the reawakening of skin vitality with The Ultimate S Enriched Water. What is more of a full-circle experience than having age-defying skin, right?
Smart or not, the function of a watch remains the same—tell time and save you time. Samsung’s Galaxy Watch6 does both and more with its enhanced sleep-tracking capabilities—all in one single device—that aid in ensuring you’re getting the best rest at night so you’re energised in the mornings. The Watch6 is also equipped with a larger display and is thinner in size for maximum comfort.
As part of creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first menswear collection for Gucci, the iconic Horsebit loafers get a contemporary update. Chunky soles and Gucci-branded hardware right at the toe lend a punk sensibility that’s both a question and an answer to how he sees the House: Gucci is Gucci.
Is there a better way than how you’re taking your coffee? Sttoke thinks so. Just like how one would swirl a glass of wine, Sttoke’s Swirl cup is meant to heighten the taste of your favourite brew. The two-layered design gently mixes coffee layers evenly with each swirl so that each sip makes for a balanced one. Aromatic molecules that are released are directed for a more all-encompassing coffee-drinking experience. Also, if you’re a klutz, the ceramic Swirl cup is reassuringly shatterproof.
Celebrating its 130th anniversary this year, Longmorn doubles down by sticking to its guns in its dedication to refinement and flavour. With its commitment to producing single malt whiskies that are matured for no less than 18 years, this 22-Year-Old goes beyond the years with a flavour profile that is a rich balance of hazelnut praline and signature toffee.
Considering how iconic the Quatre series is to Boucheron, it’s surprising to know that it has only been around for 20 years. This special milestone piece is the most precious iteration yet with rows of precious stones and PVD to reimagine the four distinct codes of the Quatre. It’s a knockout of a piece but yet something you’d easily wear on the daily.
Lavender is one of the oldest ingredients in perfumery and continues to be reimagined. Issey Miyake Parfums’ latest interpretation dials down the typically powdery sweet nature of lavender with Sichuan pepper and cedarwood for a warm and dry fragrance. L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Solar Lavender is concocted with ethically sourced lavenders from Provence so you know they’re primo.
Loewe’s Puzzle design has quickly become at the forefront of contemporary bag designs. The brand takes it up a few notches with its latest Puzzle Fold tote bag that is crafted from multicoloured raffia. The structural integrity of the design holds thanks to expert raffia-weaving, yet what’s even more amazing is the fact that the bag is still able to pack flat without any force necessary. Now, that’s craft.
The Oblique motif continues to be one that the house and its roster of creative directors return to. In its latest expression, the Dior Gravity Leather, takes the form of an all-leather rendition of the B27 sneakers. The Dior Gravity Leather is seamlessly integrated with the rest of the leather construction that it’s a case of IYKYK.
Photography: Jaya Khidir
Styling: Asri Jasman
Photography Assistants: Ng Kai Ming and Nowo Kasturi
Styling Assistant: Erica Zheng
"I mean, that's my least favourite sport, to be honest," a then 23-year-old Tyler, The Creator told Billboard in 2014, referring to the name of his brand Golf Wang. "I don't know. The word just looks sick." Golf Wang has zero connections to the sport—save for the occasional sweater vest that's a golfwear staple. It's really a playful spoonerism of Wolf Gang, short for the hip-hop collective Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All that Tyler was a part of.
Tyler's sentiments may have changed since. In his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton in its Pharrell Williams era, you'd find a series of golf-inspired accessories, golfwear and actual, usable golf paraphernalia. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men's Capsule Collection by Tyler, the Creator's golf bag is an impressive piece crafted from Damier Golf coated canvas (a grass-green rendition of the maison's signature Damier pattern) trimmed with leather and gold-coloured hardware, and comes with a set of three balls and four tees. It's fitted with a number of nifty pockets, has an umbrella holder, and can carry around a full set of clubs. Louis Vuitton and Tyler are definitely not joshing around.
This isn't Louis Vuitton's first entry into golf. In 2023, the maison introduced a new golf trunk geared towards both professionals and lovers of the sport. Not only does it have dedicated compartments for everything and anything golf-related, it even comes with a Louis Vuitton-branded putting mat for on-the-go practice. The collaboration with Tyler is an indication that the sport is quickly becoming a luxury fashion darling—another avenue for a brand to expand into.
What was once a somewhat exclusionary sport guarded by the confines of a country club has opened up to a wider audience with golf courses made more accessible. Golf's elitist rep has changed of late too, thanks to (as with a lot of other things) the Covid-19 pandemic. With social-distancing protocols in place and indoor spaces seen as potential super-spreader hotbeds, golf became the perfect way of blowing off steam and keeping a safe level of social interaction at a time when congregating in large groups was potentially dangerous. Teeing off in the open space, surrounded by a maximum of four other people, made golf ideal as a much needed mental health break.
The numbers don't lie. The National Golf Foundation in the US noted a record number of people who played golf for the first time in 2023 at 3.4 million. It's a figure that has been consistent since the pandemic; a pre-pandemic record was set in 2000 with 2.4 million beginners. What's even more telling about golf's growing mainstream appeal is that young adults (aged 18 to 34) make up the sport's biggest segment with over 12 million playing both on and off courses.
Unsurprisingly, Louis Vuitton is far from the only brand attempting to capture a growing number of younger players, whether new or seasoned. adidas and BAPE dropped what they called a "golf ready" collection in October 2023 as part of a year-long celebration of the duo's 20th anniversary of collaborating together as well as the latter's 30th anniversary.
Much like Louis Vuitton, adidas and BAPE played up the colour green with a custom pair of Stan Smiths featuring a removable kiltie lace cover rendered in a camo print, a matching heel moustache, a green outsole and green sock liners. The sneakers were complemented by a range of ready-to-wear made to perform on the green while also having a streetwear sensibility. A camo print windbreaker and trousers aren't typically what you'd see on golf courses where plain polo tees and chinos have traditionally reigned supreme, but they're indicative of the kind of energy that the sport is now engaging with.
If adidas and BAPE's collaboration is too much of a statement on the green, brands like Fendi and Berluti offer more timeless proposals with elements of traditional individual iconographies. Released in tandem with the 2023 Ryder Cup, Fendi's golf capsule collection focused on comfort. Cotton bermudas and polo shirts trimmed with the FF logo formed the foundations of the capsule. A hooded windbreaker and a knit gilet completed the ready-to-wear portion, each providing semblances of protection and style.
Berluti took a similar approach. Its golf capsule collection was a classic assortment of jackets, gilets and lightweight knits emblazoned with the Berluti B. A new pair of leather derbies was also introduced, fitted with soles crafted specifically for golf, but with Berluti's signature leather patina panels differentiating it from any other golf-appropriate footwear.
It's always a tricky strategic manoeuvre that brands have to be cognisant of whenever attempting to break into a new segment. Whether it was skateboarding or tennis or basketball, it was always the we're-not-reinventing-the-wheel kind of approach that worked best to capture the attention of a burgeoning scene as well as existing players of the sport. Fendi and Berluti, like Louis Vuitton, offered their own interpretations of the golf bag without straying far from familiar designs. They function just the same—packed with added functionalities for some—and are masterful showcases of the kind of craftsmanship that each brand is known for.
"Following the success of Mr P.'s first golf collection, we are delighted to bring our customers a new range, this time with pieces in partnership with leading golf brand G/FORE," says Olie Arnold, style director at MR PORTER. The online menswear platform launched its latest golf collection last month under its in-house brand Mr P. with a collaboration with G/FORE—a Los Angeles-based golfwear brand.
G/FORE had already found its footing as a contemporary golf brand that's unapologetically youthful, fun and whimsical. You'll find staple classics sitting right next to its brightly-soled Gallivan2r shoes, and patterned polos in tech materials you'd want to wear on the regular. Tapping on the expertise of an existing presence in golf offers a level of credibility that assures consumers the capsule collection isn't mere aesthetics.
Golf is slowly going the way of how tennis has been embraced by the luxury fashion community. Louis Vuitton was an early adopter by signing Naomi Osaka as an ambassador in 2021, followed by Carlos Alcaraz last year. We have yet to see a pro golfer fronting luxury fashion campaigns but that doesn't seem too far away. As it stands, the number of celebs taking up the sport is becoming more visible. DJ Khaled shared a photo of himself on Instagram with his Louis Vuitton golf accessories; Justin Bieber has been consistently playing recreationally for a couple of years now; Travis Scott is also a fan, as are many others.
Yes, there is a renewed resurgence for the sport, marked by a continuous intersection between luxury fashion and lifestyle. But will it stay? That is anybody's guess and it depends on how the golfing community will tap on this uptick to evolve the sport. There needs to be a way to not only make golf more exciting, but also more accessible to a range of income brackets so that not only the Tylers of the world can partake in the joy of the swing.
ESQUIRE: We’re told the spring 2024 collection is inspired by Singapore. Can you tell us more about that and why Singapore in particular?
VICTOR SANZ: Every season, the design team and I sit down and we look for a destination to become our muse. We’re always looking at things that have a cultural relevance—we saw that Singapore was one of the first places to open their doors to the world again. We started focusing into Singapore and realised that everything that’s happening here is in line with what we’re doing as a brand. The idea of balancing heritage with modernity; embracing technology but not abandoning where your roots are; of balancing this world of architecture and progression, but also supporting the environment and nature.
We then started to really dive deep from a cultural standpoint: How are the people living here? What are they doing? How are they doing this? We were inspired by places like Sentosa where we kept seeing these beautiful images of the sunsets. Then the shutters in the market streets with these bright colours of contrast, and they felt very spring to us. We also looked at buildings like the Art Science Museum where it’s a very modern building, but feels very natural and very organic at the same time. So from there, we started building our colour palette and the collections like Asra, where you can see this idea of a soft structure, which continues on to even within the Alpha Bravo series.
ESQ: What are some of the newer innovations you have devised for the collection that you’re proud of?
VS: We continue to bring new innovations every season. There’s a continuous partnership with McLaren and we were able to introduce a new chapter with the Extreme collection where we did these welded waterproof bags. Obviously, Asra, our women’s collection, and of course the 19 Degree series, which was born as a travel collection, but we were figuring out how do we continue to expand this 19 Degree design language into day-to-day uses? This 19 Degree Aluminum minaudière that I carry has a really simple detail. I can just rotate this element and I can put a shoulder strap on there. It becomes now that same archetype of 19 Degree but in a crossbody. And we’ve done a backpack as well. You’re going to continue to see these types of products evolve. We’re kind of pushing in all these directions and always looking at things from the lens of technology and luxury, and always ensuring that we’re bringing something new to our core customer but also bringing in that new customer as well.
ESQ: TUMI is also known for its Alpha Bravo series but there seems to be a more conscious decision to move away from just luggage and into a more lifestyle space, with a golf collection as well as Asra. Is this something that we can expect more from the brand?
VS: Absolutely. I mean, I would say we’re not moving away from the travel side. What we’re doing is we’re continuing to enhance our portfolio. Our biggest muse is the customer. We look at the lifestyle that they’re living. How are they evolving? What does their day-to-day look like? What does it look like when they’re at work? What does work look like for them? What happens post-work? And the more we begin to evolve the world we’re in, we’re bringing products that are enhancing their lives. That’s why you’re seeing things like the golf collection. We see our customers being increasingly engaged in golf and how it’s a new way for them to connect with their friends and peers. It’s a great opportunity for us to bring the very best of what we do at TUMI to a type of collection like that. Additionally, we’re doing fragrances now—we have seven fragrances in the line—eyewear, the crossbodies, women’s products, engaging in the world of sport… It’s really about evolving the brand for our customers.
ESQ: You talk about the customers’ lifestyles when designing for these lifestyle-specific items. Is the design approach slightly different from the travel series, or is it the same?
VS: When we started looking at products that may be more geared towards lifestyle—or what we call the more fashion-forward type products—one aspect where we’ve evolved as a brand, I think at times, is that aesthetics weren’t viewed as a feature. We’ve changed that thinking where aesthetics are a feature. If you feel good or confident about what you’re wearing, you perform better. With a collection like Asra, the thought process was how do we create something that’s very easy and that doesn’t look like it’s burdened with all this extra functionality, but the functionality is there? Similar to even this 19 Degree minaudière. It’s a very simple crossbody, but on the inside, it has a removable leather pouch that magnetises to the back so that when I need to pay for something, I open up the minaudière and I have my money and cards ready to go. Maybe in the past, we’ve had the mentality of always leading with function. Now, the beauty is part of the function.
ESQ: I’m curious to know, because when you talk about the minaudière and having that extra element inside, how many prototypes do you go through before you’re done with editing?
VS: It can depend. I wish I could say we do it once and it’s great. But it can be anywhere from three to upwards of 10, depending on how complex the functionality is. For example with the 19 Degree Aluminum backpack, we spent a lot of time making sure that when you push in the leather monogram patch that the front pocket would pop out. We also spent a lot of iterations where we’re opening up the backpack so that it stays perfectly balanced when opened. Typically, we like to do about at least three prototypes because the other part is test-wearing. And we test-wear everything. A lot of times when I’m travelling, I’m travelling with prototypes because if something’s going to fail, I’d rather it fail while I’m using it so I can fix it.
ESQ: I remember from our previous interaction in Hong Kong in 2019, where you explained how the handle of a TUMI luggage is shaped like a strawberry for better ergonomics.
VS: You remember? This one! (points to the telescopic handle of a luggage nearby)
ESQ: Yeah. It’s one of the things that, if it weren’t pointed out to me, I wouldn’t have necessarily realised it. Have you come across customers who have pointed out nuances like that in your designs?
VS: It’s a really interesting thing. People don’t notice good design because it just works. That’s the goal. It sounds a bit ironic, right? You spend so much time, energy and thought into it, and when a customer uses it, it just becomes kind of back-of-mind. But when something is poorly designed, that’s when you really, really take notice. That’s why we spend so much time really analysing the details—testing, feeling and going through these motions where they just need to feel and work so right that you don’t even notice them. From a design and creative perspective, it makes me quite happy when people say that something feels or works right. But, hey, very good memory. I’m very impressed.
ESQ: It’s definitely a takeaway that has stuck. Now, on to collaborations. The way TUMI approaches collaborations is perhaps quite different from its contemporaries. With TUMI, there seems to be a preference to collaborate with more lifestyle-driven partners and artists as opposed to say, a fashion brand or streetwear. Why is that?
VS: TUMI has always been looking at a wide breadth of people to collaborate with. We’ve collaborated with fashion houses like Missoni, athletes, jewellery designers, artists etc.. For us, it’s always been about people that are very true to who we are as a brand. But also we’re looking beyond into that future customer, right? I’m going to collaborate with people that are multifaceted, that people can relate to and understand. There’s a future-forward thinking for the brand as well. So this is why we’re always kind of looking at it through our own lens. There was a time when everyone was collaborating and you didn’t know what the hell was happening—every week was another collaboration and everyone just got very caught up in this hype. For us, we’ve always held true to what we feel is authentic to us. How do we connect with them? And then how do we support them on their mission? It’s never really been about wanting to collaborate for hype sake.
ESQ: And now we have brand ambassadors being announced every week. You mentioned how the customer is the driving force behind designing at TUMI. But when it comes to brand ambassadors, do they also influence you as well? Or are they more of like a manifestation of the TUMI customer?
VS: When we started getting into brand ambassadors, we were looking for people who embody the truth of the brand. When we started with Lando Norris, not only is he a fantastic F1 driver, but he’s also this hungry, young athlete who’s starting his own businesses and establishing himself. The same thing with Son Heung-min—an amazing, established Asian athlete within a European team, which is also quite international and it poses its own challenges. It was this amazing storyline that connects with us. As we were starting our journey within this new women’s category with Asra, we thought about having an ambassador who embodies not only who we are about but also this new customer. Mun Kayoung is an amazing person to begin with and she’s so humble. We’re saying that we want that type of aesthetic and that type of strength to come through to our products.
It’s always a challenge to find that perfect connection, but so far, we’ve been quite lucky to have people that love the brand. When we start having conversations with them, it’s very, very authentic. They travel with the brand and that always makes it very, very easy to kind of make everything happen.
ESQ: It seems very organic.
VS: Absolutely. You’d be surprised how many times we sit down, and they’re like, “Oh yeah. I’ve been travelling with TUMI for 12 years, 10 years...”
ESQ: This is a bit of a throwback to 2019. When asked what were some of the best things about being a creative director at TUMI, you said, “It’s amazing to dream an idea and have it come to fruition.” Has anything changed since then?
VS: Yes. It’s still amazing to be able to dream something and bring it to fruition, but I think what’s changed is that the dreams now are becoming ever more vivid. It almost feels like there’s an endless sense of possibility. In 2019, I would never have imagined I’d be sitting here showing you this 19 Degree Aluminum minaudière and backpack. To be able to see the brand and customer base continue to grow but also being able to still push the brand in different directions, that’s been fantastic.
ESQ: You’ve been at TUMI now for more than 20 years, which is insane to think about.
VS: You’re telling me!
ESQ: I just want to know, what keeps you inspired?
VS: Every day I walk in, I have an amazing team. We have people on that team who I’ve worked with for the past 20 years as well as people into their first year, and every day, we are constantly pushing ourselves. I was up at 1:30am this morning on a call with the team in New York working on a project for the future. We’re talking about the smallest of details, but with the intensity of it being the next biggest collection. And that’s what really kind of continues to feed this creative energy. We want to make a difference with the elements that we put in. And I get to work on just some of the most interesting products. I’m very humbled and blessed to have had 20 years. I mean, just like that, it’s been 20 years. And you and I have been on a journey now for exactly five years. Who would have thought?
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
In season five of Friends, there's an episode aptly titled "The One With Joey's Bag". The central narrative was of Joey Tribbiani (played by Matt LeBlanc), having received a bag from Jennifer Aniston's Rachel as part of his desire to fit into a role of "a real clothes horse" that he's auditioning for, falling in love with said bag. But of course, given that it was 1999, his friends found every opportunity to ridicule him for even carrying the bag.
You'd think that the bag was in a ghastly shade of pink or a tiny purse that could barely fit anything (even so, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a man wanting to carry either) but in actual fact, it's reminiscent of a top-handle briefcase that's far from extraordinary in today's context.
How times have changed, and thankfully so.
The best bags this season are big. They're made to fit more than just the essentials, with some having the capability to be versatile enough to transition from work bag to gym bag. And of course, because we're all for longterm investments, they're crafted from sturdy and luxurious materials that'll not only last but age well too. From Loewe's latest Pebble Bucket bag to Bottega Veneta's massive tote, we've curated some of the best bags of the season made for every man that you are.
Photography: Shawn Paul Tan
Styling: Asri Jasman
Grooming: Kenneth Chia using KEVIN.MURPHY and TOM FORD BEAUTY
Photography Assistant: Xie Feng Mao
Styling Assistant: Chua Xin Xuan
Model: Aaron C at MANNEQUIN
Artistic director Kim Jones continues to expand Dior Men’s visual vocabulary in a manner that respects and upholds the legacy of the House. His latest—for the Fall 2024 collection—looks at reimagining the Dior Oblique motif once again.
Debuted in the Dior Men Winter 2023 collection, the Dior Oblique Gravity was the medium of choice to launch a new iteration of the Dior Saddle, dubbed the Dior Saddle Boxy. The Dior Oblique Gravity was introduced in a number of rich, bold hues that highlighted its characteristic patent leather sheen, with the embossed grooves providing a kind of tonal gradation.
For Fall 2024, Jones introduces an update. Where the Dior Oblique Gravity was visually more robust, the Dior Gravity Leather is its softer cousin in more ways than one.
Unlike its predecessor, the Dior Gravity Leather employs the use of grain-textured leather for a more matte finish. The embossing technique itself is a work of art that reflects the house’s handcrafted approach in everything that it dabbles in. Instead of a typical embossing technique where pressure is manually applied to create the desired pattern, the Dior Oblique motif visible on the latest expression is created though a unique technique that delicately marks the leather with the aid of gravity. The result is an almost barely-there appearance across a selection of small leather goods and bags.
The Dior Gravity Leather is available in more muted shades of beige, black and khaki. Small leather goods, such as a belt and a cardholder, are dressed in the motif’s original scale, while bags are given a blown-up, maxi version for a play of proportions. The latter includes the Dior Hit The Road backpack that strikes a beautiful balance of luxury fashion and ruggedness in one refined piece.
