It was early evening when I arrived at Somma; a little ahead of my reservation and already brimming with curiosity. I was greeted by a door straight out of a sci-fi novel on the second floor. Inside the bohemian, intimate 36-seater space, raw artworks made from seeds, pods and roots stood on concrete plinths. A wall of Italian roof tiles, chosen by Puglian chef Mirko Febbrile himself, added texture and warmth to the soft, beige-toned room.
Almost instantly, the amuse-bouches appear like miniature offerings. First, a house broth served in an artichoke vessel with its centre hollowed then sealed with beeswax made for a welcome start. The ensuing Mammole artichoke with perch lardo and peppers had a lovely groundedness, though leaned a tad on the saltier side.
A complimentary soup topped with friar’s beard and bread with a faint aroma of burnt wheat arrived before commencing the courses. The savoury and smoky flavours were overt on their own, but came together nicely.
Febbrile's approach, Solterra, i.e. sun and earth, draws on the elements that shaped life in Southern Italy. It’s less about what’s in season and more about evolving with nature’s rhythm. A reflection of the chef's Puglian roots; a celebration of life’s energy and the land’s deep wisdom which we see in the following courses.
I’ll admit I’m not usually a fan of white asparagus, but the appetiser made me reconsider. The produce itself beautifully cooked, but it was the sauce that transformed the dish. So rich and velvety, it led to a bit of a clumsy slip on my part.
The Spaghettone is crafted from khorasan wheat and dressed in a red carrot reduction; the syrupy remains of simmering a whopping 20kg carrots. The mantis shrimps invoked freshness, while the carrot scoby—a byproduct of homemade kombucha—lent a soft acidity to the dish.
In similar vein, the razor clams with wild garlic foraged along coastal paths was another comforting dish of the night. The hint of sweetness from the mussels harvested from Mare Piccolo in Taranto nuanced the Quadretti pasta.
Next came something entirely new to me: pig’s snout braised in rice wine, soy and spices, then grilled with a rich tomato BBQ glaze. This signature dish serves with two sauces—a creamy Vacche Rosse fondue with smoky onions, and a black bread sauce with crispy crumbs. Plus, a little lentil cracker topped with freshly grated cheese. Once again, the sauces balanced the tender meat.
As a meat lover, the milk fed lamb was a clear favourite. The dish is rooted in the traditions of Puglia’s Easter tables, yet elevated for Somma. The lamb, grilled over almond wood, was falling away from the bone with the gentlest nudge. Accompanying was a matching purée and peasant salad—a rustic mélange of 26 ingredients including cherries and myrtle, that delivered the complexity the dish needed.
The desserts were no less imaginative, and presented in two acts. In an ice cube holding a perfectly delicate bite and wrapped with mochi, the panna cotta filled with yogurt and almond kernel panna felt light and airy. The lacto-fermented loquat broth, infused with ginger, osmanthus and eucalyptus honey gave the heavy dairy palate a bittersweet tint.
Lastly, we finished with what truly felt like summer on a plate. With toasted corn praline (earthy purple corn from South America, rustic Italian yellow corn, and delicate Hokkaido white corn) for crunch and marmalade essence for a citrus touch, the creamy American Pale Ale ice cream became a refreshing sip of nostalgia.
Through an encounter, you learn that Somma reimagines pairing. It's a fresh perspective in tone set against a deeply personal (and edible!) medium for Puglian storytelling. And if you’re so inclined, Somma also offers culinary masterclasses for those who wish not only to eat, but to step into the world behind the curtain.
Somma is located at 46 Kim Yam Rd, #04-02 New Bahru, Singapore 239351
