The Maya Angelou quote (attribution debatable) comes to mind. The one that people will forget what you said, what you did, but they will never forget how you made them feel. Dining is no different. It's why food reviews don't solely opine on the dishes. Service, ambience, and a variety of factors take stake in the impression. So cliche as it sounds, the Chef's Table at Shisen Hanten hosts an intimate culinary experience more than a seasonal menu update.
A mandatory little backgrounder on the Japanese-Szechwan restaurant hailing from Japan. Founded by Szechwan-born, esteemed Chef Chen Kenmin and succeeded by "Iron Chef" son Chef Chen Kenichi; the legacy's third-generation heir, Chef Chen Kentaro, then established his own outpost here in Singapore. That's a concise version of the rich gastronomic heritage carried forward; which has since earned multiple Michelin nods.
Now on its 11th year and fresh from an interior facelift, Shisen Hanten unveils its latest eight-course journey, with the option for an eight-seater encounter with the hands behind the meal.
Luxury is all about the devil in the details, so when your hand towel comes smelling of fragrant Japanese cedar, you know no aspect of your upcoming meal will be insignificant.
The Assorted Seasonal Appetiser in Japanese Hassun Style is a beautiful introduction to Chūka Szechwan Ryori. It's honestly the best of both worlds when Japanese craft is touched by a tinge of spice that we locals love. Presented cohesively in a box of wonders, the six starters housed in individual intricate Japanese ware becomes an interactive teaser.
It says a lot that the Century Egg Tofu with Shishito Pepper is a personal favourite as someone who does not uh, fully understand how to appreciate the distinct taste of century egg. The yolk is strained and added into a pepper paste (of dry-fried Shishito that's then finely chopped for an hour, apparently); while the white is used as garnish. Together with a medley of Japanese, Thai and local seasonings, it transforms into a delightful trickery on your tongue--something familiar, yet pleasantly not quite.
Ensuing courses display keen flavour mastery. The warm, earthy comfort of Matsutake wrapped in tender Xiao Long Bao skin served with a lightly savoury Dobin Mushi. The sweet spice of a viscous housemade kung pao sauce generously drenching a crunchy tempura shell of a wok-fried oyster; a signature of the Tokyo restaurant making a debut in Singapore.
A Hiyama Sea Cucumber is meticulously rehydrated across three days to achieve an unreal gelatinous consistency, then braised in an umami balance of Chinese cooking wine, Japanese sake and superior stock. I suspect the Spring Roll is the one you recall after you leave for the indulgent contrast of 18-month-aged French Comté cheese hotly oozing out of its perfectly crisp exterior on each bite; topped, no less, with Oscietra caviar.
Or perhaps it's the A5 Wagyu Beef Shabu-shabu. Not just because you get to eye the marbled goodness before it's swashed in the broth, but how the kyushu green onion and Kyoto kujo negi in sesame oils add an appreciatively complex dimension to the meat.
The signature Chen's Mapo Tofu is no small contender despite its size. Sure, you may not be able to discern how the three-year aged bean paste is specially sourced from Pi Du District in Chengdu, but the texture alone sets it in a class of its own. And its chew with claypot-cooked Hokkaido pearl rice just hits different.
The meal concludes with a parfait of Japanese persimmon slices and a house-made ice cream of the fruit; adorned by a chilled Szechwan jelly and shao xing wine-infused cream. Do have the sparkling teas accompany you through the affair; it's pretty much an oriental spritz that matches the cuisine.
Now, the best chefs are the unpretentious ones chefs (how can one tell? They don't lose their minds over the order of the parts of the dish you eat first). Being at the Chef's Table is enjoyable when you witness how each component is created, while the chef journeys alongside to craft an experience demonstrating a flawless level of attention.
Shisen Hanten is located at Level 35 Hilton Singapore Orchard, Singapore 238867. To enjoy the Autumn Menu in the Chef’s Table Room, a minimum spend from SGD2,304 is required.
