Let’s settle this here and now: Who made the first wristwatch? According to Guinness World Records, the earliest one was a custom piece created in 1868 for a Hungarian Countess named Koscowicz—though this glittering accessory functioned more as jewellery than as a timekeeper. But whispers in horological circles tell of an earlier creation—one made by watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810, predating Countess Koscowicz’s by several decades. So, who gets the rightful claim to the first wristwatch? We may never know for certain. What we do know, however, is who made wristwatches available to everyday people, breaking societal norms and shifting perceptions that the then-feminine wristwatch could be worn by men too. In an era when women were treated as second-class citizens, Cartier not only convinced men to commit the "cardinal sin" of strapping bracelets onto their wrists but managed to make them willingly pay for it.
It’s 1901, and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont is wrestling with his aircraft controls while trying—and failing—to pull out his pocket watch to check the time. In a moment of frustration, he confides in his friend, Louis Cartier. Little did they know, that conversation would change the course of history. Three years later, the original Santos De Cartier watch was born. But it wasn’t until 1911 that Cartier began producing it for commercial sale. This, of course, had a ripple effect, leading to a world today where people still struggle to fathom that wristwatches were originally created for women. Had Cartier not popularised wristwatches commercially, who knows how long it would’ve taken for wristwatches to catch on, if at all. But thanks to the Santos De Cartier, I guess we’ll never know.
Louis Cartier quite clearly wanted to break the wheel—to reinvent it. So, in a world full of circles, he did so, quite literally. Naturally, the Santos De Cartier is also the first square wristwatch. While the watch has evolved over time, the core of Cartier’s vision remains. The corners are rounded, softening the contact against the wrist. Distinctive Roman numerals stretch to the bezel’s edge, ingeniously accompanied by black markers to ensure accurate legibility. And, of course, the iconic eight rivets that punctuate the bezel to the case still remain. These rivets eventually extended into metal bracelets, replacing the original leather.
Now, Cartier attempts to reinvent the wheel—sorry, square— once again with the Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time. This latest evolution sees the inclusion of a complication that makes perfect sense considering the watch’s aviation history. Powered by a customised automatic movement featuring dual time zone capabilities, you can now track time both where you are and where you’re from simultaneously. Alternatively, you can set it to where your best friend is (shoutout Cartier and Santos-Dumont). The second time display features a 12-hour format with an AM/PM indicator, enveloped by a grey sundial finished in satin, lending it a brilliant metallic lustre. Just outside, polished steel meets brushed bezel, framing the silver tones of the dial in perfect harmony. The Santos De Cartier’s evolution doesn’t stop here, though.
Other latest iterations, like the Santos-Dumont Rewind, also showcase Cartier's 177-year jewellery expertise with innovations like the SmartLink system, which allows the bracelet length to be adjusted with the push of a button to either remove or add metal links. Prefer a vintage look? The QuickSwitch system lets you swap between metal, calf, or alligator straps in seconds, also with the push of a button.
In a world obsessed with the next big thing, and in an industry constantly chasing trends, some houses stand apart. For a select few, like Cartier, their legacy endures through iconic timepieces. The Santos De Cartier doesn’t need to chase trends—it is history, reimagined and refined for generations to come.
