It was very fair to assume that Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello would thread along the lines of the aesthetic that he's refined for the House for a couple of years now. Sleek, almost '80s-inspired classic elegance has permeated the collections of late—a more confident and singular take of Saint Laurent's heritage than when he first took over as creative director. And it did seem as though Vaccarello was about to present a Winter 2025 menswear collection that was just that; the dramatic, couture-like staging of the Bourse de Commerce certainly alluded to it.

But it was clear from the very first look that Vaccarello had no intention of being predictable, and dare we say, bland.

The fit: Aside from the impeccable tailoring that Yves Saint Laurent is known for, the late founder is had a habit of creating a sort of tension in his creations. There was always a twist to the mundane that was either felt or seen. It's this juxtaposition that became Vaccarello's starting point for the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection.

The now-signature Saint Laurent tailoring—strong shoulders, roomy and languid—was paired with knee-high leather boots that sat somewhere between horse-riding boots and leather-kink. From where I was seated, the boots were kept rather minimal, with simple construction lines creating a promising roomy (and comfortable) fit and a buckle to keep things secure right at the top.

There's no question that it's a jarring proposal, but that's the point. In the collection's more British-leaning looks with Prince of Wales checks, however, they're less peculiar—take it as a gentleman who rides a horse to the office or just someone who'd rather not get his trousers muddied and wet. And when the boots were worn over leather trousers in some looks, there's a seamlessness that's quite beautiful to look at.

The details: Vaccarello is a master at creating contrasts with the slightest tweak. For this collection, it was the upturned cuffs that became a styling leitmotif throughout almost every look. It's typically a style that I'm not exactly fond of, but in this instance, it worked to balance out the juxtaposition with the boots and gave the tailoring a tad bit of a rakish, casual air.

Three exceptional looks: The black double-breasted suiting in look 3 paired with the collection's knee-high boots that further emphasises on the strong shoulders; look 17's poppy combination that's just effortlessly cool; and the aristocratic flair of the closing look perfect for a winning red carpet fit.

The takeaway: When it comes to style, keeping everyone on their toes to expect the unexpected does it sometimes; a little bit of juxtaposition always keeps things interesting.

View the full Saint Laurent Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.