When I found out that the Rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce—Pinault Collection was being taken over by artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot's installation, I was curious how that would affect the staging of the Saint Laurent Summer 2026 menswear show. "clinamen" takes up almost the entirety of the space. Would the installation be covered for the runway show? Or would it be part of it? It turned out to be the latter. Clever.
Unlike the madness of Paris Fashion Week Men's, "clinamen" is essentially somewhat of a respite, turning the Rotunda into a space of reverie. The 18-metre diameter basin floats white porcelain bowls and pushes them along with light currents, creating melodious clinks that offer quite the meditative experience. Standing around it feels as though time stands still; a momentary escape from everything.
In some ways, that's what creative director Anthony Vaccarello envisioned for the Saint Laurent Summer 2026 menswear collection—a suspended moment. Referencing Paris and Fire Island as two counterpoints, the collection combined elegance with desire, all while paying tribute to gay artists Larry Stanton, Patrick Angus, and Darrell Ellis whose lives and careers were shortened due to AIDS but whose works "gave face to silent desires".
The fit: Apart from the more nuanced resonance between the collection and the art, "clinamen" provided a stunning backdrop for a collection that was intentional with its use of colour. Signature Saint Laurent jewel tones were on full display, stacked against one another in colour-blocked masterclass as well as monochromatic treatments that felt purposeful in telling the story of restrained desires.
The shoulders were beautifully sculpted and even in the most sheer of pieces, beautifully juxtaposing with the more relaxed cuts of the overall silhouette. Waists were cinched with paper bag trousers that added moments of sculptural elegance, while fabrications were kept incredibly light with silk and paper-thin nylon.
A certain rakishness—a styling device that's been put into play for a few seasons now—was intact. The carefully calculated tying of coat belts (in a contrasting colour, no less) all while revealing the layers within, as well as the pushing up and upturning sleeves showcase a casual elegance that evokes a sense of sensuality.
The details: We of course need to talk about the ties. Almost all the looks were paired with a tie, and we all know that Vaccarello is one of the stalwart believers in ties not being dead. This time around, they're tucked into the shirt just before the second shirt button. There's a bit of military nod to this, and at the same time, suggests a desire to reveal as much as conceal—at least to me.
There were also a number of short shorts (they seem to be quite a big trend for Spring/Summer 2026) on display. They were fashioned after a pair that a young Yves Saint Laurent was pictured wearing. Vaccarello's versions were beautifully pleated and grazed at just the right length that just about anyone could pull one off.
Three exceptional looks: Look 10's classic tailoring colours made anew and worn with chunky sunglasses; the sheer magic of look 15 ;and the standout addition of a fluorescent top layer in look 32.
The takeaway: Quell the chaos with a healthy dose of dopamine-inducing colours.
View the full Saint Laurent Summer 2026 menswear collection in the gallery below.
