I have been to Desaru before. I likely won't forget about my first visit there, but not for the reasons you'd imagine. A classic case of Looked Better In Pictures. Catfished by a resort, if you will. It wasn't a particularly terrible night; facilities were functional and the advertised beach diligently lived up to its reputation. Yet, the one thing I remember was failing to fall asleep when dark fell, due to how unsafe I felt with the sheer lack of guests on the property.
Fast forward a couple of years to when the pandemic was just around the corner. Early announcements of One&Only debuting an outpost on the touristy Malaysian coast were circulating. Significant, being the first Southeast Asian destination of the brand's five-star portfolio. Sadly, as the world then came to a standstill, so did further news on the latest addition.
Thus when presented the opportunity to finally to pop by for a stay while attending the signature Four Hands of its Embers Beach Club, the conclusion is obvious. Chiefly that with One&Only, what you see is what you get.
You arrive to a verdant lawn framed by parallel blocks on both sides. Tread away from the lobby and the green cascades towards the main pool, an emerald runway symmetrically flanked by daybeds as it reaches for the ocean. The visual narrative of neat lines is inherited from its esteemed architect Kerry Hill, whose work here was ultimately a swan song before his passing.
The tropical retreat is likely not the only one that's home to over 80 species of flora and fauna, but preserving the original habitation was very much a deliberate decision. You'll find trees repurposed as signposts, like one that points towards the coordinates of other One&Only resorts.
You can put yourself down for a concise, on-site nature walk (10/10 recommend) as part of the one complimentary daily activity to fully appreciate the forestry of the 1,500 square metre mini kingdom. The most grandiose of the efforts resides at the One&Only Spa.
The intentionality of the space's design is evident, a personal favourite of the entire property I might add. Past the doors of reception, you enter an uncharacteristically dark passageway, and your vision focuses entirely on the light emanating at the end. At dead centre, a majestic, over 300 year-old Banyan tree. Besides the adjacent decked out (Techno)gym and cold plunge, the picturesque patio past the historic tree are easily the Spa's highlights.
The thematic reverance for nature pervades the suites. Locally sourced stone, cane, yellow balau timber and even the planted green roofs that you can't see from within.
The central courtyard is, without doubt, the most unique feature. Dividing spacious bed chambers from equally large bathrooms, it's also the most complained about, we're told. Seems it takes some getting used to for us first-world, ensuite folk.
Yet, I can't help thinking it's this very layout that sets the resort apart from many other luxury, nature-infused getaways. More meaningfully, it takes inspiration from traditional Malaysian kampung (village) housing that's filled with the weather's elements. Which unfortunately, the outdoor furniture are also at mercy of.
Still, it's a clever combination having the petite pool at the heart and the option to slide open connecting doors, all whilst shielded away by the exterior blinds. It allows a guest experience that feels both liberating while maintaining a desired level of privacy.
Housed within the estate are Japanese restaurant Hoshi with a towering vibrant mural, and Dusky Monkey bar with its portraits of the very dusky monkey it earns its moniker from, candidly photographed sitting at the counter by the establishment's former General Manager.
Ambara serves lovely cuisine of the country complete with an open kitchen to catch the action; but if you want that schnazzy pool hang, Ember Beach Club oozes that while simultaneously carrying a more intimate tone in the evening.
It makes perfect sense that even non-staying patrons come by to spend the entire afternoon there. To make the most of it though, align your calendar with the seasonal Four Hands that Chef Andrew Walsh divulges for a taste of Cure, matched with the best of the collaboration's guest chef.
Just a two-hour drive away under ideal traffic conditions, it honestly wins out further travel for an idyllic white-sand-turquoise-sea vacation. And believe me when I say that this time, it wasn't difficult falling asleep.
