Why Hermès' new watch is limited to just 24 pieces

The brand's slim new watch features a revolutionary pad-printed dial, ultra-thin movement, and a fresh take on the brand's equestrian heritage. Of course, collectors are already circling
Published: 24 March 2025

In the world of haute horlogerie, few brands manage to consistently blend artistic expression with mechanical excellence quite like Hermès. The brand’s latest creation, the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, is a masterclass in this delicate balance, limited to just 24 pieces worldwide.

At first glance, what strikes you isn’t the white gold case or the ultra-thin H1950 movement (though both are exceptional)—it’s the dial. The abstracted horse profile, rendered in pad-printed colours against an azure enamel sky, is simultaneously bold and ethereal. Designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s interpretation plays with motion and colour in a way that feels distinctly modern while honouring Hermès’ equestrian heritage. This design aligns with Hermès’ 2025 theme, “Drawn to craft.”

The technical execution here is fascinating. The base blue enamel is created using crushed coloured glass powder mixed with natural oils, dried and then fired in a kiln to stabilise the pigments. The horse motif is then built up through successive layers of pad printing, a technique that requires extraordinary precision to achieve the perfect balance of shade and luminosity.

What’s particularly compelling about this piece is how it embodies the 39.5mm Slim d’Hermès collection’s core philosophy. Designed by Philippe Delhotal in 2015, these watches have always been about refined restraint, expressing the very essence of the house: a singularity composed of rigour, discipline, and balance. The ultra-thin H1950 movement, at just 2.6mm thick, allows the watch to maintain an elegant profile despite its artistic dial. This movement, crafted in Switzerland, offers a 48-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vph.

The matt Bleu Abysse alligator strap isn’t an afterthought either—it’s a reminder that Hermès remains, at its core, a leather house. The deep blue perfectly frames the artistic dial while demonstrating the Maison’s legendary leather craftsmanship.

This is watchmaking as art, but not at the expense of technical excellence. It’s precisely this combination that makes the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé such a compelling piece for serious collectors. In an era where luxury watches often lean heavily on either technical complexity or pure aesthetics, Hermès has created something that genuinely advances both conversations simultaneously.

Originally published on Esquire AUS

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