…as the wonders of nature, organic and unyielding with a sense of defiance to what’s expected.

Artistic director Véronique Nichanian’s long tenure at a house that’s not her own has been well documented. And while that may conjure up notions of predictable offerings, the reality is quite the opposite. Nichanian is a builder of worlds, having crafted Hermès’ menswear universe from the very start and then helped it evolve with the times. Throughout the process, she continues to surprise.

Take the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show for example, when suddenly, a model comes sauntering down the runway, shirt completely unbuttoned and torso increasingly exposed as the lightweight material moves as he does. Not only was the bare chest an outlier in Hermès menswear runway shows, it was also inked up (temporarily we’re informed), continuing the L’Instruction du Roy design printed on the shirt. It’s the second look featuring the design, but the first with such a brazen impact in the line-up; two more looks in the series were worn by models who were also inked but showing much less skin.

The Hermès man may appreciate the finer details in artisanal craftsmanship, but he’s no dud. There’s a certain je ne sais quoi about him when one least expects it. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is French cool.

…as the open sea on a clear day, undulating ever so slowly to nature’s rhythms.

However, don’t let the unexpected show of skin throw you off. Nichanian isn’t pandering to or hoping to cater to a new audience. Take it as a metaphor, if you will. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection’s palette of neutrals coupled with doses of pink are akin to still waters—they run deep. They’re complements to the overall breezy silhouette of sufficiently oversized tops and jackets paired with summer-ready sandals. And while these may be part of an aesthetic that Nichanian has crafted for the Hermès menswear universe, there’s still the capacity for the unexpected and yet still on brand.

…as a prized racehorse, focused on the finish line and blazing through with unparalleled experience.

The collection’s undeniable strengths are in the details and the elements that have to be felt.

You might baulk at the idea of florals for the season as expected as they may seem, but here, they’re embroidered as meticulous linework onto blousons, overshirts and jackets with a rubberised touch. It’s an odd sensation that tickles the brain because you’re not expecting something that looks delicate to feel synthetic. The same can be said of the collection’s sweaters and tops printed with the Étude équestre print—they’re actually made of nubuck despite having the appearance of lightweight fabric.

Hermès’ equestrian roots prevail in quite possibly the most unexpected detail in the collection. What appears as though they’re haphazardly painted brush strokes in silver foil on parkas, hooded blousons and overshirts, actually integrates hidden horse figures as part of the Cavalcade sidérale print. And in some cases, the pieces are also reversible for added functionality and freedom of wear.

So, predictable? Not quite.