In a year dedicated to drawing as the basis of creativity at Hermès, artistic director of its menswear universe, Véronique Nichanian, took the theme to heart. At its most literal, the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection is replete with graphic patterns; an interplay of lines and colours. These patterns often recall that of racing stripes—nods to the Maison’s equestrian heritage. But keeping to the collection’s more grounded colour palette of deep browns, blues and greys, the graphics are bold only in their placement against muted tones and not so much in the intensity of hues seen in the equestrian context.
No, the collection isn’t sporty; not in the least. In fact, the Hermès Autumn/ Winter 2025 menswear collection veers towards a sort of traditional formality. A majority of looks have their tops tucked into tailored trousers, showing off leather belts; there’s even a couple of suit-and-tie ensembles in the mix, cut with sharp precision and with horizontal welt pockets subtly highlighting the natural curves of the body.
It isn’t incredibly formal either. Nichanian’s constant shifting of the line between formal dress and a utilitarian casualness is in full effect for the season. Conservative layers—a 180 from the risqué, skin-baring looks of the season before—almost always start with a turtleneck, then a button-up, before variations of outerwear ranging from cropped parkas to jackets and coats crafted from rubberised lambskin complete each look. The treatment of the latter appears like lightweight, malleable patent leather that’s incredibly soft to the touch. It is a fine example of Hermès’ leather mastery and Nichanian’s penchant for atypical materials and treatments.
Speaking of atypical, a standout piece of outerwear in the collection is a duo of parkas that are cleverly lined with detachable blankets. That’s right—the Hermès throws and blankets that have become fixtures in any stylish home have been transformed into elegant lining. They’re, of course, cut as typical lining patterns but remain finished with blanket stitching for that unmistakable look of a comfy, wool throw. If anything, the ingenuity should now inspire anyone to make more use of that Hermès blanket lying around their couches.
Aside from getting inspiration from an existing Hermès signature, Nichanian took the opportunity to also reimagine how another timeless icon is worn. The collection closes with double tour scarf necklaces, and while you may think that they’re a newly created accessory, closer inspection reveals that it’s a clever styling hack. Silk scarves are twisted and fitted through an assortment of rings that are then positioned throughout the length of the makeshift necklace. Genius, no?
If there are boundary lines at Hermès, then Nichanian has been redrawing them—she is the architect of the Maison’s menswear universe after all. And whenever she does, it’s hardly expected, yet remains completely in line with Hermès.
