Hermès is always being talked about, especially of late. That's not a bad thing of course; as they say, any publicity is good publicity. Perhaps, that's why the Maison saw the need to increase the capacity of its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show at 9 Place d'Iena. A PR rep told me that the seating configuration was different this time around so that they could accommodate more people—a good sign that there's increasing interest in Hermès.

It did seem as though artistic director Véronique Nichanian felt the need to widen the appeal of her menswear creations for the Maison. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection was perhaps one of the safest collections by Nichanian in the last few years. But don't get me wrong, it's not bad. It's just that we're used to seeing Nichanian be more experimental with her menswear vision that a pared back, almost classic collection was a stark contrast to her previous work.

Having said that, there was still plenty to discover. It's not a collection that one would immediately strike as distinct or in industry speak, "editorial". No; this was a collection you'd have to touch, feel and understand a bit more intimately in order to appreciate the craft and thought behind it.

The fit: Sticking to her penchant for oversized outerwear and tops, Nichanian slightly extended the lengths of jackets, rebelling from the current fervour for cropped everything. More traditional tailoring was also brought back, cut slim and worn with equally slim ties, while an array of outerwear took on familiar forms but rendered in leather and technical fabrications. A particular treatment employed on a number of coats and jackets appeared like textured patent leather on the runway, but was actually coated fabric.

The colour palette was classic Hermès with a heavy usage of earth tones for the season. The more colourful pieces in the collection were knitwear with motifs inspired by the uniforms of jockeys. But at the same time, the colours used were complementary and served to break away from the monotony.

The details: Instantly, my eyes were drawn to the clever styling of a scarf turned into a double-tour necklace. This was done quite simply by sliding the scarf into a number of Hermès rings (you could pretty much do this on your own with any just about any ring) and then securing it with a knot. Quite a neat style hack, in my opinion.

As an example of the Maison's savoir-faire beyond fashion, a number of outerwear incorporated blankets as part of their design. These blanket liners could be removed when needed but attaching them functioned to add much needed warmth. They're also finished with blanket stitching for a beautiful contrast.

On the bags front, the Haut à courroies got an update with a detachable addition that slides onto the bag's front hardware for added external pockets. And aligning with the Hermès theme of the year—Drawn to craft—a number of iterations featured a completely hardware-free version replaced with a clever connect-the-dots motif.

Three exceptional looks: Look 3 that'll be the perfect outfit for next winter; the blanket-stitching savoir-faire in look 17; and the cool elegance and simplicity of look 44.

The takeaway: While social media debates over the Birkin versus the Wirkin, Hermès proves that its signature style and elegance can't be replicated for cheap.

View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.