Back in 1967, Seiko had a vision: to create watches that could rival the luxury pieces produced by Swiss maisons. To realise this ambition, it enlisted the help of Taro Tanaka, who developed the “Grammar of Design”, an aesthetic code intended to give Japanese luxury watches a distinctive visual identity capable of competing with their Swiss counterparts. This pursuit resulted in the iconic Grand Seiko 44GS, which has since become arguably the most influential reference in Grand Seiko’s history.
In 2020, Grand Seiko conceived the Evolution 9 collection to ensure the longevity of this design philosophy, carrying the legacy of the 1967 classic into the modern era. Yet the three pillars upon which the original was built remain unchanged: aesthetics, legibility and wearing comfort.
Rather than reimagining these principles, Grand Seiko continues to refine them, chipping away at the imperfections in pursuit of something closer to perfection. For its latest release, the brand takes some of its most compelling existing models and introduces subtle refinements to elevate them further.
The collection draws its design cues from nature, from birch trees in varying hues to the emerald-green waters of the Atera River. We’re particularly drawn to two references featuring mesmerising dials inspired by the surface of Lake Suwa.
Picture this: the gentle threshold between dawn and day. The slow transition reflected in the shimmer of light on the water, framed by mountains, fog, and silvered buildings on the horizon. Lake Suwa lies tranquil and still, disturbed only by the morning breeze rolling across its surface.
Both watches capture this mesmerising moment on their dial, where intricate patterns meet subtle texture to evoke the same quiet, dreamlike melancholy right on your wrist. It’s enhanced by a radial finish, helping the dial catch and reflect light. This means if you rotate your wrist, you’ll notice the surface oscillate between deep navy to something closer to a silver-blue.
The Lake Suwa pattern has long been a favourite among Grand Seiko fans and a mainstay of the Evolution 9 line. What sets these latest references apart, however, is their lighter blue hue. Applied to the textured surface, the softer shade lends the dial a delicate shimmer reminiscent of the morning sun dancing across the water.
The SLGB013 keeps to the collection's familiar 40mm case, 11.7mm thick. Meanwhile, the SLGB015 goes svelte with a 37mm case, just 11.4mm thick. It’s a thoughtful addition for anyone who finds larger watches cumbersome on the wrist. That said, with smaller watches continuing to gain traction among enthusiasts, we suspect the SLGB015 will appeal to far more than just those with smaller wrists.
Additionally, both references are cut from Ever-Brilliant Steel, Grand Seiko's corrosion-resistant alloy that’s said to have a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) value of over 40. In simpler terms, this places the material in the "super stainless" category, offering superior corrosion resistance and a brighter colour that far exceeds that of ordinary steel.
The bracelet sees some slight reworking as well, implementing a three-step micro-adjustment mechanism that allows users to fine-tune the fit in 2mm increments without the use of any tools. This comes in handy particularly on those humid afternoons, where the wrist tends to swell, making the watch feel tighter than it usually is. Those 2mm increments will give your wrist room to breathe in moments like that.
Under the hood, both watches run on the calibre 9RB2, the Spring Drive U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy) movement, which yields a strict regimen of ±20 seconds a year. This is a huge step up from the calibre 9RA2, its predecessor which offered only a deviation of ±10 seconds a month. According to Grand Seiko, this qualifies the 9RB2 to claim the throne of being the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch movement on the market.
Such precision, however, comes at a cost. For all that enhanced accuracy, the new calibre trades its previous five-day power reserve to three. But it’s a compromise that feels reasonable, considering 72-hours is more than enough for a watch to survive a long weekend in the drawer. Though, with a dial this mesmerising, we suspect you might find yourself reaching for it simply to admire its beauty, even when you have no intention of putting it on.
The SLGB013 and SLGB015 are now available at Grand Seiko Salon - Watches of Switzerland, located at Jewel Changi Airport.
