It is September, the month magazines typically turn their attention to the subject of style. Esquire Singapore may be far less conformist than many of this city-state’s publications, but delivering a fashion-centric September issue is one rule we’re glad to adhere to.

For much of my 20 years as a journalist and editor, I’ve covered fashion, among other subjects of vital socioeconomic importance.

Up until the pandemic, I would often spend much of each January and June at Pitti Uomo and the fashion weeks in London, Paris and Milan. Though I mostly focus on menswear, on several occasions, I had the privilege of attending the women’s couture presentations in Paris.

Being lucky enough to see Raf Simons’s spring 2013 Christian Dior couture show remains one of my most memorable fashion moments. Then a newbie to couture, Raf brought a crisp futurism to this classic discipline, creating structured gowns and mellifluous frocks that were ‘pretty’ and glamorous yet modern, and immaculately tailored suits that lent couture an almost everyday practicality.

(DIOR MEN'S SUMMER 2024)

The 2015 documentary Dior and I, which explored the frenzied eight-week creative process behind Raf’s first couture collection as artistic director for Dior, brought into sharp focus not only his passionate perfectionism but the incredible skill of the artisans toiling in Dior’s Avenue Montaigne ateliers. As much as the designer’s vision, it is these craftspeople’s painstaking execution of minute details that gives a couture garment its magic—contributing to a price tag that can stretch well into six figures.

It was details that distinguished the experience when I recently became one of the first customers of the Dior spa on Belmond’s Eastern & Oriental Express train, travelling through the jungles of Malaysia. Operating some of the world’s most elegant hotels, as well as several gracious sleeper trains and boats, Belmond was acquired several years ago by Dior-allied LVMH, making this collaboration very much a family affair.

Positioned between the dining and bar cars, the spa comprises two treatment rooms clad in rich tropical wood panelling carrying Dior’s canework motif, which figured prominently in Kim Jones’ spring 2024 Dior Men’s collection. Feature walls and bedspreads are dressed in Dior’s Toile de Jouy print, a graphic used across an array of apparel and accessories by the house’s current women’s artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. The rooms look gorgeous, but where the Dior spa really impressed was in its attention to certain points that many five-star spas fumble.

(LUDOVIC BALAY)

Whatever plush fleecy textile was used to cover the massage table, it felt like lying on a cloud, and somehow, the face cradle miraculously avoided giving me the throbbing forehead-ache that most do. The music steered clear of meditative chants, nature sounds and panpipe cliché, instead opting for the type of laidback sounds you’d hear in a chic Parisian bar. (At several points, I wished I’d had Shazam handy. And a martini.)

Protecting my modesty, a zephyr-like cotton sheet of incalculable thread count was draped across me. It carried an embroidered quote from Monsieur Dior: “Au fond d’un cœur sommeille toujours un rêve,” which translates as “Deep inside a heart, there always lies a dream”—apt, as this spa experience was indeed dreamy. The massage itself was very nice, I might add. The vibrations as we rattled down the tracks added a certain je ne sais quoi.

(LUDOVIC BALAY)

I’d never been on a luxury sleeper train before, and it proved a terribly stylish way to travel. There’s an ineffable elegance to journeying at a pace far slower than an aircraft, relaxing and enjoying lush palm-treed scenery with a cocktail in one hand, a paperback of Paul Theroux’s Great Railway Bazaar in the other. “If a train is large and comfortable you don’t even need a destination; a corner seat is enough, and you can be one of those travellers who stay in motion, straddling the tracks, and never arrive or feel they ought to,” Theroux writes. Can confirm.

It was also pleasant to be in the company of travellers who’d made an effort to dress in key with the sophisticated surroundings. Prompting this, passengers on the Eastern & Oriental Express are issued with dress code guidance pre-departure, noting that the “atmosphere aboard is one of relaxed refinement,” suggesting that gentlemen should wear a sports coat or blazer for dinner, and to please avoid jeans or sneakers during meal times (where acclaimed chef André Chiang’s cuisine is served). Nearly everyone aboard stepped up sartorially, with a couple of gents going so far as to don a tuxedo one evening, adding to the sense of occasion and Agatha Christie-esque atmosphere.

(FRANKIE LIN)

Relaunched this year after a pandemic hiatus and a periodic spruce-up of its Art Deco interiors, the Eastern & Oriental Express currently navigates several different itineraries across Malaysia, and will soon also explore Thailand. Belmond operates classic trains in South America, Europe and Great Britain, but the man responsible for running the company’s mobile hospitality offering has a particular fondness for our local route, shunting from Woodlands to Penang and back.

“People always ask me which is my favourite train, and it’s like choosing between children—you’re not really allowed to say,” Gary Franklin, the vice president for Belmond trains and cruises, tells me. “But spending time on that train, sitting in the observation car, watching the Asian countryside go by, is amazing.”

Belmond’s philosophy centres on savouring both the destination and the journey, travelling in style, and much like the Dior atelier, having skilled personnel in place to ensure all the fiddly details are “just so”. “Luxury is evolving, it’s less about formality and more about genuine care. The art of hospitality is about creating an atmosphere where guests feel that everything is taken care of and that they are special,” Franklin believes.

“It’s about making guests feel comfortable, well looked after, and relaxed, creating an environment where people feel like they’re at home—but better,” he explains. “It’s not just about the tangible things like the quality of the food or the type of champagne served, though those are important, of course. It’s more about the people who make you feel at ease, the generosity and care that go beyond what’s expected.” In couture or hospitality, it’s the personal touch that makes all the difference. That, and a sense of style. Human qualities AI has fortunately not yet learnt to imitate.