I get it. The words "elevated" and "hawker" can be pretty eyeroll-worthy when combined. It's often synonymous with another lethal word combination: tourist trap. A mere say, SGD2 hike for any hawker staple would have most up in arms (colloquially: siao why this chicken rice so expensive), what more paying five times the price?
So let me play the devil's advocate. If a business in Singapore's cutthroat food industry has been around for over the last five decades, you would assume that they are doing something right. Because within these 53 years are two that had the world in a standstill. Meaning; patrons aren't foreigners only—they are discerning locals.
Surviving without tourists is impressive considering there's Chatterbox Café and Chatterbox Express thriving overseas. Besides global appeal though, the price point accounts for factors like space, service and ambience, which is painfully obvious to mention.
Now that the restaurant's interior has undergone a refresh too, it's perfect for bringing friends from abroad for a nice introductory meal, or the family on occasion. And what better occasion than the country's birthday.
Feel free to disagree, but boneless chicken makes a significant difference in the dining experience. Pretty sure that's the whole reason why nuggets were invented. Even my other favourite fancy chicken rice brand that rhymes with moon monkey does not incorporate that.
On top of the convenience, the meat is tender and juicy. They originate from plump, free-range chickens running around for 60 days after all. The result of slow steaming in aromatic stock is evident in the bite, and serving it chilled—the best way, you can't tell me otherwise—keeps all the flavour locked in.
For those obsessed with the value for money in true Singaporean fashion, know that the portion of meat essentially serves two. The usual suspects of dark soya sauce, ginger puree and chilli sauce also hit all the right notes with consistency. As testament, the chef behind the dish's recipe all those years ago is still working there to this day.
Ultimately, food is extremely subjective, but what can be spoken for is quality and service. Probably explains the star-studded wall of famous visitors, amongst whom is a former President who allegedly spends every anniversary there. While I still wouldn't pair my elevated hawker fare with wine, I'd say the coconut shake is pretty damn good, and enjoying all that in a beautifully modern space is what I'd spend SGD25 on every now and then.
9 August also marks the last day for a National Day five-course menu. From SGD75, diners will be treated to petite portions of Lemon Butter Prawn, Kueh Pie Tee, Chicken Satay and Bak Kut Teh; followed by Chilli Crab with Mantou and of course, that best-selling plate of Chicken Rice; before ending with the Signature Coconut Ice-Cream.
