2024 is quickly becoming the year of the lapel pin as exemplified by the range seen at the recent Academy Awards. But it was two weeks prior, at another award show, that we were taken by quite an extraordinary lapel pin.
Now, we're not saying that Paul Mescal at the 2024 BAFTAs ignited a sudden re-embrace of lapel pins (and some pretty bejewelled ones at that), but the Cartier piece added to his Gucci suit was such an unexpected surprise in the best ways possible. At first glance, the sharp-edged design looked like individual pins layered atop of each other. However, they're a whole set with its connection hidden at the back of the jacket's lapel. Its name? The Cartier Libre Polymorph jacket lapel gem—crafted in white gold and decorated with garnets, onyx and diamonds.
The Cartier Libre collection isn't exactly new. As the name suggests, it's a completely free expression untethered by conventions of jewellery and watchmaking as well as Cartier traditions, and has resulted in some truly inspiring pieces by the Maison. The Polymorph collection that sits under Cartier Libre however, is the latest creative expression—a collection of watches and jewellery that all share the ability to transform.
No, they don't mechanically move and turn into something else (although judging by the debut collection, it certainly isn't out of the realm of possibility). The Cartier Libre Polymorph collection is inspired by the constant motion of nature, resulting in pieces that are flexible and draws on the Maison's passion for surprise and bringing refined creations to life.
A fine example of this is a Polymorph ring consisting of four rotating discs of white gold, onyx and diamonds. The ring imitates the movement of a solar eclipse with each disc varying in design and size. The full extent of its width can be unfolded on the hand or folded inwards to create a single focal point of a spiral of discs that seems to be in constant flow. It's a show-stopping piece and definitely looks better than a fidget spinner.
One of the collection's more curious objets d'art is a bejewelled carabiner. The precious object is smaller than the size of one's palm but is intricately riddled with baguette diamonds, brilliant-set diamonds, prong-set sapphire and emeralds. In the centre sits a rotating component showcasing a diamond-paved dial surrounded by emeralds and sapphires. At the 12 o'clock position sits a ruby, while beads of lapis-lazuli, onyx, black spinel, turquoise and chrysoprase coil around either side of the dial.
But the main point is that it's a carabiner, and like every other carabiner, it opens up. The Polymorph piece does so with a touch of a sapphire cabochon that activates the diamond-paved band bordered by rubies that it sits on. Talk about decadent.
While Mescal's lapel pin was a unique piece, this next brooch is an incomparable stunner. The panther is Cartier's insignia through and through. Hence, it's no surprise that it would make an appearance in the Polymorph collection too and this time, in quite a menacing interpretation.
Shaped like four claws of the panther, the brooch is crafted from four large moonstones and snow-set diamonds with custom-cut onyx. It sits right at the edge of a lapel, appearing to grip the and display only a hint of its power. But even then, the surprise doesn't stop there. When pressed, a hidden miniature dial is revealed. Smart, audacious and bold—a creative expression like no other.
There are of course more pieces in the Cartier Libre Polymorph collection, including a bracelet that bursts like the sun's rays. But even just these three aforementioned pieces are enough to showcase the unbridled creativity that's at the heart of the Maison. And to think that this is just the beginning.
