No, there isn’t a new artistic director at Berluti. In fact, there hasn’t been one since Kris Van Assche left the Maison in 2021. There is, however, a new CEO in the form of Jean-Marc Mansvelt.
Mansvelt has been in the LVMH Group of brands for decades. He had spent about 10 years in Louis Vuitton before moving to become jewellery house Chaumet’s CEO in 2015, focusing on storytelling to revive what was often referred to as the “sleeping beauty” of the jewellery world. And while high jewellery is far from the world of luxury fashion, Mansvelt is likely to enact a somewhat similar approach to Berluti as its CEO.
The Maison’s latest campaign is the first of what is certain to be many new directional changes for Berluti. Lensed by Bastian Archard, whose works often capture objects and people in a quiet and intimate manner, the 17-image campaign zeroes in on the Maison’s emblematic pieces. They’re treated like objets d’art—shoes and bags positioned on pedestals, while ready-to-wear pieces envelope and take on the personalities of the models they’re put on.
There’s no distinguishing the timeless Berluti classics from pieces picked out from the latest collections. It’s a strategic and artful approach to signal this new chapter of Berluti where seasonality is seemingly obsolete. Instead, the focus is on the craft honed by its artisans. A number of the images from the campaign highlight the design intricacies and details that are easily recognisable for those already familiar with Berluti, while serving as a reminder of the hands and artistry that go behind each piece. The tone-on-tone hand-stitching of the Andy loafers, and the sliver of the contemporary on the sporty-soled Fast Track leather sneakers showcase time-honoured expertise, and are essentially a snapshot of the artisans themselves. The scuffed up and worn out soles of a pair of Alessandro lace-ups demonstrate that Berluti’s pieces are meant to be lived in and remain dependable for years to come.
Perhaps, the most drastic change is the return of the classic Berluti logo. The serif typography has been revived, given due prominence with each and every campaign image bearing the mark—even alongside the Van Assche-initiated trademark onto the sole of a pair of boots. And like the creations it’s featured against, the emblem radiates character and renewed energy, a signifier of the history and upcoming stories yet to be told with the brand.
All that is to say: Berluti is home.
