2024 was relatively not a great year for fashion and luxury as a whole. And now that we've kicked off 2025 proper, shifting branding and marketing strategies are taking effect with the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show season showing the first signs of how brands are seeking to ensure newness beyond the collections.
That's not to say that there's very little to look forward to during the year's first slate of fashion shows and presentations—it's quite the contrary. Making early headlines are some eagerly anticipated debuts as well as welcomed returns to the official fashion calendar. Here, we list them all down so you won't be missing a beat when the time comes.
There will be plenty of fashion brands and houses that have opted out of the Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show calendar, focusing instead on co-ed showings during the women's shows in February and March. Gucci, Moschino, Fendi, DSquared2 and JWAnderson will be absent from Milan, while Loewe (surprisingly) has bowed out of this season's Paris Fashion Week Men's calendar.
After a brief showing in June last year, Moschino decided to release its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection (together with its Pre-Autumn 2025 womenswear collection) as a lookbook back in December. Sparking a trend of a return to co-ed runway shows, Gucci, DSquared2 and Fendi will instead show during the womenswear show calendar—Fendi will also officially start its 100th anniversary celebrations without an artistic director for its womenswear universe.
The Milan Fashion Week Men's calendar may be looking rather sparse without the presence of several flagship brands, but the usual big-named favourites remain. Prada and its host of famous attendees are scheduled in its usual spot, so will Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, and Zegna is set to close Milan in true sartorial form.
After multiple seasons of showing off-calendar, Saint Laurent will be making its Paris Fashion Week return. Sort of. While its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show won't exactly be part of the official calendar, which ends on 26 January, it's still the closest it has been for a while.
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello is scheduled to show his latest menswear creations for Saint Laurent on 28 January 2025, right smack in the middle of Haute Couture Week. In any case, the show will certainly be one to watch as Vaccarello has certainly come into his own in the past few seasons, especially when it comes to the House's menswear universe—unifying the vision and look of the House as a whole.
After a year of opening boutiques in New York City and London, another brand that will be making its Paris Fashion Week return is Jacquemus. Known for showing somewhat off-calendar and away from Paris, Jacquemus' last Paris Fashion Week Men's showing was back in 2020. The brand has been focusing on co-ed runway shows since, with an overall sense of dramatic theatricality reflected in both its show locations as well as its designs. While there's little information of where the show will take place, there's little doubt that founder and designer Simon Porte Jacquemus will be putting on a show made to go viral on social media.
Let's face it: Lanvin hasn't exactly been quite the same since the late Alber Elbaz was its creative director. British designer Peter Copping—he had most recently spent five years at Balenciaga—was named Lanvin's newest artistic director in June 2024 and is set to show his first collection for the brand, closing out Paris Fashion Week Men's on the eve of Haute Couture Week.
Copping's Lanvin debut won't be the only debut of the season. In Paris alone, a couple of brands will be making their first appearance in the City of Lights.
American designer Willy Chavarria will make his Paris debut after years of being a New York Fashion Week fixture on 24 January, before the Kenzo show in the evening. And on the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men's, British brand S.S.DALEY—the brand that Harry Styles himself owns a minority stake in—will open the day's proceedings.
There will unfortunately (to the disappointment of this style director) not be a Dries Van Noten show by newly installed creative director Julian Klausner this time around. However, it's been said that the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection will instead be dropped in a lookbook and presentation format, showcasing a first look into Klausner's vision for the beloved brand.
For all the first-person encounters during Paris Fashion Week Men's for the Autumn/Winter 2025 show season, follow @esquiresg.
