Long before waxed cotton and tweed gave way to Gore-Tex and fleece, a tailored jacket was one of the most popular pieces of sportswear for men. Initially designed for the horsey set, the hacking jacket—hacking being the term for riding cross-country—was a linchpin of the male wardrobe in the UK, where it originated, and in America. It was built to withstand thornbushes and passing branches while providing warmth in the saddle. By the 1930s, the jacket had become a fixture even for non-riders, a way to say, “I may be off duty but I’m still keeping up appearances.”
Back then, the jacket was made of tweed, often with pronounced patterns in natural, country-inspired colors, and finished with details like slanted pockets and throat latches to make long rides more comfortable. Crucially, none of this had much to do with fashion. It was all about function, with a necessary nod to remaining presentable even when wandering around the outskirts of some far-flung estate. Fast-forward a century and the hacking jacket remains—blissfully—largely unchanged. The equestrian details are still there. The fabric is reliably a variation on tweed. And it’s still a great way to elevate your wardrobe without getting too fussy about things. Now you might find yourself pairing it just as comfortably with denim and loafers as corduroy and brogues. And the tie—much like the horse—is entirely optional.
Photographs by Ryan Slack
Styling by Andrea Rios
Grooming by Devra Kinery
Model: Thomas Gibbons at State Management
