The last of Singapore’s Four Grand Mansions is one of those heritage homes you’ve seen in passing but probably never stepped foot in. Can you even name the other three? To be fair, neither can I, which makes this sole survivor pretty significant.
The historical manor has changed many hands and assumed several identities across its almost-century-and-a-half-year stint. Outlasting the Japanese occupation, the former abode of wealthy Teochew merchant (and technically, drug dealer?) Tan Yeok Nee is now a trending F&B destination.
Perhaps for the first time ever, you can get your TLDR on a national monument through a menu of tipples. Enter the traditional outer gates and through the courtyard to a tea atelier and centrepiece bar. The contemporary hospitality concepts work as day to night venues.
10am - 7pm
The tea equivalent of a hole-in-the-wall cafe is fairly chi-chi. Single estate brews, refined blends, and herbal infusions are priced on the steeper end, as are the locally made pastries and confections. The tea programme is meticulously, manually sourced by the tea master. Not only is the man versed at Gongfu Tea Ceremony, he’s got his finger on the pulse of the contemporary tea scene.
If you’re a tea snob that can’t stand what the mass chains are offering, it may make sense to fork a little more for the premiums. Whether in unadulterated cold brew, or hot and cold milk options, the fragrance is unmissable. So is the immersive environment with specialised brewing equipment framed by the master’s personal teaware collection.
For something a little more unique, the Coco Pulut Pu-erh melds the distinct dark tea with coconut milk; resulting in notes reminiscent of the familiar black glutinous rice dessert.
5pm - Midnight
The heart of the property provides a better view of the mansion’s impressive architecture. Even if you are unaware of the effort incorporated into upholding furnishing solely by tension (since nails and permanent fixtures are a no-no for protected restorations), there’s a lot to appreciate from your seat.
Original structure and motifs are accentuated by intentional placement of reflective surfaces. This includes a central console extending from the counter to split the space. It’s a cooling strip keeping libations consistently chilled and coaster-free. No clue why no one implemented this ingenuity earlier, but it could be the irking sight of constant condensation.
More intimate than the already cosy booths is the adjacent private dining room fashioned after a train carriage–another homage to history. It has since been accommodating the overflow of bookings since launch. The other private hall imitates a Chinese apothecary and hosts its clay-ageing vessels.
Calligraphy, intricate carvings, and vibrant ornaments engulf the eyeline. I could gush on the dying craft behind the mosaic miniatures decorating the roof trusses, but I suspect you just want to know which drink you should order. Well, the lineup narrates four bygone arcs; each honouring past occupants.
The Kapitan Era is a tribute to the man himself (also where the bar gets its name, if you haven’t put it together by now), playing on the goods he famously traded. Pepper Peddler is a standout here. Don’t let the ingredient list intimidate you.
The Baijiu appears as a sublime touch with effervescent makgeolli and gin. You barely taste spice from the firewater tincture, and only get peppercorn on the nose from the garnish. Instead, you’ll be surprised by light chocolatey notes in this bright highball.
Manifest earns crowd favour for being a perfectly tasty gin-based balance of palo cortado, nashi pear, lemon, with toasted purple rice and sesame oil. Great for fans of savouries. Classically safe choices are Tank Road in Whisky Sour style, and Black Lacquer a rum-rendition Espresso martini.
Lancet challenges the most adventurous, and Tea Needle the strong drinkers. Zero-proof Last Call and TCM Drawer No. 3 debatably, dobetter spiked. The latter wins best for ‘gram when presented in ceramics popular with Chinese-themed cocktails, but there’s nothing medicinal about it.
Amongst the supporting cast of food, Spicy Tempeh Tots and Mee Kapitan satisfy. The sweet-toothed can opt for the bougie Ice Cream Sandwich if feeling nostalgic and selfish; the Sesame Pot Sticker if not.
More than the stomach, you can satiate your mind at the modest heritage gallery flanking both establishments. Here’s where you can admire the aforementioned dying craft of traditional appliqués technique.
Closely examine samples of the elaborate artefacts embedded throughout. Study the family tree recorded over centuries. Mostly, leave feeling culturally enriched for visiting a hotspot that’s been hiding in plain sight this whole time.
The House of Tan Yeok Nee is located at 101 Penang Road, Singapore 238466.
