It almost feels pointless to review Hermès' Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection. It's not that there's nothing to talk about—quite the contrary actually. The collection is, by all intents and purposes, a fully fleshed out collection for the Spring/Summer 2027 season despite it being thought of as a filler as the Maison looks to newly appointed creative director of men's ready-to-wear, Grace Wales Bonner, and her debut scheduled for the Autumn/Winter 2027 show season. Yet, the Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection is perhaps proof that the Maison is ready to move forward; that after 37 years of Véronique Nichanian's stellar shaping of the menswear universe, a new guard is needed to build upon the foundations.

Naturally, Hermès opted for a smaller presentation-style format this time around. Held at the Maison's Paris showroom, the presentation may have been a departure from the runway shows and even the re-sees that we're used to, but the depth of the collection remained. The collection was designed entirely in-house, and surprisingly, didn't feel rudderless. Such is, without a shred of doubt, the artistry that Nichanian had left behind with the design team that she led.

The fit: Much like the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection where Nichanian opted for plenty of openwork motifs, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2027 collection felt like an expansion of that chapter. Breezy, knits intentionally crafted with openwork mesh as well as laser cut treatments on leather, captured a sense of poetic airiness that has become a sort of Hermès menswear signature. Techniques varied from simple lasercut on leather forming a repeating pattern that incorporated Hs, to a personal favourite where a leather jacket crafted from purple leather is finely lasercut with perforations to create a Della Cavalleria motif. The perforations in the latter were so fine that I had to test them out by repeatedly touching the material to feel something.

Unlike Nichanian's sportier leanings, the collection felt a bit more dressed up, yet, most importantly, retaining a semblance of an offbeat elegance. This time, ties were simply fashioned from hand-rolled scarves. The result was an accessory that looked like a typical necktie save for the fact that they're more lightweight and shorter in length, allowing for a more rakish sense of styling apparent throughout.

The details: It wouldn't be an Hermès collection without prints. While there were a number of printed pieces throughout the collection, it did seem as though there was a smaller selection. But then again, the collection is smaller than the average Hermès menswear collections of the past. At the same time, the prints incorporated were done in visually technical ways. The shirt in look 22 for example (another favourite) appeared as though the garment was completely crafted from white cotton before the print was then applied onto the it, and in the process, created areas where the print didn't take. And on a parka, what appeared like a print was actually an ikat technique applied onto technical silk.

Three exceptional looks: Look 11's classic Hermès menswear elements; the aforementioned purple leather ensemble that is look 14; and look 34's subtle tones with a beautiful polished calfskin jacket.

The takeaway: Don't discount the lack of a creative director for Hermès menswear—craft and creativity is inbuilt in its DNA.

View the full Hermès Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection in the gallery below.