Having followed Berluti rather closely in the last few years—especially after it decided to go without a big-named creative director—I've certainly noticed a sense of quietness in the Maison. It's not in the way that they do things because yes, you hardly hear about Berluti shouting out about its projects or collaborations, if any; Berluti is quiet in its timelessness. It's one of those luxury fashion brands that has no real need to segment their collections into seasons, simply because every piece feels transitional.
For a couple of years now, Berluti has eschewed referring to its collections in typical fashion seasonality speak. What it has doubled down on is its commitment to craft and cementing its unique position in the luxury market with its signature use of patina-painting. The Maison's latest showing at Paris Fashion Week Men's proved that it's quietly expanding it's craftsmanship and what one thinks is Berluti-made.
The fit: Let's get this out of the way: Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking. Yes, the collection is centred around the idea of a garden, interpreted in a number of expressions. There's also a creative dialogue that Berluti entered with Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's The Little Prince, where aligned sensibilities (including a reverence for the natural world) led to a brilliant creation of limited-edition pieces inspired by the novel and are scheduled for release later in the year.
For Berluti's main collection, the ready-to-wear pieces were incorporated with natural motifs in artful ways. The most literal expression came in the form of embroidery. The classic Forestière jacket (that also had been shaped into a belted coat this season) adopted a daffodil that seemed to bloom from a pocket, while similar applications appeared on outerwear as well as shirting. A suede leather jacket is completely hand-stitched with floral motifs, appearing like abstract lines and curves.
These design elements topped a collection founded on a fresh palette of soft greens and browns, with hints of purple and navy. Unlike previous collections, nothing felt too dressy; there's no evening section to speak of.
The details: There were quite a few new bags and shoes on display—including the Galet Bloom shoe inspired by the organic curves of the arum lily. But I do want to draw your attention to a line of bags that focused on Berluti signature patinas. An extension of the garden theme, the Maison drew inspiration from Impressionst art, selected four paintings and adapted them onto four of its bags—the Un Jour, Luti, Un Jour de Poche, and Toujours. Upon close inspection, each piece quite literally looked like a piece of art. And for something subtler and personally, felt more ingenious, a number of shoes were painted with patinas that made them look as those light was filtering through from a distance. Sublime.
Three exceptional looks: The leather jacket with braided trims in look 3; look 7 and that beautifully intricate suede jacket with embroidered details; and the rakish cool of look 19.
The takeaway: Berluti's interpretation of a garden for the Spring/Summer 2027 season is done in true spirit of the Maison—that is groundbreaking.
View the full Berluti Spring/Summer 2027 collection in the gallery below.
