In the midst of an unprecedented heatwave in Paris, Dior pushed up its Summer 2027 menswear runway show from the previously scheduled 2.30pm to 9am. The change did little to shift the mood of the show—no one complained about having to move appointments at the last minute, nor did the excitement of yet another Jonathan Anderson for Dior collection waned. Was it is dastardly hot within the halls of the Musée Nissim de Camondo? Yes (thankfully, my seat was out in the garden at the back, under the shade of a tree). But it did add a sense of realism to the entire collection.
The Dior Summer 2027 collection is envisioned as the after party of the after party; the press notes refer to what Anderson calls, "a soiree turning into a house party". And given that the show started slightly before 10am, the line-up of models did look like they're just reaching home after a banging party that went on and on. Understandably too, given that it was one brought to life with a soundtrack remixed by Fred again...
The fit: As opposed to the Dior Summer 2026 menswear collection—one that many compared to Gap and such based on its more simplistic nature—the Dior Summer 2027 menswear collection was perhaps what one would consider "more Dior". By typical luxury standards, the collection as a whole offered more elaborate pieces that no one could possibly argue that what they're priced at isn't justifiable.
The very first look exemplifies this more intentional application of techniques and craft. Transparent chiffon suiting was printed with pinstripes instead of being woven, allowing for an incredibly lightweight piece. Knitwear in the collection (there were quite a number of them) were heavily distressed and almost raggedy but at the same time, knitted at parts with metallic yarns. Denim were also ripped and distressed, with the exposed areas frayed with metallic threads. And in quite possibly one of the more exceptional showings of a Bar jacket for men thus far, the cuffs and hems were adorned with fringes that seemed to give the illusion that it was almost torn to shreds after a night of raving.
Overall, the vibe remained relaxed with a heavy dose of seemingly mismatched pieces coming together to form a cohesive look that made total sense. For example, chenille tweed aristocratic coats worn with embroidered shirting and denim shorts, as well as an oversized suede parka worn over gold snakeskin shorts. And in some cases, a piece of clothing is the combination of austere formality with the everyday—a cotton blouson shaped into a shearling jacket with shawl collar lapels that still exuded the formality of a tuxedo jacket.
The details: Undoubtedly, there were plenty of details that will require a more in-depth exposition, like suede suiting that looked like velvet. What stood out at first glance while watching the show was shirting that featured trompe-lœil neckties. These were inspired by 1979 Dior haute couture dresses and looked simply stunning.
I'd also like to bring your attention to the bags of the collection. For starters, the Book Totes, for the first time, were made in a softer, more pliable material that's similar to the knit bags that ran gamut in the Winter 2026 menswear collection. They didn't feature book covers however. The Dior Tombolino was introduced as a new creation of a soft duffel bag featuring the Dior Medallion motif at its ends with its circumference braided. There was also a suite of oversized totes in leather and suede that just simply looked delicious to carry.
Three exceptional looks: Look 11 with the pairing of a white double-breasted blazer with trousers comprising of leather layered on top of denim; the magnificence of look 16 with that swoosh of a collar; and the sheer craftsmanship of the coat in look 53 where the entire piece is beautifully pleated.
The takeaway: This will be one expensive collection with a focus on craft and materiality.
View the full Dior Summer 2027 menswear collection in the gallery below.
