Much like the rigidity of its design codes, Panerai has never been one to chase trends. This year's presentation at Watches and Wonders serves as a reminder of that confidence, delivering one of its most assured lineups in years. The Italian Maison has anchored itself firmly in the raw power of its military past, resulting in a collection of pieces that spans archival tributes, long-power-reserve engineering, and aged finishes.
The PAM01733 is said to be the most sought-after reference in the presentation, and it's easy to see why. As one of the brand's most recognisable models, it's also one of the more visually compelling pieces—thanks in no small part to its 44mm Brunito steel case. The case is treated by hand to achieve a darkened, brushed finish, created by carefully brushing away a layer of black PVD coating.
Here's a nugget of history: back when Panerai supplied the Italian Navy with watches, soldiers would manually brush the cases to remove their gleam and remain inconspicuous to the enemy. Today, that aged ruggedness contrasts excellently with the dial, which features a radial brushing that achieves the same decadent lustre as a sunburst finish.
Mechanically, the watch is thoroughly sound, keeping time with the precision one would expect from the manually wound P.5000 calibre, and features a small seconds display at 9 o'clock. The standout, however, is the full eight days of power reserve delivered by its twin-barrel movement.
In another era, these watches would likely have followed their bold predecessors into 47mm territory. Fortunately for those with smaller wrists, Panerai has translated the design into a more accessible 44mm format—one that manages to accommodate a contemporary audience whilst preserving Panerai's historically commanding proportions.
That said, this update does not mean the watches have abandoned their vintage character in the slightest. Both are fitted beneath a domed sapphire crystal that recalls the visual effect of Luminor watches from the 1960s, and this dedication to honouring the brand's history is further reflected in the Sandwich dial construction and vintage-inspired double pencil hands.
The PAM01731 features a matte tobacco dial with a grainy finish that pairs supremely well with the beige Super-LumiNova accents. This visual language extends beyond the dial and into the strap, where beige stitching is matched with a dark brown calf leather strap, lending the watch an altogether vintage appearance.
The Destro PAM01732, on the other hand, also features a matte, grainy dial—but rendered in blue rather than tobacco. It is accompanied by a light brown calf leather strap, reinforcing a vintage sensibility that feels even more pronounced than its counterpart. Its most defining difference, of course, lies in the Destro layout, which translates from Italian as "right." This places the crown-protecting bridge on the left-hand side rather than the usual right, making adjustments considerably easier for left-handers who wear their watches on the right wrist.
Unlike the other watches presented here, the PAM01735 stays true to its heritage by retaining a 47mm stainless steel case. Beyond its dimensions, the watch stands out visually for its matte, ivory sandwich dial, which plays with gradients that deepen the closer it gets to the edges, recreating a vignette effect that simply screams vintage Panerai.
