Esquire Examines: Spring/Summer 2026 Menswear Part One

More than anything we’ve seen before, this Spring/Summer 2026 menswear season welcomes newness. With creative directorship debuts at some of the biggest fashion houses come new ideas, while others tap on fresh perspectives on menswear’s most iconic pieces—all to answer what fashion means today
Published: 17 March 2026

Ready to serve

If there is something that Anthony Vaccarello does very well (there’s a lot, to be honest) it’s creating the element that keeps people talking long after the show is done. He did it with exaggerated bows for a collection once, and last season saw thigh-high leather boots that became the uniform for Alexander Skarsgård while promoting Pillion. This season, it’s ties.

The Saint Laurent Summer 2026 menswear collection is remembered by a tie-styling trick that we haven’t seen in a while, at least not at this scale. All the ties are folded and tucked into the front closure of shirts, leaving only slivers of them visible. It’s a cardinal sin in men’s fashion, but sometimes it’s about having the audacity to break rules. Prada did it for its Spring/Summer 2004 menswear collection back in the day. Outside of the fashion world, US Army soldiers practised this in the ’40s as part of a dress code requirement when a service coat was not worn. Tucking one’s tie into the shirt keeps an orderly look, prevents it from flapping about and reduces the risk of it getting stuck when working around heavy machinery.

It’s unlikely that there’s a practical reason behind Vaccarello’s decision to employ such a styling device though. The Summer 2026 collection is themed around the idea of escape and hidden desires—paying homage to artists who passed during the AIDS epidemic—and the tie-tucking can be seen as a symbolic way of referencing this need to hide. At the same time, it’s a subtle rebellion from tradition and rules. Regardless, it’s a style hack to play around with this season.

Twice the fun

We often hear cries of resignation over how difficult it is to dress up in this part of the world. We get it—humidity is not your best friend when it comes to looking as stylish as our counterparts living in much cooler climes. This season though, there’s an easy, almost mind-blowing style hack.

A foolproof way of appearing dressed up and as though you’ve put in extra thought into what you wear is by layering. It could be anything: a jacket, an overshirt, or a cardigan. Layering helps create depth to a look. And yes, it could be anything.

(BOSS)
(BOSS)
(BOSS)
(HERMÈS)
(FENDI)
(DOLCE&GABBANA)
(DOLCE&GABBANA)
(RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL)
(DRIES VAN NOTEN)
(DRIES VAN NOTEN)

The next time you’re putting on a T-shirt or a button-down, how about maybe wearing two instead? Take the cue from the BOSS runway, where models were seen wearing two shirts, with the collar of the inner layer laid on top of the other. Or style the collars in a haphazard manner for that nonchalant sprezzatura flair. The idea is that you’re wearing two thin layers instead of having to deal with a weightier outer layer, and hence, reducing the chance of suffering from heatstroke.

If having two shirt collars feels a bit odd to you, get your feet wet with layering two short-sleeved tees instead. (We would avoid the layering of a short- sleeve over a long-sleeve because that can read a bit “dad” and not in a sexy way.) For the more adventurous, look to Dries Van Noten’s studied approach of having a long-sleeved T-shirt as a base for sleeveless tops.

French renaissance

Michael Rider is bringing Parisian chic back to CELINE. In his second outing for the French fashion house (his debut was the Spring 2026 collection), Rider cements a new visual vocabulary for CELINE that feels more natural, nuanced, and irresistibly chic.

(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)
(CELINE)

We’ve mentioned sprezzatura, the Italian word that means “studied carelessness”; Rider’s CELINE has a certain je ne sais quoi. There’s an effortlessness in how he’s envisioned his CELINE man. There’s an eclectic sense of style that feels almost as though he’s grabbed all that he needs without as much as a thought before leaving his apartment. Yet, somehow, the combination is charming and feels put together. Extravagantly cut pieces are paired with typical menswear staples, with accessories that serve a purpose—a branded helmet, a basket-woven tote bag, and even a branded notebook. Bootcut jeans meet a beautifully shaped tuxedo jacket, while a silk, rugby-inspired shirt billows with the wind and is secured with a casual tuck into black wool trousers. Everything feels instinctive.

Mesh up

When the occasion calls for it, there’s simply no harm in showing off all the hard work that you’ve been putting into your physique. It’s also March, three months since you got started on that New Year’s resolution, and it’s time to be proud of the progress.

A trusty tank may display the guns to full effect, but it’s time to switch things up. A mesh knit does the job just as well with the added boon of teasing a bit more of what’s underneath. Giorgio Armani’s versions veer more classic and understated with sufficiently close knitting that offers hints of skin while keeping things modest. The cut may be oversized, but the material hugs at the right areas to highlight definition and gains.

Fendi offers a number of variations. In the House’s signature use of playful colours, mesh knits take the form of sailor-collared sweaters in colour-blocked trims that are versatile enough to be worn as is (tucked into formal trousers for a dressier look) or over a shirt. A sportier iteration comes in the form of a laser-cut leather bomber you could very well wear post-pump session. And if all these may be too much skin-baring for your liking, wear one over a tank for a style combination you could get away with for just about any casual setting.

For part two of things to note for Spring/Summer 2026 menswear.

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