Esquire Examines: Hermès AW26 Menswear

At Hermès, the Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection was the greatest hits of Véronique Nichanian, with more new timeless additions
Published: 26 January 2026
Farewell, but not really, to Hermès' Véronique Nichanian.
(HERMÈS)

It was bound to be an emotional evening on the second last day of Paris Fashion Week Men's. 38 years is no mean feat in an industry that has openly favoured newness and youth; Véronique Nichanian proved that time is merely a construct in both her capabilities as artistic director of Hermès' men's universe as well as her spirit.

And how does Hermès do a fitting farewell? The exterior and interior of Palais Brongniart were turned into a slideshow of sorts of Nichanian's Hermès-ness. Her menswear silhouettes and signature tropes were showcased on screens that were then programmed post-runway show to display Nichanian's runways bows through the decades as well as some of her more iconic designs that have led to her formulating her signature look for Hermès.

On the runway, it was an entirely new Hermès Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection that's meant to stand on its own. However, Nichanian took the opportunity to pepper the collection with a number of pieces from the past and seamlessly adding them in. It's an approach that was apparent to those who have been following her work at Hermès, but for those who weren't as familiar, they would have gone under the radar—a measure of just how timeless her designs truly are.

Thankfully, we won't truly be without Nichanian's talents and timeless approach to style. She will remain at the Maison as the artistic director of men's leathers and silks—we reckon, working together with incoming artistic director Grace Wales Bonner.

The fit: Marked by Nichanian's penchant for clean lines as well as sensuality of materials, the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection was replete with elongated silhouettes. Nothing was ever too long nor too short, even when the jackets were cropped. Proportions were balanced and colours helped to lengthen the body with plenty of monochromatic combinations. And when fits were punctuated with bright hue, they were accents and done in doses that all served to maintain that proportionate balance.

Leather was undoubtedly the key material throughout the collection even more than before—perhaps nods to Nichanian's next chapter at Hermès. They were manipulated in a number of ways, including as shirting as well as neat, geometric patch-working. In one of the more impressive leather executions, the closing look on the runway was a stunning navy coat crafted from shiny crocodile leather.

The details: While none of us could have been aware of them, the collection notes reiterated the existence of "selfish details" throughout the collection. It's a true-to-form Nichanian trope where she has always included details that only the wearer would be able to notice them. These gestures are often sensorial and meant to accentuate the level of luxurious quality in each piece.

The bags were more impressive this time around, and not built solely around the HAC. The Plume—a design that was first released in the '60s—was reimagined in a number of different sizes and rendered in new colours. There were even much lighter canvas variations that were trimmed with leather, while statement versions included the Plume Fourre-Tout On Radio bags that fashioned the minimal, briefcase-like bags into a trompe-lœil stereo radio.

Three exceptional looks: Look 5's leather jumpsuit that was part of Nichanian's archive look; the pretty masculine-versus-feminine stylings of look 10; and the super-chic pinstriped knit coordinates that are part of look 49.

The takeaway: Being timeless is always chic.

View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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