Esquire Examines: Burberry SS26

Is Daniel Lee influential enough to bring back skinny trousers?
Published: 23 September 2025

With the passing of Brit music legend Ozzy Osbourne a few months back, the Burberry Summer 2026 runway show felt like a timely tribute. Not that the collection was teeming with shades of black in flowy permutations, but rather, it was a celebration of a uniquely British marriage between music and fashion. Chief creative officer Daniel Lee took notes from a breadth of British subcultures rooted in the spirit, while at the same time, reimagining festival fashion before pressing shuffle on the playlist of references to craft his own remix.

The fit: There was a '70s swathe throughout the Burberry Summer 2026 collection, brought about by a refreshing colour palette of pastel brights you'd expect to see at Glastonbury Festival at the time. Silhouettes were cut slim, with men's tailoring especially, comprising of almost skin-grazing trousers that left little breathing room—are we ready for to trade in wide-leg trousers for the skinny once again? The skinny agenda continued with Burberry Check ties and knitted as well as silk scarves finished with exaggerated fringing.

The outerwear in the collection deserves to be highlighted. They ran the gamut from signature trench coats to raincoats to cropped bombers that were all treated with a bit of an extra oomph. Denim outerwear were intentionally washed before being treated with a foil coating to create an almost waxy sheen. Raincoats were multicoloured variations in cotton and raffia-effect, and treated with a wet look, while leather trenches took on completely tonal forms finished with delicate whipstitching.

(BURBERRY)

The details: This particular collection felt more edited and restraint in terms of incorporating craft in the ready-to-wear pieces—something that Lee is known for. Finishings ranged from fringing to crochet panels that added a sort of festival charm to rigid, contemporary pieces.

Footwear for men were kept relatively simple and pared back, making way for the ready-to-wear pieces to shine a bit more. The python-print checks on boots were easily the standouts and exuded the perfect hint of punk edge, especially on slim tailoring.

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On the bags front, the Hampstead was introduced as a new long shoulder-strapped, almost messenger-like silhouette available in leather as well as suede. The larger iterations would definitely make for versatile everyday companions, while the smaller top-handle ones—decorated with more hardware—are personally a bit proportionally odd for a bag of its shape.

Three exceptional looks: Look 13's green leather trench with beautiful whipstitched trims; the sun-drenched hues of look 25; and the studied combination of prints and colours in look 37.

The takeaway: Harmonious in a lot of ways—this is perhaps the best Burberry collection by Daniel Lee yet.

View the full Burberry Summer 2026 collection in the gallery below.

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