If there’s one thing to note about Kim Jones’ tenure as artistic director of Dior Men, is that the man continuously looks to the past to create fashion for the now and for the future. Jones pays homage to the House’s revered roster of creatives, dives deep into their works and references, and then merges them with his own sensibilities, while at the same time, ensuring that the resulting pieces aren’t constrained to a specific time period. You’d find yourself wearing a Dior Men by Jones piece years later, and you wouldn’t look the least bit dated.
It’s this constant manipulation of time that Jones excels in. For him, time is truly just a construct.
The Dior Men Fall 2025 collection doesn’t necessarily tap into the creative minds of Dior past, but rather, the universality of men’s fashion of the late ’70s to early ’80s. Yet, it just so happens to also be around the period when the late Marc Bohan launched the House’s first foray into menswear, Christian Dior Monsieur—highlighting the growing importance of men’s fashion at a global scale. The collection is Paris meets New York; formal tailoring meets informal separates; and uptown prep meets downtown cool. It’s the amalgamation of distinct elements at both ends of the spectrum for a collection that is insouciant yet refined.
There’s an overall relaxed mood throughout the collection, exemplified by silhouettes that are sumptuous with a voluminous quality. At the same time, they are crafted in such exacting and rigorous manner—a calculated precision. A leather bomber jacket is patterned after the classic MA-1 retaining the elements such as the slanted front pockets and the utility pocket on the left sleeve, but elevated to utilise the suppleness of the leather by exaggerating the size of the former and rounding the utility pockets for a more Dior-esque elegance, all while upping the functionality of these elements.
Tailoring manifests in different forms with typical tailoring fabrications used in more unfamiliar ways. Tailored stripes used in shirting, for example, are cut as bermudas in a hue of blue that leans into the formality of such a material. The pairing of a trench coat with a blue-striped shirt worn with a knit tie easily evokes the kind of New York downtown irreverence that is as timeless as they come, so is the juxtaposition of urban suiting with technical bomber jackets.
Jones reworks a more modern sneaker silhouette to ground the entire collection. The 2004-era B01 sneakers—in essence, inspired by vintage ’70s sneakers—have been reimagined as the B01 Matchpoint sneakers that are more pared down in design with an intentional vintage spirit.
At the heart of the Dior Men Fall 2025 collection is a sense of timelessness. Every piece is designed to be the antithesis to disposable, trend-driven fashion. They may have been inspired by the past, yet crafted to meet the needs and sensibilities of the now. And while none of us can claim to know how fashion will evolve in the future, it’s not difficult to imagine the collection having a place and fitting right in.
The Dior Men Fall 2025 collection is now available in boutiques and online.
Photography: Jackie Nickerson
