When Pharrell Williams was named co-chair for this year’s Black dandy-themed edition of the Met Gala, it wasn’t surprising. The creative director of the Louis Vuitton men’s universe is every bit the modern dandy, with a distinct fashion sense that is neither square nor boring. Williams’ presence and personality are seen and felt through his attire, and it extends to his designs for the House.
The Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2025 menswear collection encapsulates Williams’ dandy sensibilities, further proposing men’s fashion as an outlet for colourful self-expression. The collection takes its cues from the golden age of transatlantic sea travel as well as the glory days of Miami Beach—two points of inspiration that easily conjure up images of sartorial grandeur—merging tailoring with a relaxed attitude, yet detailed with luxurious elements. The collection consists of two chapters: the first is referred to as a transit wardrobe, with an assortment that’s more tailoring-focused coupled with a refined take on sportswear; the second hints at Miami as its final dock, and is teemed with more resort-appropriate pieces that blur the line between day and night loungewear.
The dandy starts off on his journey from Paris in extravagant prints. Moiré takes shape on jacquards, denims and technical cotton-linen, while a new Monogram Regatta print is composed of images of tiny boats. The House’s signature Monogram is seen throughout in a number of variations, but arguably best reimagined as a perforated treatment on a decadent mink overshirt. Smooth shawl-collared and collarless outerwear exemplify the kind of opulent eccentricity dandies favour.
Upon arrival to Miami, the dandy adopts an almost wholly pastel wardrobe marked by elevated lounge and pool attire. Think The White Lotus amped up with an unapologetic riot of prints and colours to confront Miami’s heat. Bright-hued Breton stripes and a multitude of Bengal-striped ready-to-wear accompany shirting and pyjama sets in bold-contrast Monogram Glow motifs. The vibe is easy and breezy but at the same time, drenched in a loud exuberance reflective of Miami at its most festive.
The collection’s bags and accessories serve to complement its ready-to-wear. Unlike the more colourful and print-heavy clothes, the bags are more muted, ensuring that they’re made for multiple journeys all year round. They’re trimmed with aged tan VVT sfumato trims for a more weathered effect, and come with charms that call to cruise-liners and resort environments—alsoshaped into the collection’s fashion jewellery. The House’s Damier motif is transformed into a Denim 3D pattern that appears to be bleached by the sun and seen on a number of bag styles. But the dandy aesthetic isn’t complete without sunglasses for that air of mystery. Sophisticated in essence, the styles—ranging from the ultra-light LV Super Vision to the chunky LV Slide Square—echo a slightly Art Deco sensibility with gold or silver trims around oversized lenses.
If there is anything the recent Met Gala has taught us, it’s that menswear is only considered boring if you choose to surround yourself with tried-and-tested designs. Do as a dandy (or Williams, in this case) and take heed from the past, inject some modernity, and colour outside the lines.
The Louis Vuitton Pre-Autumn 2025 menswear collection is now in boutiques in online.
