As the Artistic Director and Vice President of FRED, Valerie Samuel is also the granddaughter of the brand’s founder, Fred Samuel. The storied French jewellery Maison known for its bold creativity and timeless elegance, earned its moniker as The Sunshine Jeweller; like its appellation, Samuel welcomed us with warmth and candour.
We chatted at the FRED’s boutique at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, where she reflected on the legacy passed down through generations, shared insights into the brand’s creative vision, and recounted the intimate stories that have shaped the Maison’s most iconic collections.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Have you been to Singapore before?
VALERIE SAMUEL: Yes, in fact, I first came to Singapore 15 years ago. I only flew in a couple days before and I couldn’t get much rest on the plane, its unfortunate.
ESQ: Oh no, how are you now?
VS: Good, I’m feeling more well-rested!
ESQ: Alright, as the Artistic Director and Vice President of FRED, what are the main challenges you face in terms of balancing creativity with the business side of things?
VS: Well, I think the first thing that is very important for me is to stay true to our brand DNA and to continue to enrich my grandfather, Fred Samuel’s vision in crafting jewels that match our spirit and also fit our clients’ expectations.
ESQ: How would you describe FRED’s brand personality, and how is it reflected in your designs?
VS: FRED is very much linked to the unique personality and vision of our founder, Fred Samuel, who established the brand in 1936—almost 90 years ago. Today, we encapsulate our FRED DNA through FRED the Sunshine Jeweller, which I think is very much linked to his unique vision and sets us apart from others.
ESQ: Is there a common misconception people have about FRED that you would like to address?
VS: I’m not sure I know what the wrong perception of our Maison is because all the people I meet seem to have quite a good understanding of our unique personality, our caring soul, and generous welcoming.
My grandfather, when he established the brand in 1936, signed his first business card as “the modern jeweller designer” and envisioned jewellery to be created for both men and women. Today, we continue to share and offer that vision to our clients. I haven’t encountered anyone with a totally different vision of the Maison because I think just by living the values of the house, you feel the unique personality of FRED the Sunshine Jeweller.
ESQ: How does the Maison create jewellery that feels fresh and innovative while being immediately identifiable as FRED?
VS: I think it goes back to the start of our discussion—it’s about crafting jewellery that aligns with our brand DNA and strikes the right balance between traditional craftsmanship and the innovative spirit that is very much rooted in our heritage. We call it creative audacity, which has always been one of the drivers of my grandfather’s vision. When you blend all these elements together, you offer jewels that are on-trend and within the now spirit.
As the Creative Director of the Maison, I try to pursue not only my grandfather’s vision but also infuse my own sensibility in terms of design inspiration and trends. For example, when considering new trends—how you wear jewellery, how you stack it, or what new functionalities you might offer—it’s all very contemporary and meets our clients’ expectations.
ESQ: How do you define success for the brand?
VS: I think success is really defined by the appeal to the client. It’s the client who makes the success of the Maison when they feel a connection with the jewellery. Jewellery is about adding something to any precious moment in life—it’s about connection and emotion. So, it’s our clients who define the success of the Maison when you see the appeal of our collections to them.
ESQ: What about your own personal definition of success? How would you define that?
VS: I have a very specific definition of success. I think I’m following my grandfather’s unique personality. I was very close to him—we are both Leos, so I think the solar sign plays a role. For me, success is happiness. I want to enjoy life every day, make every moment special, and every encounter meaningful. That would be my personal achievement of success—if I can succeed in living that dream.
ESQ: Do you think there’s a line between how much you can innovate before breaking tradition? Is there a line?
VS: For me, innovation must be based on traditional craftsmanship. Traditional craftsmanship and excellence should be the foundation of everything you do. You innovate on top of that.
One of the best examples I can share is the Pretty Woman Sunlight Message. It’s a new innovation we launched this year, featuring a hidden secret message within a piece of jewellery that can only be revealed by light—whether sunlight or artificial light. It’s an innovative technology, but it’s crafted with excellence and incorporates all our high jewellery codes.
ESQ: Wait, how is that possible? I’m so confused.
VS: There are little dents and ridges on the piece that manipulates and directs light in a way that we want. The collection was actually inspired by Pretty Woman starring Julia Roberts in the 90s!
ESQ: I find it odd that FRED has a reputation for being popular among a more mature clientele, even though it has such fresh and innovative collections.
VS: On my side, I wouldn’t say we only appeal to a mature clientele. We’ve been in the jewellery business for almost 90 years, so of course, we appeal to a more expert and mature client. But I also feel, when I meet our clients, that we appeal to a very young and trendy audience.
It really depends on your personal journey with jewellery and how you enter the brand. Our youngest high jewellery client is 26 years old—a young lady who bought an extraordinary, one-of-a-kind piece of high jewellery. It’s very personal. What’s certain is that we want to offer jewellery that can be there for any precious moment in life—be it your first graduation, your first job, or your first love—to celebrate those moments with you.
ESQ: Which collection do you consider to be the emblem of FRED, and why?
VS: I would definitely say Force 10. Whenever we open a new market or store, it’s Force 10 that immediately appeals to the broadest range of clients. I think it’s because of its in-the-now spirit, its innovative design, and the values it conveys.
The Force 10 line was created by my father in 1966, inspired by his passion for the sea and sports, inherited from his father. It was very audacious at the time to imagine a jewellery piece made from a nautical cable. He was a European sailing champion, and one day he had the idea of turning a nautical cable into a jewellery piece for my mother. That’s how Force 10 was born.
It’s also versatile—you can play with the cables, and it can go from casual chic to glamorous. It appeals to both younger and more mature clients. It’s truly the emblem of the Maison.
ESQ: Your father created the Force 10 collection for your mother? That’s quite romantic.
VS: Yes, for me, every piece of jewellery has a meaning. You always remember why and when you received a piece—whether it’s the first piece you acquire for yourself or the first piece given to you by someone you love. Every piece in my jewellery box has a story.
ESQ: What’s your personal favourite FRED jewellery piece, and what makes it so special?
VS: That’s a difficult question—it’s like asking which of my children I prefer! I love to select pieces that fit my mood or occasion. I enjoy stacking jewellery. Today, I’m wearing the Force 10 bracelet in a glamorous interpretation with diamonds, paired with a sporty-chic bangle. Force 10 Rise is a piece I love for its simplicity and ease of wear.
ESQ: Force 10 Rise is the latest addition to the Force 10 repertoire. What’s different?
VS: For me, it’s the essence of Force 10—it’s the quintessence of the Force 10 codes, with the buckle and cable encapsulated together in a very elegant, feminine jewellery piece. It’s something you can wear every day and stack, which I really like to do.
ESQ: Do you have a personal anecdote about your grandfather that encapsulates his personality?
VS: It's difficult for me because I have so many anecdotes!
My grandfather was someone very impressive—he was tall and had a warm personality. Everyone who met him remembers him with great emotion. He was known as Monsieur Fred, and his clients became his friends, and his friends became his clients. There was no separation between his personal and professional life.
One memory I’d like to share is my first step into a FRED event at the age of two. It was an exhibition in a mountain resort because my grandfather followed his clients to the mountains in winter and to the south of France in summer. That shows how much FRED was part of our lives.
ESQ: Did you ever feel pressure or expectation to enter the family business?
VS: I think I put the pressure on myself. I was very lucky—there was no pressure from my grandfather or father. From the beginning, they were confident I would take over their heritage and pursue their vision. I started at 18 while studying law, and they gave me their trust and encouragement. They believed it was okay to try something and, if it didn’t work, to try something else. I was very fortunate to have their support.
ESQ: Any stories to share of your early days at FRED?
VS: At the age of 25, I went to deliver a custom one-of-a-kind piece of high jewellery to the Queen of Nepal. I think it was one of my greatest challenges when I was young, and a great memory at the same time.
ESQ: Why was it so challenging?
VS: Can you imagine? It was quite impressive. You travel by yourself to Kathmandu with your creation. You present the piece to the Queen. You’re there, you see all these amazing clients, but you don’t know when you can meet them because you don't have a specific appointment. So, it took a few days.
The Princess and Queen wanted to add two elements for the tiara to also become earrings. The piece ended up becoming a tiara that could transform into necklaces, earrings and brooches.
I remember writing to my father on the fax to tell him about how the audience went (laughing). I’m finding all those notes in our archives again. So, it was really cool to rediscover everything.
ESQ: Before the interview, you mentioned your daughter is currently studying for her master’s in marketing in Singapore. Do you expect her to continue the family legacy?
VS: I will do like my family has done. I will just encourage her to go by her heart and to follow what she feels she would like to do. Of course, she has a very intuitive sensibility about luxury, about jewellery, about creating. She's a little bit younger than you, she's 22! But I think she will follow her own path.
This interview was edited for length and clarity.
