Do you think that your initial reaction to this announcement is not something that crossed the minds of its makers? So what makes them willing to bypass high odds of skepticism to move forward with the project?
Easy. A pure, organic purpose rather than a partnership with a visibility goal to achieve. Collaborations are at an all-time high, but market saturation hardly entered the minds of Peter Gago and Caroline Frey.
Unprecedented (the word had to come up at some point) as the cross-hemisphere collab is, it simply stemmed from a friendship between the two Chief winemakers. Gago is probably well aware of how press release-y that sounds, which is why he speaks about the venture with casual aplomb.
"It happened very naturally," he recounts, mentioning a particular sample that stood out in the initial blind taste test. It was all a trial, until it wasn't. The intercontinental blending of both brands' flagships was not without risk. Thankfully, it was one that paid off. Richly, as Gago would add.
The main concern, as one would expect, was logistics. Location was a quick decision thanks to French winemaking regulations. Good thing Penfolds has had some experience moving wine across the ocean (à la California Collection), so stainless steel air freight it was. "Easier said than done," Gago muses, citing how oxygen levels and optimal temperatures have to be carefully monitored and controlled.
Plus, with one parent originating from the Southern hemisphere and the other hailing from the Northern meant a six-month gap between the two yields.
At precisely 50 per cent Grange and 50 per cent La Chapelle, the ratio couldn't have been more perfect. The magical allocation was chosen for its taste profile over looking nice on label. For wine nerds, maturation is another complex meld (100 per cent new American oak for Grange and 20 per cent new French oak for La Chapelle).
Delphine Frey, co-owner of Domaine de la Chapelle who jointly hosted us, rightly calls this endeavour a project of trust. Both she and Gago are adamant you will taste neither Australian Shiraz nor French Syrah. Instead, a wine that has its own identity.
Well, they're right, and we're not just saying it. It's almost alarming how smooth it is for a wine so bold. Dark berries come forefront, followed by an underlying richness that's balanced and neat. Even more alarming, we suppose, in view of the price tag; because it now makes it harder to justify not splashing thousands on dollars on a bottle.
It is, after all, a luxury product. We're no wine experts, but knowing we stand with the positive global reception during its launch in Paris earlier this year is a little affirming. We're told it's currently sold out on Penfolds' homeground.
Fate is a word Gago frequents in this narrative. Understandable, when it could be traced back some 38 years to a The Institute of Masters of Wine tasting involving both names. "There was no guarantee," the esteemed winemaker refers to early days, "but it's a project with a real vision and true synergy."
You also know it is when he uses the term "courageous", not "ambitious". With 2022 already in motion and 2023 in barrel, the spirit the makers carry is not one of brash confidence, but relaxed ease. At a sip, it's not difficult to see why.
Grange La Chapelle 2021 is priced at SGD3,200 and available in very limited quantities exclusively through the Grange La Chapelle website
