What started out as a purveyor of yoga apparel in Vancouver, Canada, in 2000, has become synonymous with athleisure. lululemon is known—and loved—for its deft execution of activewear, designed for function, with the bonus of being stylish and proper enough to be worn pre- and post-activity. You know you're doing something right when your target audience spans from legions of yoga practitioners to the average man who favours the look and feel of the versatile lululemon ABC trousers.
"I really think it has become a symbol of movement," Saul Nash says of lululemon. The London-based designer has launched his first collaboration with the brand—a multi-season effort dubbed SLNSH. The first drop is already available in boutiques and propels lululemon further into the consciousness of the fashion set for whom style permeates every facet of life. The movement-focused collection (a theme that is central to Nash's eponymous brand) combines lululemon's technical ingenuity with Nash's own expertise in designing with a focus on performance and style.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: You mentioned in an interview after winning the 2022 Woolmark Prize: "The need for constant change in fashion can sometimes cause designers to rush, which can often cause us to explore new categories before we are ready." SLNSH does feel like a new category albeit still in line with your own brand ethos. What made you ready to collaborate with a brand like lululemon?
SAUL NASH: Honestly, when I embarked on this collaboration, I felt ready. I guess it came at the right time. I was really excited by the idea of exploring how far we could push things in a way that creates something unique in its own right. SLNSH is a coming together of two worlds. It has allowed me to explore true sportswear with a company that has access to technical innovations beyond what I could imagine. SLNSH has allowed me to partner with lululemon in a way that pushes technical innovation and has allowed me to fully explore what movement looks like through the lens of performance.
ESQ: What was the initial intent for SLNSH?
SN: SLNSH is really the bringing together of two worlds, through a shared interest in movement. The collection encourages the wearers to express themselves and find where they fit within the world of SLNSH.
ESQ: You've integrated the lululemon logo organically into the designs of the SLNSH pieces. Was this an intentional way of delineating SLNSH as an offshoot of the main lululemon line, as opposed to creating a SLNSH logo?
SN: It was important from the beginning to ensure that SLNSH sat in a universe that incorporated the codes of both brands in a new and exciting way. Continuous seam lines is a key code of my own brand so it only felt right to bring it to the collaboration. The SLNSH lock up came about as a way to subvert the Saul Nash name paired with the lululemon logo, ultimately bringing both brands together. It was important not to take so much of the traditional collaboration approach where it would often be one brand's logo x another.
ESQ: The colour palette of this first SLNSH collection looks pretty monochromatic. What is the intention behind that?
SN: Colour is very important to me, so it was extremely important that these garments could modulate and fit in within customers' existing wardrobe but still have the ability to stand out as key pieces. Layering within the collection allowed me to use bright colours in some places but then tone down in other places. Texture was also important with the introduction of the lululemon logo graphic, which allows the wearer to recognise it when looking from afar.
ESQ: Is there a particular technique or design element from this first SLNSH collection that you're most excited about?
SN: I really like the aspects of hybridity throughout the collection, the leather alternative belt bags that transform into handbags, and running jackets that, when their sleeves are removed, become effortless overshirts.
ESQ: How would you imagine lululemon customers integrating SLNSH into their wardrobes?
SN: I'd hope the garments will fit seamlessly in their pre-existing wardrobe and also be the statements to complete their outfits. Whether they are going to the gym or going on a night out.
ESQ: As someone with a dance background, how does your design process start? Is it through an imagining of how these clothes would move before sketching or something else completely?
SN: I think movement and understanding of it has been a huge part of a long-standing process, which has eventually become an image to the way I think about clothing. In the inception stages of my brand, this would be more physical through actually having dancers move in my clothes. However, over time, this has become integral to the thought process in general. Whether it be through material choice, cut or the way garments are finished.
ESQ: This first collection revolves around the idea of metamorphosis. What makes you feel changed personally?
SN: I think metamorphosis marks a change or evolution for me. It also marks the change in the people who wear the brand and addresses the contexts they may find themselves in. While they may need to work out in the gym, they also need to dress up in a way that makes them feel appropriately attired for, say, a meeting. It also symbolises transformation.
ESQ: How do you feel you've grown as a designer from when you first started your own brand in 2018?
SN: I think, as my clothing is often a reflection of myself and my experiences, it often reflects the stage I find myself at. While the core DNA of the brand has never changed, the wardrobe of the man has definitely grown exploring what movement looks like beyond solely sportswear.
The SLNSH collection is now available at lululemon.