Patek Philippe enthusiasts had much to digest last week at Watches and Wonders at Geneva, with the Maison unveiling 15 new novelties. In case you haven't been keeping up, here's what went down with Patek Philippe: for starters, the Calatrava has grown slightly to 38mm and now boasts a larger power reserve, while the Cubitus has been downsized to 40mm, and the Nautilus received a glitzier makeover. Patek also revived a highly complicated manual-winding desk clock, amongst a rich array of artisanal creations under its Rare Handcrafts catalogue.
All of these are undeniably exciting developments, but what really caught our attention were the latest additions to the Grand Complications repertoire. This year, Patek introduced three standout references: the Quadruple Complication, Split-Seconds Chronograph, and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar.
What was once a limited-edition release at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo in 2023, the Quadruple Complication has entered the fray of Patek’s permanent catalogue. Featuring a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph with two patented mechanisms, and a perpetual calendar, this watch makes a staggering statement at 42mm in diameter and a substantial 17.71mm thickness. Yet, given its status as one of the maison’s most technologically impressive timepieces to date, its heft is understandable.
With so many complications, legibility was paramount in designing the dial. An icy baby-blue sunburst finish provides the backdrop, lending a modern edge with its satin appearance—its delicate lightness offsetting the watch’s bold proportions. The white gold case further enhances its silky elegance.
The perpetual calendar’s day, date, and month windows are displayed in a sweeping arc between 10 and 2 o’clock. Meanwhile, the split-seconds chronograph—a complication widely regarded as one of the three most difficult to produce (the other two are perpetual calendars and minute repeaters)—features 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively. This integration posed the greatest challenge for Patek, requiring two new patents to perfect. At 9 o’clock, a slide activates the minute repeater, where two gongs hammer out Patek’s signature chime.
With complications aplenty, one can imagine the mechanical ballet unfolding within—but fortunately, we don’t have to. The self-winding calibre R CHR 27 PS QI, in all of its dynamic beauty, is visible through the sapphire caseback. Though it is also interchangeable with a solid white gold one if you so choose.
Perhaps the most visually striking of the Patek bunch is its latest split-seconds chronograph. The pairing of a brown dial and rose gold case is what carries the heavy load here. The brown Grand Feu enamel dial, with beige champlevé enamel subdials and a tachymeter scale is surrounded by rose gold accents that lend the watch qualities of olde vintage warmth and regality. Details like the rose-gold leaf-shaped hands and Breguet numerals only add to its retro charm.
The 41mm rose gold case plays on textural contrasts quite subtly: brushed recessed grooves juxtapose polished rectangular pushers and a crown with an integrated pusher for the split-seconds mechanism.
Turn the watch over and you’ll find the mesmerising manual movement with intricate components that tangle, yet flow like a well-orchestrated symphony. The CHR 29-535 PS calibre showcases a mix of polished, brushed, grained, and bevelled surfaces and offers a power reserve of 65 hours.
Paired with a shiny chestnut-brown alligator leather strap and triple-blade folding clasp engraved with the brand’s logo, it makes you wonder whether Patek’s split-seconds chronograph was always meant to look like this.
If you admired the visuals of Patek’s Grand Complications Ref. 5316P from 2023, but felt it a touch too complex for your taste, you'll likely enjoy the all-new Perpetual Calendar Retrograde a lot. This latest release pares things down by removing the tourbillon and minute repeater, but offers a similar aesthetic. Familiar elements remain here—a sweeping arc detailing the days of the month still runs from 4 to 8 o’clock. Trace the curve and you’ll find familiar windows at 9, 12, and 3 o’clock that display the day, leap-year cycle, and month. At 6 o’clock, the moon phase—requiring adjustment only once every 122 years—sits comfortably.
The most intriguing feature, however, remains the sapphire crystal dial with its black-gradient rim. The translucent surface has an almost vignette effect, teasing glimpses to the inner workings of the watch, without fully revealing them completely. It strikes the balance between maintaining perfect legibility, while satisfying the thrill of peering into what’s hiding beneath.
A key difference from its predecessor is the use of Clous de Paris guilloché along the bezel and caseback. Speaking of which, the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S QR is also visible through the back, showcasing Patek’s technical mastery in motion.
For more information, visit Patek Philippe's website
