We've been here before—a Gucci without a creative director. Weeks after letting go of Sabato De Sarno, the Italian fashion house went ahead with its scheduled co-ed Autumn/Winter 2025 runway show, put together by its in-house design team.

It was a stunning venue. Built around the House's interlocking G logo and dressed in its emblematic deep green hue (almost to counter the Ancora red that was part of De Sarno's creative direction), it was a rather stark contrast to the show spaces of the past couple of years. In retrospect, the Autumn/Winter 2025 runway show felt more Gucci—luxurious and glossy, instead of the often industrial-esque spaces chosen. Coupled with the original composition by Oscar-winning composer Justin Hurwitz (performed by a live orchestra), there was a cinematic quality to the whole production. And with that, it was as though the ghostly presence of Tom Ford was summoned.

The collection looked fine. It was a combination of the Ford era with subtle stylings of Alessandro Michele, but almost always leaning towards the former, especially with respect to the menswear portion. There was a slight '70s nuance punctuated by oversized metal frames and fabrics that called to the time period, but also an intentional use of monochromatic styling that while chic, felt a bit out of place.

In short, like what Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of Kering, has reportedly said, Gucci needs a creative director "promptly".

The fit: Styled by Suzanne Koller, the collection had a touch of that bourgeois-skewed aesthetic she's known for. For menswear, that translated to offbeat pairings of tailoring with a furry knit as per look 51 or statements glossy coats worn over a muted base. But if anything, the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2025 collection felt foundational—you wouldn't necessarily put these pieces together for yourself like Koller, but there were enough individual staples to craft into your own.

As mentioned, the monochromatic tailoring were probably the more chic proposals from the collection. They were done in full-on suiting as well as the more Ford-esque pairings of double-breasted suit and turtleneck that were executed beautifully.

The details: Much like its previous transitional collection, Gucci took the opportunity to zero in on its heritage icons, with an emphasis on its Horsebit motif. It appeared as a large metal hardware on the collection's latest large shoulder bag crafted to be slouchy and supple, as well as the more women's focused Gucci Siena handbag fitted with a half-Horsebit front closure.

There was an attempt by the design team to be a bit more experimental. A Gucci holdall was seen designed with a handle on its side that allowed it to be carried vertically. It's a bit of an odd choice in terms of practicality or even visually, but perhaps there's something to it that I'm not particularly aware of.

Three exceptional looks: Look 34's speckled coat in quite a perfect cut; look 35's very Ford-Gucci with its cropped leather biker worn with skinny trousers; and the simple elegance of an all-cream look that was look 59.

The takeaway: Gucci really wants to revive its Tom Ford era.

View the full Gucci Autumn/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery below.