When Bvlgari sought to create its snake-like Serpenti design, it turned to the Tubogas technique. The origins of the Tubogas is humble—inspired by gas pipes used to transport pressurised gas in the 1920s, which were corrugated as a result of metal wrapping around them for added protection. In jewellery, the technique was practised in the late 19th century, but it wasn’t until Bvlgari that the Tubogas became popular.

The time-consuming technique involves wrapping gold strips around a core structure in order to create flexible bands without the need of soldering. There is a characteristic bounce to the Tubogas, which also gives a rather comfortable fit around the wrist, as exemplified by Bvlgari’s first Serpenti watch introduced in 1948. The house’s artisans then continued to dedicate time in perfecting the technique by exploring other materials and incorporating elements as a way of experimenting with the unique intricacies.

Since then, countless other Bvlgari creations—from jewellery to timepieces—have incorporated the Tubogas technique. But it has always been just that: a technique synonymous with Bvlgari and an example of the kind of ingenuity the house is known for. That has changed with the Bvlgari Tubogas.

For the first time in more than 70 years, the technique has now been given its own collection, showcasing the distinctive striped look and its versatility across different expressions. The Bvlgari Tubogas collection takes reference from the first aforementioned creation by the house, with an almost exclusively yellow gold foundation that is added with extra flourishes. The collection’s four bracelets, for example, range from pure yellow gold at its simplest to a duo of variations decorated tastefully with diamonds—either studded or concentrated at the two ends of a cuff-styled bracelet. A tri-gold variation follows the simplicity of the all-gold but imbued with a more contemporary flair.

The necklaces are where Bvlgari takes it up a couple of notches. A majority of the designs are choker styles with the Tubogas used to create a sort of rigid flexibility. The shape of the necklaces stays fixed and contour the neck seamlessly without feeling... well, choked.

Just like the bracelets, they range from clean yellow gold to variations with diamond pavés. Three expressions up the ante by combining the Tubogas with another of Bvlgari icons, the Parentesi. Defined by the geometric motifs inspired by Roman pavements, they are set with a central precious stone—rubellite, tanzanite or green tourmaline—and surrounded by a pavé of diamonds as well as hard stone inserts. The Tubogas itself is reworked into a triangular shape that’s not only more complex to craft but visually adds volume and sophistication to the pieces.

Familiar Serpenti styles are revisited for Bvlgari Tubogas in the form of necklaces as well as a ring and bracelet. Each feature a more classic serpent head with diamond pavés echoing the coiling of the Tubogas in a sort of sinewy dance that is rather mesmerising to look at.

The final piece in the collection is a Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas timepiece. It combines the best of the house in a 21mm-gold case (there could very be a much larger, male-appropriate size in the future, who knows) fixed to a completely tubular rendition of the Tubogas—a nod to its humble beginnings.

Given the 16 different designs within the Bvlgari Tubogas collection, Bvlgari isn’t playing around with this new debut. The Tubogas technique is one of the markers of the house and to finally give it the spotlight that it rightly deserves has been a long time coming.

The Bvlgari Tubogas jewellery collection is now available in boutiques and online.