Autumn/Winter 2024 Menswear Trends: Part Two

A focus on the make and feel of materials, craft-centric details, and new classics, the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections are gearing us up for a future where fashion is past hype and mere aesthetics
Published: 13 October 2024

Denim daze

You may be familiar with Loro Piana’s CashDenim series. While CashDenim pieces look exactly like traditional denim, the brand has transformed the hand feel of the hardy material by infusing precious cashmere. This not only gives the resulting fabric a luxuriously soft touch, it also enhances the durability of denim with the added boon of heat-retaining properties without making the wearer feel the heat. Basically, CashDenim is denim made better.

Denim has been around for centuries and the advancement of fabric technologies has allowed it to take on forms that previously would have been unthinkable. CashDenim is relatively new, having been launched in 2022, and is a fine example of brands experimenting with denim in new ways.

This season, Berluti introduces a speckled Canadian tuxedo crafted with cotton-silk-infused denim for a deceptively hefty piece—you wouldn’t necessarily be able to feel the silk by touch but there’s a marked difference in weight. Prada’s all-denim looks for Autumn/Winter 2024 are some of the thinnest manipulations of the fabric we’ve ever experienced that they almost seem un-denim-like.

While it’s not exactly tweaking the composition or make of denim like the others are doing, Kenzo deserves special mention for creating denim that appears almost like jacquard. Cleverly making use of contrast topstitching, a full denim look is decorated with a “Kenzo Star Tiger” motif that looks incredibly elaborate.

Touch it

If it isn’t already apparent, luxury is more than that visual appeal at the very first glance. While bold, striking colours and designs are undoubtedly special, the feel of a piece of ready-to-wear evokes that same kind of experience that luxury fashion should provide. If you’re shelling out upwards of four figures for an outerwear, it better feel every bit as special as it’s made out to be.

(BOTTEGA VENETA)
(FENDI)
(GIVENCHY)
(ZEGNA)
(HERMÈS)
(TOD'S)
(GIORGIO ARMANI)
(MCQUEEN)

Textural pieces are emphasised this season through technical explorations of craft as well as materiality. Fendi’s slew of outerwear ranging from zip-up jackets to knee-length coats have an almost homespun slant with textures that look and feel plush. A plaid coat amps up the tactile experience with raglan sleeves of a contrasting texture from its bodice. Chunky cable knits by Tod’s employ the use of different colours as an example of elevated knitting techniques—they’re also trimmed with contrasting ribbing for added tactility.

What appeared like pony hair on the Hermès runway turns out to be calfskin upon closer inspection. The calfskins used are heavily polished to effect a beautiful pony hair-like sheen that catches light with every movement. And of course, they feel as decadent as they look—all for the wearer to experience and appreciate fashion on a more sensory level.

Grand Gran

It was earlier this year on award show red carpets that lapel pins and brooches suddenly became a trend among Hollywood celebrity stylists. Almost every single male celebrity sported a version of one, pairing it with all manner of tailoring.

The Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collections are rife with brooches and they’re mostly grandmother-like in nature. You know what we’re talking about—those impossibly bold ’90s designs in shades of gold that our grandmothers used to hold two ends of a scarf together or simply as a piece of statement jewellery to complete an evening jacket. Hey, who said anything about brooches and pins being for a specific gender anyway?

Dolce&Gabbana had a multitude of variations attached to almost every look in its monochromatic collection, while Emporio Armani’s more subdued versions are used to finish relaxed tailoring. In true grandmother fashion, Fendi replaced button fastenings with bejewelled FF brooches as a way of securing coats and cardigans.

Jewellery in menswear has become more prevalent. It’s not unusual to finish an outfit with rings or earrings or even necklaces. The addition of a brooch is a long time coming, and who doesn’t love more options to play around with?

Light as air

(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)
(ZEGNA)

Zegna’s Oasi Cashmere is a marvel in that not only is the brand committed to keeping it fully traceable, the fabrics resulting from it are testament to Zegna’s mastery in innovation. The Autumn/ Winter 2024 collection employs the use of Oasi Cashmere in myriad ways, pushing the limits of cashmere’s use beyond the traditional.

Cashmere over cashmere over cashmere are layered to create monochromatic looks that protect, while reinforcing the idea of luxurious preciousness. They’re shaped into multi-melange cashmere tops and sweaters, cashmere suiting as well as cashmere-backed plongé leather. The latter may seem visually hefty, but are mind-blowingly lightweight in feel. It helps too that Oasi Cashmere benefits from artistic director Alessandro Sartori’s billowy and oversized silhouettes that serve to showcase the material in the best ways possible.

What’s especially evident—and has since become a running theme at Zegna—is that the pieces are timeless in nature. The heavily layered looks are easily broken down to individual pieces that can then be paired with garments from previous as well as upcoming collections. Investments are only as good as their returns and you’d be rest assured that these are definitely every bit bang for your buck.

The bigger the better

One would think that with increased digitalisation, the need for bags would become obsolete. But instead, they’re getting bigger than ever. We’ve reached the other end of the spectrum when it comes to bags—it was only a few years ago when bags that could hardly fit a pair of AirPods were a thing.

Thankfully, capacious bags are more functional. If you think about it, they actually make sense for the multifaceted lifestyles that we lead. Whether we’re working from just about anywhere aside from the office, or cram our after-office hours with fitness classes (and more work), a bag that fits in all that’s needed makes a worthy investment.

Balenciaga’s nifty offering is the Bel Air XL Carry All bag that’s designed with a wide front pocket and an incredibly roomy main compartment with two zipped pockets and two flat pockets on the inside. The generous handle drop is non-adjustable but it allows for shoulder as well as hand carry. Gucci’s more traditional shape—you could easily bring this to the office—comes with an extra adjustable shoulder strap. The tote bag in question is crafted in leather that gives its structured shape but is as soft as it is sturdy (as evident from the how the models carried them on the runway).

For part one of the Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear trends.

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