You’ve probably heard of the name Madame Fan by now—you know, the Cantonese restaurant tucked away at The NCO Club with a Michelin Plate distinction. I’ll spare you the long-winded introduction, but they’ve just unveiled a new à la carte menu that’s all about evoking nostalgia. In case you haven’t heard or need a refresher, Madame Fan is an art-deco-inspired restaurant that reimagines Cantonese classics with a contemporary flair.
Much of the 1920s glamour comes from the space itself. Diamond patterns dance across the floor in perfect symmetry, while private areas are partitioned with folding doors adorned in gilded Chinese woodwork. Grand chandeliers run down the center of the restaurant, and mirrors reflect plush red-velvet chairs, amplifying the hedonistic allure. Think… Jay Gatsby hosting a dinner party. But he's Cantonese.
It might sound like Madame Fan is having an identity crisis but rest assured, because everything from the food to the atmosphere of the space brings everything together in a way that feels oddly cohesive.
The Deep-Fried Queen Crab sets the tone for the new menu. The pairing of sweet queen crab and rich osmanthus egg crumble rests on a shiso leaf that’s expertly fried to mimic the shell of a crab, lending a subtle crunch to each bite. The result is an umami punch reminiscent of those precious, flavourful crumbs at the bottom of childhood snack packets.
Tangerine Peel Yellow Croaker Fish is delicately poached in salt water, celery, and shallot oil, allowing the essence of the fish to mingle with its aromatic companions. This creates a subtle broth that exercises restrain—building on the flavour of the fish itself, rather than overpower it. Then, there’s the Fruity Garlic Black Char Siew, a classic that’s been reinvented by swapping the traditional honey glaze for a sticky, fruitier one. Finger limes and oranges (among other fruits) not only brighten the dish but also release enzymes that help break down the protein, tenderising the meat.
The meal would not have felt complete without the Assorted Seafood and Tofu Rice, a hearty bed of rice submerged in a secret crab roe sauce to create a satisfying finish to the main course.
Before you leave, give the Crispy Banana a go. It’s an elevated version of your usual banana fritter that manages to separate itself from its predecessor thanks to a delicate crust formed by cheese blended into the flour. You get what you expect here; a unique mouthfeel of gooey sweetness and crunch that might just recreate the wonder of biting into your first banana fritter, just as Madame Fan intended.
