There’s something really nice about knowing that the accommodation you’re setting camp at has an extensive history. Its mere presence a proof that it effortlessly accomplishes what other businesses can only attempt to do—withstand the test of time.
Not just the 14 years since it has been established under the Dorchester Collection. It traces back to 1066 (you read that right) when the land was first bestowed by the last Saxon king of England to Westminster Abbey.
Fast forward seven centuries or so, and Coworth House was built for East India merchant William Shepheard, whose namesake suite I had the opportunity to spend two nights in. Suites and cottages inherit their names from previous owners through the generations; another honouring of the manor’s historical significance.
The property reads like a chronicle of what the grounds have seen. The enduring theme as the only hotel in the entire UK where you can learn to play polo and continue watching world-class matches is inevitably equestrian. Besides décor (a favourite being the cheeky horse portraits in the tea room), even the vast wildflower meadow before the mansion house is carefully calibrated to reach full bloom in time for the Royal Ascot, which race course Coworth Park is one of the closest lodgings to.
The quietly magnificent bronze tree that greets you in the lobby was cast from an actual tree; the dried branches are a unique motif adorning the bedposts in the suites. Outside, the sunken garden’s floral myriad is a pretty and very English sight, but the lime grove easily steals the attention. It may not look like much from afar but passing through the picturesque tunnel of trees from within feels about as healing as it can get.
The hotel offers a variety of activities spanning archery, falconry, duck herding, beekeeping, uh, laser clay shooting and more. Honestly though, just taking a peaceful stroll to admire the vicinity suffices. What I thought would be a quick jaunt along the perimeter of the estate took me an hour. Bypassing the field and stables managed by the esteemed Guards Polo Club, a pond or two, a tennis court and a helipad.
Alright, it is a sprawling 240 acres after all. If that isn’t enough nature immersion, trot over to the nearby Windsor Great Park. It’s sizeable but personally would recommend walking instead of using provided bicycles since some lanes are footpaths only, and the pedestrian lanes leading there require an experienced rider.
A heated pool with music playing underwater. The absolute pastoral tranquility where the only thing remotely reminding you of modernity would be occasional planes flying overhead. And I can’t believe I’m saying this about English cuisine, but the food was one of the highlights.
Aptly monikered The Barn, the restaurant that once hosted impromptu post-polo parties has a casual ambience to settle into nicely. The smoked then seared starter is probably the best version of mackerel I’ve ever had. For mains, the lamb rump (recommended by an aesthetician at the hotel’s award-winning spa) came up to expectations, paired with a chimichurri sauce that only further enhanced the tender meat.
36km from London or a half-hour drive from Heathrow airport, Coworth Park is not the only refined retreat in the precinct. Yet, what sets it apart is while rightfully elegant in a big-brand vein, there is a radiating warmth and cosiness that feels nearly domestic. It is reassurance that for the ensuing few Coworth Park days, you’re in for true rural charm.
