In an age where stainless steel watches are mass-produced by stainless steel machines, independent watchhouse Lang & Heyne is a refreshing anomaly. Their secret? Crafting every watch by hand. German watchmaker Jens Schneider, under the leadership of CEO Alexander Gutierrez, is steadfast in their commitment to traditional craftsmanship and vintage design.
But what does it take to marry the old with the new; to balance heritage with innovation? We sit with Gutierrez and Schneider to delve into the heart of Lang & Heyne, the challenges of carving out an identity in a crowded market and the sheer artistry behind each timepiece.
ESQUIRE SINGAPORE: Who is Lange & Heyne for?
ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: You are in our target group if you are someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, whether it's handmade cars like Morgan or Pagani, or gourmet food and fine dining. Our customers are connoisseurs who are settled, not show-offs. They cherish what they own for themselves. If you enjoy admiring the movement of a watch and winding it yourself, you could be one of our targets.
ESQ: What have been some of the most significant challenges you’ve faced as CEO, and how have you overcome them?
ALEXANDER: The biggest challenge has been defining the DNA of Lang & Heyne, a relatively young brand at just 21 years old. Unlike established brands, we don't have a long history or celebrity endorsements to lean on. Instead, our focus is on the product itself, emphasising high-end craftsmanship and in-house production. Our Saxonian heritage plays a crucial role, and we honour it by naming our watches after Saxonian kings, rather than using reference numbers. Balancing traditional watchmaking with contemporary approaches, like using both handcrafting and modern machinery, has been key. Bringing all that together, and in the end, having a successful company, is the main challenge, I would say.
ESQ: Given the prevalence of contemporary watch designs, why has Lang & Heyne continued its commitment to vintage design elements?
ALEXANDER: We want to maintain our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we continue with vintage design elements. Our approach is more about elegance and tradition rather than flashy, complicated features. We focus on craftsmanship, especially the artistic work done by hand, which is central to our brand's identity. This combination of vintage design with a contemporary approach is what sets us apart. For example, the Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition showcases this blend by incorporating modern materials like ceramic while retaining a classic aesthetic.
ESQ: What are the current trends in the luxury watch market, and how is Lang & Heyne positioning itself to stay ahead?
ALEXANDER: The current trend in the luxury watch market is a shift towards independent watchmakers and unique, niche products. Don’t get me wrong, I don't want to say big brands are not important anymore, but collectors and enthusiasts are increasingly seeking something different and special. At Lange & Heyne, we focus on artisan craftsmanship and customisation, allowing customers to personalise details like hands, dial colours, and materials. This personalised approach sets us apart from larger brands that often can't offer such bespoke options. By catering to these niche demands, Lange & Heyne is becoming a significant player in the independent sector.
ESQ: Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new watch?
JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne watch should be one you can use every day. We don't want to make watches that just sit in a cupboard. It should be easy to read the time and simple to wind. That's the starting point for me. Then I think about the watch's character. The next step is to gather information from my mind—things I've seen in historical watches and technical solutions—and combine them with my own ideas. You can't invent a completely new watch; it's about creating new combinations of known elements from the past with new technology or materials.
Next, I create a simple sketch of the gear train. It's just circles, but the dimensions of the circles determine the correct position of the hands on the dial. The final step is to design the watch in 3D on the computer. This isn't easy because you have to consider how all the parts fit together. If you change one part, you have to think about how it affects the others. This is the process we follow.
ESQ: How do you balance aesthetics with functionality when designing a new watch?
JENS: A watch that looks good but has no function isn't truly aesthetic. The function is what matters. For example, a very small balance wheel in the corner isn't appealing because it doesn't function well. It's all about the combination: the function should lead, and the aesthetics should serve the function
ESQ: How do you integrate modern technology with traditional watchmaking techniques?
JENS: You need to be knowledgeable about materials. For instance, using a diamond tool requires a combination of skilled craftsmanship and modern materials. We also use modern machinery. Today, I design using Computer Numerical Control (CNC) programs and machines to create the raw parts. For example, the hands of the Louis watch have a traditional shape, which we achieve through hand engraving after the raw material is cut with a laser.
ESQ: How do you two collaborate on a project from concept to completion?
JENS: We usually start with a brainstorming session, whether it's an idea from a customer, a special request, or an internal concept. We discuss the feasibility of the idea, considering both creative and practical aspects because a watchmaker has many ideas, but you cannot realise every idea. We have to consider the economic or capacity constraints, so we prioritise based on importance and resource availability.
ALEXANDER: We often work on custom projects, whether for a large order from a group like SHH or a single piece for an individual customer. The process involves detailed discussions about design, complications, and production logistics. For instance, when Sincere Haute Horlogerie requests a specific number of watches, we assess our ability to meet that volume and the specific requirements. Throughout the project, there's constant communication to refine the design and ensure it aligns with both our capabilities and the customer's expectations. For example, the success of previous models like the first and second Georg gave us confidence in the design's appeal and guided the project from concept to completion.
