Esquire Examines: Giorgio Armani, and Tod's SS25 Menswear

All the things to know from the Giorgio Armani, and Tod's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear shows during Milan Fashion Week
Published: 24 June 2024

Giorgio Armani

The staging of the Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear runway show was as minimal as one would expect of the brand. Tropical foliage were projected on the walls—abstract in the form of shadows but distinct enough that one would understand the collection's theme and seasonality. And much like the staging, the collection was Mr Armani's own way of conceptualising a summer-themed collection without actually sending down a collection teeming with all manner of flora and fauna.

The fit: It's easy to imagine Mr Armani heading on a safari adventure because the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection alludes to the lifestyle, especially in its opening looks. In true Armani form, there's hardly any deviation from the signature Giorgio Armani look—a neutral palette of relaxed silhouettes and a deftly handled balance of formal and sporty. But even in the expected shades of blues, greys, and creams, the materiality stood out. Silky fabrications enhanced the sense of lightness that came through, punctuated by light layers and an unrestricted sense of styling.

The details: Lapel-less blazers make a return on a number of looks—as full suited coordinates as well as broken suits—while a decidedly monochromatic styling was topped with silk scarves and hats. Prints reflected the projections on the walls, decorating silky pieces with coconut trees and palm leaves in contrasting colours that are still part of the Giorgio Armani colour palette.

Three exceptional looks: Look 7's simple ensemble in a metallic sheen; the breezy air of look 54 even with a slightly heavy top; and look 71's statement branding (hardly a Giorgio Armani element) that's refreshing.

The takeaway: There's always a way of creating newness while staying true to one's aesthetic.

View the full Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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Tod's

In his Tod’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear debut, creative director Matteo Tamburini reminded us that true sophistication lies in craftsmanship, not theatrics. The collection celebrated Tod’s roots in Italian luxury while embracing a sleek, modern edge. Forget ostentation—Tamburini’s vision was grounded, restrained, and brimming with quiet confidence.

The fit: There’s a remarkable balance at play here. Earth tones set the mood, while luxe fabrics steal the show. Tamburini’s light-as-air nappa field jackets and deconstructed suits don’t shout; they nod coolly, capturing an effortless allure. Pashmy suede, as soft as cashmere, took the form of jackets such as the Bomber, the Gio Jacket and the Shirt Jacket, fusing plush elegance with everyday utility. The collection was a seamless blend of luxury and utility that only Tod’s, with its artisanal heritage, could master.

The details: The iconic Gommino loafer is updated in a sleek sabot cut that's equally intriguing—a fresh take on a classic that's just casual enough. The Di Bag was reinterpreted in a sack version in a number of canvas and leather variants that further enhances its versatility and functionality—and perhaps, made even more desirable than before.

The takeaway: By focusing on the timeless rather than the trend-driven, Tamburini’s Tod’s feels refreshingly grounded, yet undeniably modern.

View some of the Tod's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection in the gallery below.

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