Mountains have always mystified me. These ancient structures have watched civilisations come and go, oceans dry up, and even observed life itself take its first steps. I like to think of them as magisters of earth of sorts—these colossal, celestial beings who’ve silently bore witness to our planet’s history for centuries, but, for whatever reason just never felt the need to say anything.
So, when I heard of a watch brand with an ethos rooted in mountainous exploration, my interest was piqued.
You might have heard the name NORQAIN floating around in the world of horology—that brand with a logo featuring sharp, jagged edges forming a mountain. Or perhaps you haven’t, and you’d be excused. Established just seven years ago, the youthfulness of this Swiss watch company belies the ancient mountains they so admire. Yet, as I would soon come to realise, age in this case truly is just a number. The family-owned company caters to a niche market of outdoor and alpine enthusiasts, which explains the rugged logo composed of two interlocking “N”s.
I had the privilege of spending a week with a NORQAIN watch—the Independence Skeleton Chrono, to be precise. It’s NORQAIN’s first flyback chronograph, inspired by the world’s tallest mountains.
Upon first encountering the 42mm-wide watch, I expected a certain heft, given its size. However, as I lifted it, my expectations were unmet—largely due to its Grade 5 titanium lightweight case, which keeps the watch under 90 grams.
This featherlight quality can also be attributed to its skeletonised dial, where portions of the dial have been carefully stripped away to reveal the intricate inner workings of the watch. What remains is a purple open-worked bridge, with the top half carved to mimic NORQAIN’s signature mountain motif.
This sits atop the brand’s all-new 8K Manufacture Calibre, whose namesake was derived from the world’s 14 highest peaks, often referred to as “Eight-Thousanders.” The skeletonised calibre lives up to this name, featuring a flyback chronograph function, making it the brand’s most ambitious mechanical creation to date.
To understand why this is so, let’s revisit how flyback chronographs work. A standard chronograph requires three steps to restart timing: stop, reset, and start again. A flyback, however, can perform all three actions simultaneously with a single press of a button.
Pressing the button felt crisp and satisfying, without any of that jerky start-stop resistance found in typical chronographs. This is made possible off the back of an intricate column wheel—usually found in high-end chronographs due to the precise finishing and expert assembly required to integrate it into a calibre—which helps reduce resistance in the pushers.
While we’re on the topic, it’s worth noting that the bi-directional automatic winding system not only boasts a power reserve of 62 hours but is also COSC-certified. Additional complications include a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 12.
Compositional contrast is the name of the game. The black DLC (diamond-like carbon) titanium case undergoes a trio of finishes: polishing, brushing, and sandblasting to give the watch some added dimension through its multi-tiered layer of variating surfaces. The movement itself is finished with polished and sandblasted surfaces as well, adding to the mesmerising complexity and depth of the calibre.
This obsession with juxtaposition extends even to the gun-metal plated hands, which feature a shielded and an arrow. Both of which, along with the indices, are coated in Super-Luminova for superior legibility, even in the dark.
Speaking of which, legibility can often be an issue in many skeletonised dials, but this was never an issue with the Independence Skeleton Chrono. The white filled-in hands and markers, along with the distinct shapes of the hands made timekeeping a breeze.
The purple accents that invade the dial complemented the overarching gunmetal tone of the watch well—subtle enough not to overwhelm yet striking enough to support that air of mystery created by the black and varied surfaces. In fact, with its brooding purple-and-black colourway, dare I say the watch looks like something Chadwick Boseman might’ve rocked in a Black Panther film?
The all-purple rubber strap felt great on my wrists, it’s one of those watches that doesn’t take much time to break in and get used to. By the third day, there were moments when I forgot I was even wearing a watch—though this could also be attributed to its lightweight design. This level of comfort surprised me, especially as someone with smaller wrists. While the dial might give the illusion of bulk and jankiness, the watch never felt cumbersome.
The only gripe I’d have would be the lack of flexibility in strap options. I thought the purple strap might’ve played too much into the colour, so I would have appreciated the option of a black rubber strap as well. A steel variation of the watch is available, either with a strap or a bracelet, but these lack the purple accents that I adore.
Limited to just 300 pieces, the black titanium DLC Independence Skeleton Chrono with its purple accents manages to blend sportiness, practicality and artistry in a way few watches do. NORQAIN may be young, but based on what I’ve seen from the pristine craftsmanship involved in their watches, it wouldn’t surprise me if, one day, they become as tall and storied as the celestial beings that inspire their ethos.
Following the success of its pink-dialled sibling from 2024, TUDOR is injecting another burst of colour into its iconic Black Bay Chrono lineup. The new "Flamingo Blue" channels the spirit of South Beach into a sophisticated sports watch, manifested in the form of a turquoise dial.
While flamingos themselves aren't blue, the dial's distinctive turquoise hue evokes the tropical waters where these birds inhibit—bright skies, shimmering lagoons, and the kind of carefree energy that comes with the imagery. The 41mm chronograph maintains the Black Bay's signature design elements, including the iconic "Snowflake" hands—a Tudor diving watch hallmark since 1969—and a domed dial with two contrasting black sub-counters. Paying homage to TUDOR’s first chronographs from 1970, the layout includes a 45-minute counter and a date window neatly positioned at 6 o’clock.
But don’t be fooled by its playful look—the Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" is as serious as they come. At its core lies the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, a high-performance automatic movement featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch. The chronograph movement, derived from Breitling's B01 calibre but enhanced with TUDOR’s own regulating organ and exclusive finishes, offers a robust 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification that qualifies for everything from adventurous pursuits to day-to-day wear. The watch can also reach depths of up to 200 meters, living up to its sun-soaked aesthetic.
A fixed bezel with a tachymetric scale adds a dash of motorsport flair, harking back to the 1970s Oysterdate chronographs that cemented TUDOR’s connection to the racing world. Yet, the Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" doesn’t overplay its sporty side. Instead, it strikes a careful balance between the racetrack and boardwalk—perfect for the massive market of collectors who love drag racing and long walks on the beach.
Then there’s the bracelet. TUDOR’s five-link stainless steel bracelet with the T-fit clasp might not steal headlines, but it deserves praise. Offering five adjustment positions within an 8mm range, the rapid adjustment clasp requires no tool, allowing wearers to tweak the fit on the fly. The ceramic ball bearings ensure a smooth, secure closure while adding a subtle tactile pleasure to each adjustment.
The Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" isn’t a watch for those looking to fade into the background. It’s a statement piece that merges heritage with personality, embracing the boldness and individuality of Miami. Practicality? That depends on who you ask. But for those who believe that individuality can coexist with style, this is a watch that fits in anywhere—and yet stands out everywhere.
If someone handed me a pen and asked me to sketch the most majestic, elegant, and imperial-looking watch I could imagine, I wouldn’t—frankly, because I can’t draw. But if I were to describe it, it would probably look something like this Datograph Handwerkskunst from A. Lange & Söhne.
Hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap, a deployant buckle, a case made from 18-karat yellow gold contrasted by a black-rhodiumed dial, Roman numeral-inspired indices, an intricate movement composed of 426 parts, and a flyback chronograph. This is A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Handwerkskunst, a timepiece so dreamy it had me daydreaming of hypothetical situations. The features highlighted would typically be touted as the key selling points of any watch, but I haven’t even touched on the most interesting aspects of this one yet.
Comprising of 426 parts and 43 jewels, the Lange manufacture calibre L951.8 is a manually wound movement that aptly represents the pinnacle of A. Lange & Söhne’s meticulousness and artistry. Assembled and decorated entirely by hand, the calibre’s architecture features black-polished chronograph levers. This rare, time-consuming technique causes the surface to reflect light only from specific angles, appearing jet black at times, and glossy at others. The hand-engraved balance cock, adorned with a delicate vine motif, rises subtly from the surface, setting the mood for the rest of the movement. The untreated German silver plates and bridges contribute to a sense of organic growth within the movement. Would it be remiss to suggest that the overall architecture of the movement is reminiscent of intertwining vines? You can be the judge of that by examining the caseback, where every polish, grain, and engravement is showcased, revealing the hard work of the artisans’.
This movement powers a 60-hour power reserve and a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minute counter, allowing for seamless resets and efficient timing adjustments. The outsize date display, a signature of the house creates an elegant symmetry so pleasing it could bring tears to Leonardo da Vinci’s eye. All this can be adjusted through a crown for winding and setting, two chronograph buttons, and a button for rapid correction of the outsize date.
Immediately, the surface of the black-rhodiumed dial is what draws eyes. Brought to life by an intricate tremblage engraving—a historical technique practised by very few artisans due to the years of training required—it creates a fine-grained, 3D texture that captures and reflects light in subtle ways, lending the 41mm timepiece a certain air of mystery rarely seen in modern watchmaking.
As the eighth model in A. Lange & Söhne's special HANDWERKSKUNST series, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, but it makes sense. I’ll let Anthony de Haas, Director Product Development explain, “Manually executed with the highest degree of precision, the decorations and finishing exhibit aesthetics that no machine in the whole world could possibly achieve.”
TAG Heuer's frequent collaborations with Porsche have made the two brands nearly synonymous. Given its name, I initially assumed the TAG Heuer Carrera series was probably an existing collaboration with Porsche. I later discovered that the name “Carrera” really originated from the legendary Carrera Panamericana Road Race in Mexico, once considered the most demanding and dangerous road race in the world. With such high expectations to live up to, it makes sense why the Carrera timepieces are renowned for their durability and performance in the motorsports world. TAG Heuer is now reimagining its Carrera Extreme Sport series with the introduction of two striking new models, a chronograph and a tourbillon variation.
The new models in the series share a cohesive design in its DNA, featuring integrated rubber straps inspired by the air intake systems of racing cars. The redesigned case, now reduced in diameter, integrates a single container with two barrels on the side. Its skeletonised dial is accentuated with bold black lines that remind the eyes of a car’s rim, while the dial disk has been redesigned to include an open-worked date disc. Both the hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility even during those late-night drives.
Leading the lineup is the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, which boasts a 44mm grade-2 titanium case, available in four distinct colourways. The vibrant orange colourway draws inspiration from the heat of the racetrack, while the blue variant pays homage to TAG Heuer’s signature colour. For those with a more refined taste, there's a monochromatic black option. The final chronograph combines titanium, ceramic, and 18K 5N rose gold for a look that feels both luxurious and sporty. The engine powering the watch is the TH20-00 in-house caliber, which delivers an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, on the other hand, feels like the more sophisticated sibling of the two. Powered by the TH20-09 in-house caliber, this model offers a shorter power reserve at 65-hours but a vertical clutch and column wheel propels a bidirectional automatic rewinding system. This allows the watch to wind efficiently with minimal movement and ensures a longer lifespan by evenly distributing wear and tear across its components.
Coming in similarly at a leaner 44mm case, two striking variations will be on offer: a sleek all-black and luxurious gold and titanium version. The black model features a forged carbon tachymeter bezel, known for its scratch resistance, and rhodium-plated indices for enhanced reflectivity. Conversely, the gold and titanium version showcases an 18K 5N rose gold case and bezel, fortified with a black DLC-coated titanium container. Its indices are rose gold plated, striking a delicate balance between elegance and masculinity. Both versions feature a skeletonised dial that reveals the complexity of the tourbillon and movement that delivers a water resistance of up to 100 metres.
You'd probably find it odd holding a Bvlgari Aluminium for the first time. You heft it in your hands, unsure of its weight. It’s undeniably metal, but the light, cool, matte aluminium feels unlike any watch you’ve encountered. Then there is the rubber bracelet, each supple piece of rubber linking to the next, softly swivelling on partially exposed joints. You can’t quite put a finger on its design either—is it a sporty watch? Contemporary? You'd wager it’d look equally at home paired with a suit though. The Bvlgari Aluminium is complex, avant-garde even, but it’s a haute horlogerie affair, and this one is unmistakably Bvlgari.
It’s 1998, Bvlgari, a titan of luxury, just revealed its latest collection—a luxury watch line made from two heretical materials: aluminium, a material typically relegated to soda cans, and, well, rubber. It was a defiant move that sent shockwaves rippling through the realm of haute horlogerie. Little did Bvlgari know, this one step would propel the brand into the future, and it was dragging the entire watchmaking industry along with it, whether they liked it or not. Just ask what Apple thinks of aluminium watches.
Having received acclaim as an iconic watch at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2020, Bvlgari finally took its celebrated timepiece out of its award case and unveiled the second generation in the same year. The Bvlgari Aluminium returns in 2024 with three new models—a black GMT model, an emerald green chronograph, and a white automatic version—and they’re arriving with upgrades.
While each differs in capabilities, all three variations share a hallmark: the unabashed “BVLGARI • BVLGARI” signature carved around the 40mm watch face—its stirring arrogance inspired by the names of past Roman emperors stamped on coins, subdued by the black velvety surface of the rubber bezel. Born out of FKM rubber—a notoriously durable material in watchmaking—its bracelet features rectangular rubber blocks held together by pivoting aluminium links. This ensures a perfect drape on your wrist, providing an airy feel absent in most rubber straps while eliminating that clingy grip on sportier days. Though powered by different calibres, all three watches have a power reserve of 42 hours and water resistance of 100m.
As the only watch widely available in the collection, the Bvlgari Aluminium Black GMT builds upon its predecessors by introducing a Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) function, flaunting its capacity for dual-time zone capabilities. This serves as a homage to the inception of the Bvlgari Aluminium when it was brazenly printed onto the fuselage of an Alitalia Boeing 747, which, of course, shared a material common between them: aluminium. Speaking of which, Bvlgari has developed an alloy of aluminium designed to be more durable than the original 1998 collection. Set against an off-white dial, the black hands with luminous sword ends stretch towards the indices surrounded by a colour-coded GMT function with red representing day and black for night. Nestled deeper lies the Calibre B192, a self-winding mechanical movement that allows adjustments for seconds, minutes, hours, GMT hands, and the date to be made through the watch’s single crown.
In a nod to its Italian heritage, the limited-edition Chronograph Smeraldo draws inspiration from the alluring island of Capri. The name of the game is la dolce vita: picture yourself at the heart of Capri, wading in the turquoise water of the Marina Grande. The sand, so fine it feels like powdered sugar squishing between your toes. As you venture deeper, the water deepens just enough to lap at your calves. The water shimmering like shattered gemstones, an impossible emerald so vivid it seems to hold the entire sky itself captive. Here, you feel only the sun on your skin, the cool embrace of the water, and you let the breeze carry your soul into the ocean.
This scene is brought to life in the Chronograph Smeraldo that’s limited to just 1,000 pieces. Now, let’s talk design. Dark green dominates here, unifying the bezel and rubber bracelet to form a cohesive theme. Dark green hands sweep across a gradient dial, transitioning from white to turquoise—a reflection of the Capri coastline. The chronograph counters echo the same palette, hammering home the elegance and essence of an Italian summer. Just as the sun's energy fuels life on Earth, the automatic B130 mechanical movement powers the chronograph and date function of the watch. An engraving of the compass rose adorns the aluminium caseback, ready to rest flush against skin.
The White Automatic completes the 2024 Bvlgari Aluminium trilogy, embodying a blend of minimalist elegance and unflinching boldness, while capturing whispers of the Colosseum’s grandeur all at once. Perhaps the most striking piece in the collection, this limited edition watch evokes the spirit of '90s Bvlgari being draped in all white, mirroring the brand’s audacity back in 1998 during its initial release. The inspiration from ancient Roman coins is magnified by a sleek, one-toned aluminium white dial, creating an honest canvas that complements the splash of red added by the seconds hand. Rhodium-plated indexes and hands treated with Super-LumiNova® only add to the grandeur. Legibility is close to perfection with this timepiece, featuring the classic Bvlgari touch of a 12 and 6, and a clean date display at 3 o’clock. The White Automatic owes its soul to the Calibre B77, the reliable automatic mechanical movement that energised its predecessors.
From the functionality of the Black GMT to the Italian charm of the Chronograph Smeraldo and the minimalist Roman grandeur of the White Automatic, each Bvlgari Aluminium is a conversation starter. On its own, it's a watch that serves as a statement, a bold declaration that luxury can be redefined, that elegance can be found in the unexpected. But on your wrist, it’s a watch that not only speaks for itself as a symbol of supreme confidence in one's own artistry, but also one that undoubtedly screams Bvlgari, Bvlgari.
